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| Legend Zhu was the conventional ideal of Chinese beauty. Tall with shoulder-length hair, she led her university’s modeling team, whose members were often called upon to strut down runways at campus fashion shows wearing body-hugging dresses and dramatic eye makeup. | 莱金德·朱（音）是传统意义上的中国美女。身材高挑、长发齐肩的她是大学模特队的领队，这些模特经常被要求穿着紧身裙装，化着夸张的眼妆，在校园时装秀的T台上走秀。 |
| A recent college graduate, Ms. Zhu has attracted attention for her appearance once again, but in a far different way. Over the summer, she took to Xiaohongshu, a Chinese social media platform known for its lifestyle influencers, to post a selfie with buzz-cut hair and a cosmetic-free face. | 从大学毕业后不久，莱金德·朱的外貌再次引发了关注，但原因却与之前截然不同。今年夏天，她在以生活方式网红而闻名的中国社交媒体平台“小红书”上发了一张超短发素颜自拍照。 |
| “From a model to a natural woman,” Ms. Zhu wrote in the post, which also included “before” images from her modeling days. “It feels so comfortable!” | “从model（译注：模特）成为自然女，”莱金德·朱在帖子中写道，还附上了自己模特生涯中“变身前”的照片。“好舒服！” |
| Ms. Zhu’s image received more than 1,000 likes and many compliments. She was also applauded for her defiance of the pressure on women to conform to traditional beauty standards. “This is so brave,” one comment said. | 莱金德·朱的照片收获了1000多次点赞和大量赞美。人们还称赞她不畏压力，勇于反抗传统的审美标准。“这也太勇敢了，”一条评论写道。 |
| Bravery is necessary because the online approbation for Ms. Zhu’s new look is only part of the story. There were negative comments, too, which she deleted. | 鼓起勇气是有必要的，因为网上对莱金德·朱新造型的认可并不是故事全貌。负面评论也是有的，她都给删除了。 |
| Anything connected to feminism can be a delicate subject in China. The nation’s Communist Party has long promoted gender equality as one of its core tenets, but it is wary of grass-roots organizing. Women making feminist statements online often face abuse and sometimes have their social media accounts deleted for “gender discrimination.” Those who have complained about sexual mistreatment by powerful men have lost in court or been pressured into silence. | 在中国，任何与女权有关的事都可能是敏感话题。中国共产党长期宣称性别平等是其核心原则之一，但对民间组织十分警惕。在网上发表女权言论的女性总会遭到羞辱，有时她们的社交媒体账户也会以“性别歧视”为由遭到删除。遭受权势男性不端性行为对待的女性要么在法庭上败诉，要么被迫保持沉默。 |
| Awareness of such problems is growing among young women in China, especially college-educated ones, said Leta Hong Fincher, the author of “Leftover Women: The Resurgence of Gender Inequality in China.” Sex discrimination in university admissions and in the job market has prompted some young women to resist gender roles, including those connected to appearance, Ms. Fincher said. | 《剩女：中国性别不平等死灰复燃》(Leftover Women: The Resurgence of Gender Inequality in China)一书的作者洪理达(Leta Hong Fincher)表示，中国的年轻女性——特别是受过大学教育的群体——对这些问题的认识正在加强。她说，大学招生和职场中的性别歧视促使部分年轻女性抵制性别角色分工，包括那些与外表有关的规范。 |
| Ms. Zhu, 23, is among a number of young women inspired by a growing trend of rejecting what is known in Chinese internet parlance as “beauty duty”: the costly and sometimes painful devotion to mainstream notions of attractiveness. The idea is to spend time and resources not on beauty standards, but on personal development, including education and career growth. | 大批年轻女性受到了一种日益兴起的趋势的鼓舞，即拒绝中国互联网上所谓的“服美役”，23岁的莱金德·朱就是其中一员。“服美役”即为追求主流定义中的魅力而付出高昂、有时堪称痛苦的代价。而这些女性的理念是，不应把时间和资源花在达成美丽的标准之上，而要投入到个人发展之中，这包括接受教育和职业成长。 |
| “To stay beautiful, you need to constantly invest time, money and energy,” Ms. Zhu said. “Most men are free of this. It is unfair.” | “为了保持美，得不停地投入时间、金钱和精力去维持美丽，”莱金德·朱。“但我发现大部分的男生是没有这方面（困扰）的。我就觉得很不公平。” |
| Women subscribing to this idea are also refusing to starve themselves, shunning the dangerous diet culture that has underpinned popular internet challenges, such as one involving a piece of A4 paper held vertically at the user’s midsection to try to obscure the waist. Only the slenderest can be completely hidden by an 8.3-inch-wide sheet of paper. | 认同这一理念的女性也拒绝让自己挨饿，回避危险的节食文化，那已经成为热门互联网挑战的主题，例如要用户将一张A4纸垂直放在腹部，试图用其遮挡腰部。只有最纤瘦的腰才能被一张21厘米宽的纸完全遮住。 |
| Ms. Zhu said that when she was in college in Beijing and considering a career in the fashion industry, a modeling agency advised her to lose at least 22 pounds, down to 110. At 5 feet 10 inches tall, she found this unreasonable: “I could not imagine the harm to my body.” | 莱金德·朱说，她还在北京读大学并考虑进入时尚行业发展时，一家模特经纪公司建议她至少减掉20斤体重，瘦到100斤。身高1米77的她感到不可理喻：“我不太敢想身体会遭受到什么样的伤害。” |
| She decided to enter a postgraduate program in urban planning instead. | 她决定转而攻读城市规划专业的研究生文凭。 |
| When Annie Xie, a woman in the northern city of Qinhuangdao, was in middle school, she began wearing makeup and colored contact lenses and dieted to fit into size 0 dresses. | 北方城市秦皇岛的安妮·谢（音）从中学时期就开始化妆戴美瞳，并为了穿上最小号的裙子节食。 |
| At 15, she was hospitalized for anorexia nervosa. That was when she started to look inward and was inspired by a classic of feminism, “The Second Sex” by Simone de Beauvoir. Reading its famous sentence “One is not born, but becomes a woman,” she said, felt “like a lightning strike.” | 15岁那年，她因神经性厌食症入院接受治疗。那之后，她开始审视内心，并大受西蒙娜·德·波伏娃的女性主义经典著作《第二性》(The Second Sex)的启发。“女人不是生来就是女人，而是被后天塑造成女人的，”她说看完感觉“像被雷击中了一样”。 |
| Feminist theories, Ms. Xie said, helped her free herself from obsessing about appearance. Now 23 and preparing to move overseas, she has stopped dieting, wears loosefitting clothes and no makeup, and often eschews a bra. | 安妮·谢说女性主义理论帮她摆脱了对外在的痴迷。现年23岁的她正准备移居海外，她不再节食，穿着宽松的衣服，不化妆也经常不穿胸罩。 |
| In Western countries, feminists have been calling out patriarchal attitudes for decades. But in many East Asian nations, where traditional gender expectations linger even amid rapid economic and technological growth, the rejection of narrow definitions of beauty is often regarded as radical. | 在西方国家，女权主义者数十年来都在对父权思想大声疾呼。但在许多东亚国家，即便在经济和科技快速发展的环境中，传统的性别期望依然存在，拒绝对美的狭隘定义往往被视为激进之举。 |
| In Japan, women have started a movement to fight workplace dress codes that require them to wear high heels. And in South Korea, women have challenged the country’s deep-rooted, rigid beauty culture with a campaign known as “Escape the Corset.” | 日本女性发起了一场运动，反对要求她们在工作场合必须穿高跟鞋的着装规范。韩国女性掀起了“脱下束身衣”运动，挑战了该国根深蒂固且约束重重的美容文化。 |
| In China, capitalism, and the prosperity it brought to China, has in some ways increased pressure on women to look good. The cosmetics and skin care market exceeded $69 billion last year, according to iResearch, a consulting firm. | 在中国，资本主义及其带来的繁荣在某种程度上导致女性追求外在美的压力变得更大。艾瑞咨询公司的数据显示，去年中国的化妆品和护肤品市场规模超过690亿美元。 |
| State propaganda that promotes traditional gender norms, urging women to marry young and have babies, also pushes beauty standards. “So women who rebel against traditional beauty norms are viewed by the government as being more likely to rebel in other ways as well,” Ms. Fincher said. | 国家的思想灌输提倡传统性别规范，敦促女性早婚早育，也缩窄了定义美的标准。“因此，政府会认为那些反抗传统审美的女性也更有可能以其他方式进行反抗，”洪理达说。 |
| Zelda Liu, a 27-year-old woman from the southeastern city of Suzhou, said that when she decided to get a buzz cut, she had to do it herself. Hairdressers hesitated, worrying that the close shave would hurt her scalp — a notion she found absurd: “Are female heads not heads?” | 来自东南部城市苏州的27岁女性泽尔达·刘（音）说，当她决定剪短头发，她必须亲自动手。理发师都很犹豫，担心剃得太短会伤到她的头皮——她觉得这个理由很荒谬：“女人的头就不是头了吗？” |
| More than a year later, she is still sporting the cut and says it has meant she no longer gets unsolicited male attention or suggestions that she put on makeup. She describes the newfound freedom as a sense of “flying high.” She is also now living abroad. | 一年多过去了，她仍然留着这个发型，她说这意味着自己不再收到不请自来的男性关注或化妆建议。她将这种新获得的自由形容为“爽飞了”。她现在也居住在国外。 |
| Ms. Xie, the woman from Qinhuangdao, said a former boyfriend said that she had “given up” on herself. “I think it is ridiculous,” she said. “I don’t want to go back to the way things were before.” | 来自秦皇岛的安妮·谢说，一位前男友曾评价她“堕落”了。“我觉得很可笑，”她说。“我再也不想回到以前那个样子了。” |
| Not all of the backlash comes from men. Some women have argued on social media that women who subscribe to conventional beauty norms should not be made to feel bad. | 也不是所有反对的声音都出自男性之口。有女性在社交媒体上辩称，不应该让遵循传统审美标准的女性感到不适。 |
| Women who reject such norms often regard other women who disagree with them as not being progressive enough, said Fiona Chen, a feminist influencer in China. But their criticism, she argued, should be focused on the real reason that expectations are unfair. | 中国女性主义网络名人菲奥娜·陈（音）表示，拒绝服从这些规范的女性往往认为其他不认同她们观点的女性不够进步。但她认为，这些批评应当关注的是性别期待之所以不公的本质原因。 |
| “Its root cause is not women,” she said. “It is the patriarchy.” | “它的病根不在女人身上，”她说，“是父权制。” |
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