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| In the gloom of China’s economy, one area of business is booming: cosmetics. |
| 在中国经济低迷之际，化妆品行业却在蓬勃发展。 |
| After enduring nearly three years of mandatory masks and frequent lockdowns during the pandemic, many Chinese consumers, wary of big-ticket purchases like apartments, are now splurging on lipstick, perfume, moisturizers and other personal care products. |
| 经历了近三年的强制口罩令和疫情期间频繁的封锁之后，许多中国消费者对房子等大宗商品的购买持谨慎态度，眼下却在口红、香水、保湿霜等个人护理产品上大肆挥霍。 |
| But cosmetics companies from France, Japan, South Korea and the United States, which have invested heavily in China, are missing out on a lot of the action. |
| 但是，在中国大举投资的法国、日本、韩国和美国的化妆品公司却错过了很多机会。 |
| As China’s cosmetics companies are booming, imports of cosmetics are wilting under regulations that the country imposed on foreign manufacturers during the pandemic. |
| 在中国化妆品企业蓬勃发展的同时，进口化妆品因疫情期间中国对外国制造商实施的规定而萎靡不振。 |
| While China’s trade conflicts with the West over semiconductors pivot on national security and technological innovation, the dispute over cosmetics is largely about money. |
| 中国与西方在半导体领域的贸易冲突主要围绕国家安全和技术创新展开，而化妆品领域的争端则主要与金钱有关。 |
| “I’m not talking about peanuts,” said Bruno Le Maire, France’s finance minister. “For many French companies,” he added, China “represents between 30 and 35 percent of their total revenues.” |
| “我说的不是什么小钱，”法国财政部长布鲁诺·勒梅尔表示。“对许多法国公司来说，中国占它们总收入的30%到35%。” |
| During a visit to China last month, Gina M. Raimondo, the U.S. commerce secretary, said the United States wanted to expand its exports of personal care products. “No one can argue that health and beauty aids interfere in our national security,” Ms. Raimondo said. |
| 在上个月访华期间，美国商务部长雷蒙多表示，美国希望扩大个人护理产品的出口。雷蒙多说：“没有人会说健康和美容用品会影响我们的国家安全。” |
| Under rules that China introduced in 2021, companies must divulge every ingredient in their products and the precise quantities used. They must upload to a Chinese database the addresses of all ingredient suppliers as well as where the ingredients are assembled. Foreign companies fear that divulging those details could allow low-cost Chinese manufacturers to copy their products. |
| 根据中国2021年出台的规定，企业必须披露产品中的每种成分及精确用量。他们必须将所有原料供应商的地址及成分的组装地点上传到一个中文数据库。外国公司担心，泄露这些细节可能会让低成本的中国制造商抄袭他们的产品。 |
| One of the most contested Chinese mandates is that many products, such as hair dyes or sun creams, must be tested on live animals before they can be sold to Chinese consumers — a practice that many global cosmetics companies have stopped. |
| 中国最具争议的一项规定是，染发剂或防晒霜等许多产品在出售给中国消费者之前，必须在活体动物身上进行测试——许多全球化妆品公司已经停止了这种做法。 |
| “It’s not only the requirements that are onerous but the timelines under which things need to be done — they are unrealistically short,” said Gerald Renner, the director of technical regulatory affairs at Cosmetics Europe, an industry association. |
| 行业协会欧洲化妆品协会的技术监管事务主管杰拉尔德·伦纳表示：“不仅要求苛刻，而且工作完成的时限也短得不切实际。” |
| Big companies like LVMH or L’Oréal have the resources to meet the regulatory demands. But some smaller players are pausing sales to China until there is a less time intensive and expensive way to meet the requirements. |
| 像LVMH或欧莱雅这样的大公司有足够的资源来满足监管要求。但一些规模较小的公司暂停了对中国的销售，直到能找到耗时较短、成本较低的方式来满足要求。 |
| Led by the French government, the European Union and 11 cosmetics-exporting nations, including the United States and Japan, are pushing China this year to repeal many of the requirements. President Emmanuel Macron of France raised the issue with China’s leaders during his visit to the country in April. Mr. Le Maire pressed it again when he visited Beijing in July, saying the concerns had been “at the core of discussions” with his Chinese counterparts. |
| 在法国政府领导下，欧盟和包括美国和日本在内的11个化妆品出口国今年正在敦促中国废除其中的许多规定。法国总统马克龙在4月访华期间向中国领导人提出了这个问题。勒梅尔在7月访问北京时再次强调了这一点，称这些担忧一直是与中国同行“讨论的核心”。 |
| Mr. Le Maire said he and Vice Premier He Lifeng of China had agreed to set up a working group to create common standards that would meet in Paris before the end of this year. But there is no guarantee that talks will resolve the dispute. |
| 勒梅尔说，他和中国副总理何立峰已同意成立一个工作组，制定共同标准，并将于今年年底前在巴黎举行会议。但没有人能保证谈判能解决争端。 |
| China is the second-largest beauty market in the world, trailing only the United States. Yet doing business there has long been difficult for foreign companies. |
| 中国是仅次于美国的世界第二大美容市场。然而，长期以来，外国公司在华开展业务一直困难重重。 |
| For decades, China mandated animal tests for most cosmetics, even for those that had been proven safe and sold by brands elsewhere. Brands either quietly tested their products on animals in China or gave up on their imports. |
| 几十年来，中国要求对大多数化妆品进行动物试验，即使是那些已被证明安全、在其他地方销售的品牌也不例外。品牌要么悄悄在中国使用动物测试其产品，要么放弃进口。 |
| China dropped the animal test requirements a decade ago for many products made in China and, in 2021, for imported cosmetics that do not make health claims. |
| 十年前，中国对国产化妆品取消了动物试验要求，2021年，对不做健康声明的进口化妆品也取消了动物实验要求。 |
| But China still requires animal testing for “special cosmetics,” which include products with sunscreen or antiperspirant as well as products like hair dye or skin lightener. According to Jason Baker, senior vice president for PETA Asia, these animal tests include forcing animals to swallow or inhale a test substance or applications to their skin or eyes. Rabbits, guinea pigs and mice are most commonly used. |
| 但中国仍然要求对“特殊化妆品”进行动物试验，其中包括防晒或止汗产品，以及染发或美白产品。据善待动物组织亚洲高级副总裁杰森·贝克说，这些动物试验包括强迫动物吞咽或吸入测试物质，或将测试物质涂抹在动物的皮肤或眼睛上。兔子、豚鼠和小鼠是最常用的动物。 |
| Michelle Thew, the chief executive of Cruelty Free International, an advocacy group, added that China topped the list of countries using animals in testing and research for a variety of purposes — about 20 million animals annually — followed far behind by Japan and the United States. |
| 倡导组织“无虐待国际”的首席执行官米歇尔·休补充说，中国在以各种目的使用动物进行实验和研究的国家中排名第一，每年大约使用2000万只动物，接下来是日本和美国，但远远小于这个数字。 |
| The international beauty and personal care industry supports efforts to reduce animal testing for products sold in China, for both domestic and foreign manufacturers. Unilever, which makes Dove and Vaseline and owns the Dermalogica skin care brand, said it had been working with academics and the Chinese authorities to phase out the need for imported cosmetics to undergo animal testing. |
| 国际美容和个人护理行业支持减少国内外制造商对中国销售产品的动物试验。生产多芬和凡士林、拥有Dermalogica护肤品牌的联合利华表示，该公司一直在与学术界和中国当局合作，逐步取消进口化妆品进行动物试验的要求。 |
| “The move from animal testing to paper-based risk assessments is undoubtedly a positive one,” said Carl Westmoreland, the director of the Unilever safety and environmental assurance center. “There might be more paperwork involved, but we see it as a big step forward.” |
| “从动物试验转向基于纸张的风险评估无疑是一个积极的举措，”联合利华安全和环境保证中心主任卡尔·威斯特摩兰说。 “可能会涉及更多的文书工作，但我们认为这是向前迈出的一大步。” |
| The Chinese government’s regulatory agency, the National Medical Products Administration, did not respond to a list of questions faxed on Aug. 8. The foreign ministry declined to address the issue. |
| 中国政府的监管机构国家药品监督管理局没有回应8月8日传真过去的一系列问题。中国外交部拒绝回答这个问题。 |
| Recent statistics show how rapidly foreign cosmetics companies have lost market share to domestic competitors in China. Retail sales of cosmetics in China in the first half of the year rose 8.7 percent from the first half of 2022. But overall imports fell 13.7 percent. |
| 最近的统计数据显示，外国化妆品公司在华市场份额正迅速被国内竞争对手夺走。今年上半年，中国化妆品零售额比2022年上半年增长了8.7%。但整体进口下降了13.7%。 |
| The difference between the rising sales and the shrinking imports reflected gains for factories in China, many of which are owned by Chinese companies. Proya Cosmetics, based in Hangzhou, reported a 35 percent increase in sales in the first half of this year compared with a year earlier. |
| 销售增长与进口萎缩之间的差异反映了中国工厂的收益，其中许多工厂为中国公司所有。总部位于杭州的珀莱雅化妆品公司报告称，今年上半年的销售额同比增长了35%。 |
| “There is a rising acceptance of domestic brands,” said Chris Gao, a China cosmetics analyst at CLSA, a brokerage and investment firm in Hong Kong. |
| “越来越多的人接受国产品牌，”香港经纪和投资公司里昂证券的中国化妆品分析师克里斯·高（音）说。 |
| While LVMH and L’Oréal said they were seeing growth in their China sales, both declined to comment on the shrinking imports. |
| 尽管LVMH和欧莱雅表示，它们在中国的销售额有所增长，但都拒绝就中国的进口量下降置评。 |
| China’s customs data shows that imports of cosmetics, toiletries and perfumes from France to China, which reached $5.4 billion last year, were down 6.2 percent in the first half of this year from a year earlier. Cosmetics imports from South Korea and the United States were down 22.2 percent and 19.8 percent. |
| 中国海关数据显示，去年中国从法国进口的化妆品、洗漱用品和香水达到54亿美元，今年上半年同比下降6.2%。从韩国和美国进口的化妆品分别下降了22.2%和19.8%。 |
| A crackdown by the authorities on traders in the duty-free hub of Hainan has also hit beauty sales for international players like La Prairie and Shiseido. Beyond the regulatory red tape, some foreign companies may be importing less because they already have a backlog of products in China. |
| 当局对海南免税店贸易商的打击也影响了莱珀妮和资生堂等国际品牌的美容产品销售。除了监管方面的繁文缛节，一些外国公司进口减少可能是因为它们在中国已经积压了大量产品。 |
| While China’s duty-free stores work through the glut on their shelves, homegrown beauty brands are growing in popularity. According to data from Euromonitor International, a market research company, Chinese-born beauty brands have grown significantly in the past three years, making up 27 percent of the skin care and makeup retail sales among the top 10 brands. |
| 当中国的免税店忙于处理货架上的过剩商品时，本土美容品牌越来越受欢迎。根据市场研究公司欧睿国际的数据，在过去三年里，中国本土的美容品牌增长显著，在护肤品和化妆品零售销售额排名前十的品牌中占27%。 |
| And China is expected to only keep growing as a market. By 2027, the consulting firm McKinsey estimates, China will account for around one-sixth of global beauty retail sales. |
| 预计中国的市场还会继续增长。咨询公司麦肯锡估计，到2027年，中国将占全球美容产品零售额的六分之一左右。 |
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