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| Seen from the sky, the Demilitarized Zone, or DMZ, looks like a gigantic geographical wound across the Korean Peninsula, the continuous wire fences snaking up the hills and down the valleys from coast to coast. |
| 非军事区是一个用延绵的铁丝网在山顶和山谷间蜿蜒隔出、从东到西将朝鲜半岛一分为二的地带。从空中看，它像是一条横跨朝鲜半岛的巨大地理伤口。 |
| It was created 70 years ago on Thursday, when an armistice was signed by the American-led United Nations Command and the North Korean and Chinese militaries at the “truce village” of Panmunjom, putting an end to the fighting, but not the Korean War itself. |
| 非军事区是70年前的今天设立的。那天，由美国领导的联合国军司令部与朝鲜和中国军队在板门店“停战村”签署了停战协定。熄灭的是战火，朝鲜战争本身并未结束。 |
| The DMZ was meant to be a temporary buffer zone, dividing a warring nation. Instead, it has hardened into the world’s most heavily armed frontier, embodying not only an unfinished military confrontation but also what little hope remains for peace and reunification between the two Koreas. |
| 设立非军事区的原意是用一个临时缓冲区将朝鲜半岛交战的双方隔开。但它却变成了世界上戒备最森严的分界线，不仅是军事对抗尚未结束的具体表现，也是朝鲜半岛和平统一希望渺茫的象征。 |
| Along this 155-mile stretch, soldiers stand ready to engage on either side. Families cope with decades of separation. Tourists come to witness living history. And dreams of reconciliation have slowly faded into the distance. |
| 这条长240公里边界线两侧的士兵们随时准备交战。被界线分离的家庭已经几十年不能团聚。游客们来这里见证活生生的历史。朝鲜半岛和解的梦想已经渐行渐远。 |
| An Unresolved Conflict |
| 一场未解决的冲突 |
| Over the last seven decades, there have been attempts to breach the divide created by the DMZ, re-linking roads and railways across the border, allowing cross-border trade and investment and organizing reunions of separated families. |
| 在过去70年里，一直有尝试试图打破非军事区造成的鸿沟，例如将边界两侧的公路和铁路重新连接起来、允许跨界贸易和投资、为失散的家庭举办团聚活动。 |
| Such efforts have all eventually failed to create lasting peace, crumbling in the face of an unresolved conflict. |
| 面对一场未解决的冲突，这些努力最终以崩溃告终，未能创造持久的和平。 |
| Despite its name, the DMZ and its vicinity are armed to the teeth. |
| 尽管名为“非军事区”，但这个地带及其附近地区却武装到了牙齿。 |
| An estimated two million land mines are strewn inside the 2.5-mile-wide zone. Its northern and southern perimeters are sealed by layers of razor-wire fences reinforced with booby traps or electronic sensors. Armed guards monitor the fences at every 100 to 200 yards. |
| 据估计，这条宽为四公里的地带布有200万枚地雷。非军事区的朝鲜一边和韩国一边都用好几层带刺钢丝网封起来，还配有饵雷和电子传感器起到强化作用。每隔约100米或200米就有武装警卫监视着边界线。 |
| Every 10 yards along the South Korean fences are Claymore anti-personnel mines. All roads leading out of the DMZ are guarded by anti-tank obstacles. Behind them, two million troops stand ready for battle. |
| 沿韩国一边的铁丝网，每隔10米左右就有一枚克莱莫人员杀伤地雷。所有从非军事区出来的道路上都设有反坦克障碍物。在非军事区的两边，两百万大军严阵以待。 |
| Soon after the armistice was signed, POWs were exchanged at Panmunjom. But the border has since been sealed tight, with the military standoff between North and South Korea reaching ominous new heights in recent years. |
| 停战协定签署后不久，双方在板门店交换了战俘。但在那之后，边界线一直被严密封锁，朝韩军事对峙近年来已上升到让人不安的新高度。 |
| Enduring Wounds |
| 长久未愈的伤口 |
| If fighting were to recommence on the Korean Peninsula, North Korea said in June, it would “rapidly expand into a world war and a thermonuclear war unprecedented in the world.” |
| 朝鲜曾在今年6月说，如果朝鲜半岛重新爆发战火的话，它将“迅速扩大为世界大战和世界上前所未有的热核战争”。 |
| For Yoon Cheong-ja, 80, the fighting never ended. |
| 对现年80岁的尹清子（音）来说，战斗从未结束。 |
| Her son, Senior Chief Petty Officer Min Pyeong-gi, was among the 46 sailors killed when the South Korean navy ship Cheonan exploded in what the South said was an unprovoked North Korean torpedo attack in 2010. |
| 她的儿子、一级海军军士闵平智（音）是死于2010年韩国海军天安舰爆炸的46名水兵之一，韩国称爆炸是朝鲜鱼雷无端袭击造成的。 |
| “When my son died, my heart was torn into a thousand pieces,” said Ms. Yoon, who recently visited the western border waters where her son died. “No mother should lose her son like I did.” |
| “我儿子去世时，我的心碎了，”尹女士说，她最近去了儿子丧生的韩国西部边境水域。“哪个母亲都不该像我这样失去儿子。” |
| Families Divided |
| 家庭分离 |
| War-separated families make annual pilgrimages near the DMZ, the closest they can come to their long-lost homeland. |
| 居住在韩国一侧的离散家庭每年都来非军事区附近旅行，那里是距他们离开已久的故乡最近的地方。 |
| During major holidays, they perform Confucian family rituals, placing rice, fruit and dried fish on an altar and bowing toward their ancestors’ graves in the North. |
| 他们在重大节日时举行传统的家庭祭祀仪式，将米饭、水果和干鱼放在祭坛上，朝着位于非军事区北边的祖坟鞠躬。 |
| “When I die in the South, my children will lose the ties to their roots in the North,” said Hwang Bong-suk, 87, as she gazed at migrating birds flying over the DMZ on a recent afternoon. |
| “我死在韩国后，我的孩子们将与朝鲜的根基失去联系，”不久前的一个下午，87岁的黄凤淑（音）凝视着从非军事区上空飞过的候鸟说道。 |
| Her widowed mother took her North Korean family to the South in 1948, three years after Korea was liberated from Japanese colonial rule and divided into the pro-Soviet North and the pro-American South. |
| 1948年，她寡居的母亲带着家人从朝鲜来到韩国。三年前，朝鲜半岛从日本殖民统治下解放后被分割为亲苏联的朝鲜和亲美国的韩国。 |
| The family traveled in two groups to avoid suspicion. Ms. Hwang was 12 years old at the time. Her two older sisters stayed in the North. |
| 为了避免引起怀疑，一家人分别行动。黄女士当时12岁。她的两个姐姐留在了朝鲜。 |
| They never made it to the South. |
| 她们从未进入韩国。 |
| Their mother saved gifts for them, hoping to one day be reunited. |
| 母亲一直保留着给她们的礼物，希望有一天能团聚。 |
| During a recent boat ride to western border waters from which he could see North Korea through an afternoon haze, Choi Jong-dae, 87, remembered his homeland. “The older I get, the more I miss my hometown and my siblings in the North,” he said. |
| 不久前，现年87岁的崔钟大（音）乘船前往韩国西部边境水域，透过午后的薄雾远望朝鲜，回忆起故乡。“年纪越大，就越想念我的家乡和留在朝鲜的兄弟姐妹，”他说。 |
| “I have been to Russia, Mongolia, New York and South Africa,” added Mr. Choi, his voice shaking. “But I can’t visit my hometown, even though it’s so close it feels as if I could stretch my arm to touch it.” |
| “我去过俄罗斯、蒙古、纽约、南非，”崔先生声音颤抖地补充道。“但我不能回我的家乡，尽管它离我很近，仿佛伸手就能触摸到。” |
| On the other side of the border, families in the North have had to cope with more recent separations. |
| 在非军事区的另一边，朝鲜的家庭不得不面对更近的分离。 |
| Over the postwar decades, a score of North Koreans, mostly soldiers, have defected to the South through the DMZ, often leaving their families behind. |
| 在战后的数十年里，十几名朝鲜人（主要是士兵）穿越非军事区叛逃到韩国，他们的家人往往留在朝鲜。 |
| One of them, Ahn Chan-il, slipped through a North Korean fence while its high-voltage electricity was turned off. “Because of what I did, my family in the North was sent to a prison camp and is presumed dead,” said Mr. Ahn, who arrived in the South in 1979. “As long as I live, I won’t be able to forget them.” |
| 其中一个叫安灿一（音）的人趁着朝鲜一边的高压电源关闭的时候，越过了铁丝网。“因为我做的事情，我在朝鲜的家人被关进了劳改营，估计已经死了，”1979年叛逃韩国的安先生说。“只要我还活着，我就不会忘记他们。” |
| Kim Gang-yu, 27, another North Korean soldier, fled through the DMZ in 2016. |
| 现年27岁的金康宇（音）是2016年穿越非军事区逃出来的朝鲜士兵。 |
| At night, while their country fell into darkness for lack of electricity, North Korean border guards marveled at the blazing electric lights that lit up the South Korean border fences, Mr. Kim said. |
| 金先生说，夜幕降临后，由于缺电，非军事区朝鲜一边漆黑一片，驻守在那里的朝鲜边防军人对韩国一边照射在铁丝网上的耀眼灯光感到惊叹。 |
| “I realized I had finally made it to the South when its soldiers let me take a shower,” he said. “It was my first hot-water shower in years.” |
| “韩国士兵让我冲淋浴后，我意识到我终于进入了韩国，”他说。“那是我多年来第一次洗热水澡。” |
| Life Near the Zone |
| 非军事区附近的生活 |
| Though the DMZ is known as a desolate, unforgiving place, hardy people have settled nearby — or even inside — the zone. |
| 尽管人们认为非军事区是个荒凉、难以生存的地方，但仍有一些吃苦耐劳的人已在非军事区附近甚至里面住了下来。 |
| They cultivate land under the watchful eyes of border guards despite the potential for land mines. When fishing season comes, fishermen venture into dangerous waters near the border to catch croakers, blue crabs and octopus while warships provide protection. |
| 他们在边防士兵警惕的眼睛底下种庄稼，尽管土地下面可能埋着地雷。捕鱼季节到来时，渔民们冒着风险，到边境附近的危险水域捕捉黄鱼、蓝蟹、章鱼，军舰为他们提供保护。 |
| In recent years, northern counties of South Korea have become unlikely tourist destinations, attracting people drawn to the history of the DMZ. |
| 近年来，韩国北部的郡县出人意料地成为了旅游目的地，吸引着对非军事区历史感兴趣的游客们。 |
| In a coastal campsite just outside the eastern DMZ, families pitch tents only yards away from wire fences and military signs ask campers to report “suspicious persons, objects and vessels.” |
| 在离非军事区东边不远的一个海滩露营地，许多家庭在距离铁丝网只有几米远的地方搭起帐篷，附近的军事标志要求露营者报告“可疑人员、物体和船只”。 |
| A DMZ-themed motel on the campsite has rooms decorated with barbed wire on the wall. Visitors can enjoy museums and tours along the border. |
| 露营地内有一家以非军事区为主题的汽车旅馆，客房的墙壁上装饰着铁丝网。游客可以在边界线附近参观博物馆和游览。 |
| “If anything, I can now claim to have spent a night at the farthest north campsite in South Korea,” said Kim Pil-soo, 42, a recent visitor. Near his tent was a warning against “stray land mines.” |
| “如果说来这里有什么意思的话，我现在可以说，我在韩国最北边的露营地住过一夜，”最近来过这里的42岁的金必洙 （音）说。他的帐篷附近有一个“零星地雷”警告。 |
| Park Jin-woo, 42, took his son, Min-jae, 8, to the DMZ Museum after watching news about the war in Ukraine. “I wanted to show him that we Koreans also had difficult times and how terrible war can be,” he said. |
| 现年42岁的朴振宇（音）在看了有关俄乌战争的新闻后，带着八岁的儿子闵柱（音）参观了非军事区博物馆。“我想让儿子知道，朝鲜半岛的人民也经历过困难时期，战争是多么可怕，”他说。 |
| Dreams of Reconciliation |
| 和解的梦想 |
| On a recent hot afternoon, 80 people gathered at a pier near the western sea border along the DMZ. They watched an artist dance with a flag that featured a unified Korean Peninsula. |
| 最近一个炎热的下午，80人聚集在非军事区西部海上边界附近的一个码头。他们观看了手持代表朝鲜半岛统一旗帜的艺术家的舞蹈表演。 |
| They later sailed out to waters near the border while a South Korean Coast Guard ship trailed them from a distance. |
| 然后，他们乘船前往边界附近的水域，一艘韩国海岸警卫队的船只从远处尾随着他们。 |
| “We pray for unification!” they chanted, holding their hands together. “We pray for peace!” |
| “我们祈祷统一！”他们手拉手地高喊。“我们祈求和平！” |
| After nearly eight decades of living separated across the tightly sealed border, many South Koreans see reunification as a distant dream. Affinity toward North Koreans has grown weaker among younger generations who were born decades after the war and have no memory of what it was like to live in an undivided Korea. |
| 在严格封锁的边界两边度过了近80年的分离生活后，许多韩国人将朝鲜半岛的统一视为一个遥远的梦想。年轻一代对朝鲜人的亲近感越来越淡，他们出生在停战几十年后，对于生活在一个完整的朝鲜半岛是什么样子，完全没有记忆。 |
| The youth are more preoccupied with domestic concerns, like dwindling job opportunities and the rising cost of living. |
| 年轻人更关心韩国国内的问题，例如就业机会减少，生活成本上升。 |
| Kim Sang-geun, 69, a retired auto mechanic from Seoul, took his two grandchildren to the DMZ to teach them “the pain of the national division,” he said. One of his children, Cha-min, 11, said his school friends didn’t want reunification with North Korea “because it would only make us poor.” |
| 现年69岁的金尚根（音）曾在首尔当汽车修理工，现已退休，他说，他带着两个孙子来非军事区，为的是让他们了解“国家分裂的痛苦”。孙子之一、11岁的哲闵（音）说，他在学校里的朋友不想与朝鲜统一，“因为那只会让我们变得贫穷。” |
| Such attitudes make Korean War refugees feel like a dying breed. |
| 这种态度让朝鲜战争后逃到韩国的难民们觉得他们像是行将消失的一类。 |
| “I once believed that Korea would be reunited by the time I was 50,” said Ahn Kyong-choon, 88, a war refugee from the North who was visiting a border island observatory from which North Korea is visible. |
| “我曾经相信，到我50岁时，朝鲜半岛会重新统一，”从朝鲜逃出的战争难民、现年88岁的安庆春（音）说道，说这番话时，他正在一个可以看到朝鲜的边界岛屿观察站。 |
| “I now have no such hope left in me.” |
| “我现在已经没有这种希望了。” |
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