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请网红来中国证明无强迫劳动?Shein的一场失败营销
Shein Flew Influencers to China to Help Its Image. A Backlash Ensued.

来源:纽约时报    2023-06-30 10:53



        When the ultrafast-fashion retailer Shein invited Kenya Freeman on a free two-week trip to China, she was thrilled. It has become a status symbol for Instagram and TikTok creators to be taken on paid excursions by brands, and Ms. Freeman, who had also been designing clothes for Shein for two and a half years, saw it as a major opportunity.        收到超快时尚零售商希音(Shein)的邀请,让她去中国免费旅行两周时,肯尼娅·弗里曼非常兴奋。由品牌出钱送去旅行已成为Instagram和TikTok平台上创作者的身份象征,弗里曼两年半来也一直在为Shein设计服装,她把这次旅行视为一次重要机会。
        But while brands often plan such trips to promote new products or generate online buzz, Shein’s pitch was unusual: She was among half a dozen influencers in the United States who would tour its factories and a shipping center, and meet workers. Shein, which has been under growing regulatory scrutiny as it grapples with accusations that its goods are made with forced labor, was hoping that the creators would post a more upbeat narrative about the company during their travels.        然而,尽管品牌为推广新产品或在网上炒热度而经常安排这种旅行,但Shein的宣传点却不同寻常。它安排弗里曼和另外几名美国网红参观它的工厂和物流中心,与工人们见面。Shein正受到越来越多的监管审查,该公司在努力设法解决关于其使用强迫劳动制造产品的指控,希望创作者们在这次旅行期间发布一些更为积极的内容。
        That part worked: Ms. Freeman created 11 Instagram posts, including videos, extolling Shein and its labor conditions on Instagram, where she has 31,600 followers. She and other creators enlisted by Shein highlighted tidy stacks of clear Shein packages, robots moving merchandise and rows of happy workers.        Shein的这个愿望得到了实现:弗里曼在Instagram上制作了11个帖子,包括赞扬Shein及其工作环境的视频,她在Instagram上有31600名粉丝。她和其他参加了这次Shein付费旅行的创作者们在他们发的内容中展示了整齐摆放的干净Shein包裹、搬运商品的机器人,以及一排又一排的快乐工人。
        “They weren’t even sweating,” one creator, Destene Sudduth, posted to Instagram and TikTok. (Ms. Sudduth did not respond to a request for comment.)        “他们甚至一滴汗都不流,”一位名叫德斯替妮·苏杜思的创作者在Instagram和TikTok上发帖说。(苏杜思没有回复记者的置评请求。)
        But rather than win hearts and minds, Shein and the creators have been roundly blasted in the past week by social media users who have viewed the videos incredulously. Shein has been forced to issue a statement saying it was “saddened” to see the backlash against its creators and has conducted what Ms. Freeman described as a “wellness check” to gauge how creators were faring after the torrent of online vitriol.        但Shein和这几名创作者非但没有赢得人心,反而在过去一周里受到社交媒体用户的猛烈抨击,他们对这些视频充满怀疑。Shein被迫发声明,称看到创作者受到攻击感到“难过”,并对创作者进行了(弗里曼所说的)“身心健康检查”,以判断他们在遭受了尖酸刻薄的网上攻击后的状况。
        The creators have been deleting negative comments on their social media accounts and posting defensive videos. And the trip has become a cautionary tale for marketers, as Shein’s efforts to help its reputation using influencers managed to alienate consumers and draw even more attention to allegations of unsavory business practices.        这些创作者一直在删除他们社交媒体帐号下的负面评论,并发布视频为自己辩护。这次旅行已经成为营销人员的反面教材:Shein用网红来提升自己声誉的努力反而疏远了消费者,并引起了人们对不良商业行为指控的更多注意。
        While influencer trips have ramped up on TikTok and Instagram, “I really don’t know of any other situation where there was an overt agenda like the Shein example,” said Mae Karwowski, founder of Obviously, an influencer marketing agency. “It required such a suspension of disbelief and clearly came across as a sort of propaganda.”        虽然TikTok和Instagram上的网红们旅行次数越来越多,但“我真的不知道有任何其他像Shein这样有明显意图的情况”,网红营销代理 Obviously的创始人梅·卡沃斯基说。“这需要人们在很大程度上收起疑心,因为这看上去显然是一种宣传。”
        In a statement, Shein said the trip “reflects one way in which we are listening to feedback.”        Shein在一份声明中说,这次旅行“反映了我们倾听反馈的一种方式”。
        “Their social media videos and commentary are authentic, and we respect and stand by each influencer’s perspective and voice on their experience,” the company added.        “他们发在社交媒体上的视频和评论都是真实的,我们尊重并支持每个网红对自己经历的事情发表看法和声音,”公司补充道。
        Shein — pronounced SHE-in — an online retailer founded in China more than a decade ago, has quickly gained popularity among U.S. consumers, particularly teenagers and 20-somethings, for its easy-to-use app and low prices on a wide assortment of trendy apparel and accessories. While most fast-fashion companies have long faced criticism over how they produce their goods, Shein has been accused of using forced labor in its supply chain and of copying designs; it has also been scrutinized for its business model of shipping cheap goods directly to the doors of American shoppers. Shein has said it conducts its business “lawfully.”        Shein是一家十多年前在中国成立的在线零售商,因易于使用的应用程序和价格低廉的各种时尚服装和配饰,迅速受到美国消费者的欢迎,尤其是在十几二十岁的年轻人中。虽然大多数快时尚公司长期以来一直面临着对其生产方式的批评,但Shein受到的指控还有它在供应链中使用强迫劳动,以及抄袭其他公司的设计;Shein还因其将廉价商品直接发到美国购物者家门口的商业模式而受到审查。Shein称公司开展业务的方式“合法”。
        The company, which is now based in Singapore but still produces clothing in China, has also received more attention as part of a broader crackdown from U.S. lawmakers on Chinese-owned companies like TikTok.        虽然该公司现在的总部在新加坡,但生产仍在中国。随着美国立法者们对TikTok等中国企业进行更广泛的打击,Shein也受到了更多的注意。
        Shein, which has reportedly been contemplating an initial public offering, has been trying to drum up good will after years of being relatively tight-lipped. The company started a unit for reselling its apparel to stave off criticism about sustainability, tapped independent designers to create new lines and hired federal lobbyists.        据报道,Shein一直在考虑首次公开募股,公司在保持了多年相对沉默之后,一直在努力赢得好感。公司成立了一个二手服装部门,以避免人们对其产品不可持续的批评,聘请独立设计师为其设计新产品,还请来游说机构在联邦政府替其说话。
        Shein appeared to be hoping that the influencer trip would help counteract a steady stream of critical news reports, including a British news channel investigation last year that found some of its workers were illegally working more than 18 hours per day to create its massive volume of fast-fashion garb, and a Bloomberg News report that some Shein garments were made with cotton from Xinjiang based on laboratory tests it commissioned. The U.S. government has banned imports from Xinjiang based on concerns about human rights abuses against Uyghurs, a predominantly Muslim group.        Shein似乎希望这次网红旅行能帮其抵消接二连三的负面新闻,包括一家英国新闻频道去年做的调查报道,该调查发现,为了大量生产快时尚服装,Shein违反法律让一些工人每天工作18个小时。彭博新闻社的一篇报道称,据其委托实验室做的检测,一些Shein服装用了新疆棉。出于对以穆斯林为主的维吾尔族人权受到侵犯的担忧,美国政府已禁止进口来自新疆的产品。
        “Shein essentially launched this campaign where it’s quite clear there is a desire to shift the narrative around the working conditions in these factories,” said Krishna Subramanian, a founder of the influencer marketing firm Captiv8. “It’s more effective and believable when it’s done from an influencer standpoint than by the brand themselves.”        “Shein发起的这场活动本质上是为了改变人们对这些工厂工作条件的看法,”网红营销公司Captiv8的创始人克里希娜·苏布拉马尼安说。“通过网红的视角来改变人们的看法,比品牌自己去做更有效、更可信。”
        In this case, the videos landed with a thud as they painted an oddly rosy view from Guangzhou factories and sought to cast online influencers known for designing clothing and promoting body positivity in a quasi-journalistic role. While critical reports about the company haven’t seemed to deter the retailer’s fans, the overt praise stood out.        就这次活动而言,网红们制作的视频引起了反感,因为它们描绘的广州工厂有着令人奇怪的乐观景象,而且公司试图让这些以设计服装、倡导体型自信闻名的网红扮演准新闻记者的角色。虽然对公司的负面报道似乎并没有影响这家零售商的粉丝,但公开的赞扬却引起了人们的注意。
        As creators sought to tell their followers that they interviewed happy workers who were surprised about “rumors” about Shein in the United States, users left comments like “integrity is worth more than a trip,” “did you read ANY news about this company?” and “the gaslighting is CRAZY!”        就在创作者们试图告诉粉丝们,他们采访的快乐员工对美国有关Shein的“谣言”感到惊讶的时候,网上用户留下了“诚信比一次旅行更有价值”、“你读过任何有关这家公司的新闻吗?”、“这种心理操纵太疯狂了!”等评论。
        Hashtags related to the trip like #sheinbrandtrip, #shein101 and #sheinfactory have garnered millions of views, according to Trendpop, a social media analytics firm. On TikTok, deleted videos from the creators took on a life of their own as people used the app’s editing tools to incorporate their own skeptical and horrified commentary.        据社交媒体分析公司Trendpop的统计,#sheinbrandtrip、#shein101、#sheinfactory等与这次旅行有关的话题标签已取得数百万次的浏览量。在TikTok上,已被创作者删除的视频获得了新的生命力,因为其他用户使用该应用程序的编辑工具,给视频加上了他们表示怀疑和惊恐的评论。
        Creators like Ms. Freeman have been baffled by the response. She said she thought that by showing Shein’s factories through her eyes, people would share her positive experience with the company and the trip, which she found informative. She said she had already received hate mail in the past for working with Shein but didn’t expect the intensity of the blowback. (Influencers have faced backlash before, for sponsored travel to Saudi Arabia and more recently an opulent trip to Dubai sponsored by the makeup brand Tarte.)        弗里曼等创作者对用户的反应感到困惑。她说,她原以为用自己的视角展示Shein工厂,会让人们分享她对公司和这次旅行的正面看法,她认为旅行为她提供了有用信息。她说,因为与Shein合作,她以前曾收到过仇恨邮件,但没想到这次反响的强度如此之大。 (以前,接受赞助去沙特阿拉伯旅行的网红,以及最近由化妆品牌Tarte赞助去迪拜进行豪华旅行的网红,也遭到过强烈批评。)
        She said that she had asked workers and Shein representatives about their working conditions and that they had told her they operated with integrity and conducted audits. Beyond that, she said, she didn’t know what else she could do.        弗里曼说,她曾向工人和Shein代表询问他们的工作条件,这些人告诉她,他们诚信经营,并对工作条件进行检查。她说,除此之外,她不知道还能做什么。
        “Why can’t I say this is my truth and my experience in working with this company?” Ms. Freeman said. “This is from my own two eyes, this is what I see, and this is my experience.”        “为什么我不能说这是我看到的真实情况,是我与这家公司合作的经历?”弗里曼问道。“这是我用自己的两只眼睛看到的,是我看到的,是我经历的。”
        She added, “My own eyes did not see what everybody else is talking about.”        她补充说,“我自己的眼睛没有看到其他人正在谈论的情况。”
        One of the influencers, Dani Carbonari, who goes by Dani DMC on social media and says she is a “confidence activist,” faced particular criticism for calling herself an “investigative journalist” in one Instagram video that praised the factory. That video has since been deleted, and Ms. Carbonari did not respond to a request for comment.        丹妮·卡博纳里也是参与此行的网红之一,她在社交媒体上使用Dani DMC这个网名,她把自己称为“信心活动人士”。她因在Instagram上发的一段称赞Shein工厂的视频中把自己称为“调查性新闻记者”而尤其受到了批评。那段视频已删除,卡博纳里没有回复记者的置评请求。
        In reality, the trip and the access that Shein gave the influencers stood in stark contrast to China’s increasingly hostile stance toward journalists in recent years. Negotiations have stalled between the United States and China over new visas for reporters at American news organizations, according to a March report from the Foreign Correspondents’ Club of China, and at least one American reporter with a valid visa was recently barred from re-entering China after leaving the country for a routine trip.        实际上,Shein为网红们安排的旅行和为他们提供的与工人接触的机会,与近年来中国对新闻记者的日益敌视态度形成鲜明对比。据驻华外国记者协会今年3月的报告,美中就向美国新闻机构驻华记者签发新签证的谈判已陷入僵局,至少一名持有效签证的美国记者最近因一次日常旅行离开中国后无法再次入境。
        “It’s a really clear example not to use creators who talk about specific things like lifestyle, fashion, body positivity and then try to get them to push a completely different agenda,” Ms. Karwowski, the influencer marketer, said. “That’s not going to work.”        “这是一个非常明显的例子,利用那些谈论生活方式、时尚、体型自信等具体事情的创作者来推销商品,然后试图用他们推动一个完全不同的议程,是行不通的,”从事网红营销的卡沃斯基说。
        On Tuesday, Ms. Carbonari posted a video on Instagram saying she “should have done more research” and was grateful that people had sent her information about Shein that she had used to educate herself.        卡博纳里周二在Instagram上发了一段视频,说自己“本该做更多的研究”,她感谢大家发给她的有关Shein的信息,并说已用这些信息做了自我教育。
        “I hope Shein can be more transparent and answer all your questions,” she said, “because I can take accountability for myself and my actions but I can’t take the fall for Shein.”        “我希望Shein能更透明,并回答你们所有的问题,”她说,“因为我可以为自己和我的行为负责,但我不能为Shein承担责任。”
                
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