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| As the first rays of sun pierced through the clouds covering snowcapped Himalayan peaks, Jigme Rabsal Lhamo, a Buddhist nun, drew a sword from behind her back and thrust it toward her opponent, toppling her to the ground. | 当第一缕阳光穿透覆盖喜马拉雅雪峰的云层时，阿尼（藏传佛教对女性僧侣的称呼。——译注）吉格梅·拉布萨·拉敏从背后抽出一把剑，刺向对手，令其倒地。 |
| “Eyes on the target! Concentrate!” Ms. Lhamo yelled at the knocked-down nun, looking straight into her eyes outside a whitewashed temple in the Druk Amitabha nunnery on a hill overlooking Kathmandu, the capital of Nepal. | “看准目标！集中注意力！”在俯瞰尼泊尔首都加德满都的小山上，阿弥陀佛寺一座粉刷成白色的大殿外，拉敏直视着被击倒的阿尼，对她大喊。 |
| Ms. Lhamo and the other members of her religious order are known as the Kung Fu nuns, part of an 800-year-old Buddhist sect called Drukpa, the Tibetan word for dragon. Across the Himalayan region, and the wider world, its followers now mix meditation with martial arts. | 拉敏和她的宗教团体的其他成员被称为“武尼”，属于一个有800年历史的佛教派别“竹巴”——藏语“龙”的意思。在喜马拉雅地区乃至更广阔的世界，竹巴信众正将冥想与武术结合在一起。 |
| Every day, the nuns swap their maroon robes for an umber brown uniform to practice Kung Fu, the ancient Chinese martial art. It’s part of their spiritual mission to achieve gender equality and physical fitness; their Buddhist beliefs also call on them to lead an environmentally friendly life. | 每天，阿尼们都要把栗色长袍换成棕褐色制服，练习中国古代武术——功夫。实现性别平等和身体健康是她们精神使命的一部分；佛教信仰还要求她们过一种环保的生活。 |
| Mornings inside the nunnery are filled with the thuds of heavy footsteps and the clanking of swords as the nuns train under Ms. Lhamo’s tutelage. Amid a soft rustle of their loose uniforms, they cartwheel, punch and kick one another. | 早晨，阿尼们在拉敏的指导下训练，沉重的步踏声和刀剑的叮当声响彻寺庙。她们做侧手翻，互相拳打脚踢，宽松的制服发出的沙沙声。 |
| “Kung Fu helps us to break gender barriers and develop inner confidence,” said Ms. Lhamo, 34, who arrived at the nunnery a dozen years ago from Ladakh, in northern India. “It also helps to take care of others during crises.” | “功夫帮助我们打破性别障碍，培养内心自信，”34岁的拉敏说。十几年前，她从印度北部的拉达克来到了这所寺院。“这也有助于在危机期间照顾他人。” |
| For as long as scholars of Buddhism remember, women in the Himalayas who sought to practice as spiritual equals with male monks were stigmatized, both by religious leaders and broader social customs. | 在佛教学者的印象里，寻求与男性僧人平等修行的喜马拉雅地区女性，会受到宗教领袖和更广泛社会习俗的污名化。 |
| Barred from engaging in the intense philosophic debates encouraged among monks, women were confined to chores like cooking and cleaning inside monasteries and temples. They were forbidden from activities involving physical exertion or from leading prayers or even from singing. | 女性被禁止参与僧侣们鼓励的哲学激辩，只能在寺庙里从事做饭和打扫等杂务。她们被禁止从事体力活动或是主持法会，甚至被禁止唱歌。 |
| In recent decades, those restrictions have become the heart of a raging battle waged by thousands of nuns across many sects of Himalayan Buddhism. | 近几十年来，喜马拉雅佛教诸教派中数以千计的阿尼们针对这些限制发起了激烈的斗争。 |
| Leading the charge for change are the Kung Fu nuns, whose Drukpa sect began a reformist movement 30 years ago under the leadership of Jigme Pema Wangchen, who is also known as the 12th Gyalwang Drukpa. He was willing to disrupt centuries of tradition and wanted nuns who would carry the sect’s religious message outside monastery walls. | 引领变革的是这些武尼，她们所在的竹巴教派在30年前发起了一场改良运动，其领袖是晋美白玛旺钦，也就是第12世嘉旺竹巴。他愿意打破几个世纪以来的传统，希望阿尼们能把该教派的宗教信息带到寺院墙外。 |
| “We are changing rules of the game,” said Konchok Lhamo, 29, a Kung Fu nun. “It is not enough to meditate on a cushion inside a monastery.” | “我们正在改变游戏规则，”29岁的武尼贡觉·拉敏说。“只是在寺院的蒲团上打坐是不够的。” |
| Today, Drukpa nuns not only practice Kung Fu but also lead prayers and walk for months on pilgrimages to pick up plastic litter and make people aware of climate change. | 如今，竹巴阿尼不仅练习功夫，还主持法会，徒步朝圣数月，回收塑料垃圾，让人们意识到气候变化。 |
| Every year for the past 20, except for a hiatus during the pandemic, the nuns have cycled about 1,250 miles from Kathmandu to Ladakh, high in the Himalayas, to promote green transportation. | 在过去的20年里，除了疫情间歇期间，阿尼们每年都从加德满都骑自行车2000公里，前往喜马拉雅山高处的拉达克，以推广绿色交通。 |
| Along the way, they stop to educate people in rural parts of both Nepal and India about gender equality and the importance of girls. | 一路上，她们会停下来，教育尼泊尔和印度农村地区的人们性别平等和女孩的重要性。 |
| The sect’s nuns were first introduced to martial arts in 2008 by followers from Vietnam, who had come to the nunnery to learn scriptures and how to play the instruments used during prayers. | 该教派的阿尼们在2008年首次接触武术，是由来自越南的教众介绍的，后者来到她们的寺院学习经文，并学习如何弹奏法会上使用的乐器。 |
| Since then, about 800 nuns have been trained in martial arts basics, with around 90 going through intense lessons to become trainers. | 从那时起，大约有800名阿尼接受了武术基础训练，其中约90人接受了高强度的训练，成了武师。 |
| The 12th Gyalwang Drukpa has also been training the nuns to become chant masters, a position once reserved only for men. He has also given them the highest level of teaching, called Mahamudra, a Sanskrit word for “great seal,” an advanced system of meditation. | 第12世嘉旺竹巴也一直在训练阿尼们成为诵经大师，这个职位曾经只留给男性。他还为她们提供最高水平的教导，称为“大手印”，是一种高级的冥想体系。 |
| The nuns have become well known both in Hindu-majority Nepal, which is about 9 percent Buddhist, and beyond the country’s borders. | 这些阿尼在印度教徒占多数的尼泊尔（该国约有9%的人口是佛教徒）乃至国外都很有名。 |
| But the changes for the sect have not come without intense backlash, and conservative Buddhists have threatened to burn Drukpa temples. | 但变革并非没有遭遇强烈反弹，保守的佛教徒威胁要烧毁竹巴寺庙。 |
| During their trips down the steep slopes from the nunnery to the local market, the nuns have been verbally abused by monks from other sects. But that doesn’t deter them, they say. When they travel, heads shaved, on trips in their open vans, they can look like soldiers ready to be deployed on the front line and capable of confronting any bias. | 在从寺院到当地市场的陡峭山坡上，阿尼们遭到了其他教派僧侣的辱骂。但她们说，这并不能阻止她们。留着光头的她们开着敞篷货车出行时，看起来就像准备派到前线的士兵，能够面对任何偏见。 |
| The sect’s vast campus is home to 350 nuns, who live with ducks, turkeys, swans, goats, 20 dogs, a horse and a cow, all rescued either from the knife of butchers or from the streets. The women work as painters, artists, plumbers, gardeners, electricians and masons, and also manage a library and medical clinic for laypeople. | 竹巴派的大寺里住着350名阿尼，她们和鸭子、火鸡、天鹅、山羊、20条狗、一匹马和一头牛生活在一起，这些都是从屠夫刀下或从街上救回来的。这些女性从事油漆匠、画家、水管工、园丁、电工和泥瓦匠的工作，还管理着向俗众开放的图书馆和诊所。 |
| “When people come to the monastery and see us working, they start thinking being a nun is not being ‘useless,’” said Zekit Lhamo, 28, referring to an insult sometimes hurled at the nuns. “We are not only taking care of our religion but the society, too.” | 28岁的泽吉特·拉敏说：“当人们来到寺院，看到我们在工作，他们就会开始认为，阿尼并不是‘毫无用处’。”她指的是阿尼们有时会受到的侮辱。“我们不仅关照我们的宗教，也关照社会。” |
| Their work has inspired other women in Nepal’s capital. | 她们的工作激励了尼泊尔首都的其他女性。 |
| “When I look at them, I want to become a nun,” said Ajali Shahi, a graduate student at Tribhuvan University in Kathmandu. “They look so cool, and you want to leave everything behind.” | “看到她们，我也想成为阿尼，”加德满都特里布万大学的研究生阿贾丽·夏希说。“她们看起来很酷，让你想把一切都抛在脑后。” |
| Every day, the nunnery receives at least a dozen inquiries about joining the order from places as far as Mexico, Ireland, Germany and the United States. | 寺院每天会收到至少十几条关于加入该教派的咨询，有的来自墨西哥、爱尔兰、德国和美国这样遥远的地方。 |
| “But everyone can’t do this,” said Jigme Yangchen Ghamo, a nun. “It looks attractive from outside, but inside it is a hard life.” | “但不是每个人都能这么做，”阿尼吉格梅·扬钦·迦莫说。“外面看起来很诱人，但里面的生活很艰苦。” |
| “Our lives,” she added, “are bound by so many rules that even having a pocket in your robes comes with restrictions.” | “我们的生活，”她补充说，“受到太多规则的约束，就连长袍上的口袋也是有规定的。” |
| On a recent day, the nuns woke up at 3 a.m. and began meditating in their dormitories. Before dawn broke, they walked toward the main temple, where a nun chant master, Tsondus Chuskit, led prayers. Sitting cross-legged on benches, the nuns scrolled through the prayer text on their iPads, introduced to minimize use of paper. | 前不久的一天，阿尼们凌晨三点起床，开始在宿舍里冥想。天还没亮，她们就朝大殿走去，阿尼诵经师顿杜·真吉主持法会。阿尼们盘腿坐在长椅上，用iPad研读经文，这是为了尽量减少纸张的使用。 |
| Then in unison they began to chant, and the bright-colored temple filled with the sound of drums, horns and ring bells. | 然后她们开始齐声诵经，色彩鲜艳的寺庙里充满了鼓声、号角和钟声。 |
| After the prayers, the nuns gathered outside. | 法会过后，阿尼们聚集在外面。 |
| Jigmet Namdak Dolker was about 12 when she noticed a stream of Drukpa nuns walking past her uncle’s house in Ladakh in India. An adopted child, she ran out and started walking with them. | 吉格梅特·纳姆达克·多尔克是被收养的孩子，大约12岁时，她看到一群竹巴阿尼从位于印度拉达克的叔叔家经过。她跑出去跟着她们走。 |
| She wanted to become a nun and begged her uncle to let her join Drukpa nunnery, but he refused. | 她想成为一名阿尼，并恳求叔叔让她加入竹巴寺院，但他拒绝了。 |
| One day, four years later, she left the house and joined thousands of people celebrating the birthday of Jigme Pema Wangchen, the sect’s head. She eventually made her way to the nunnery and never returned. | 四年后的一天，她离开了家，和数以千计的人一起为教派领袖晋美白玛旺钦祝寿。她最终去了寺院，再也没有回头。 |
| And how does she feel after seven years, six of which she has spent practicing Kung Fu? | 七年过去了，其中六年她一直在练习功夫，她现在感觉如何？ |
| “Proud. Freedom to do whatever I like,” she said, “And so strong from inside that I can do anything.” | “很自豪，”她说：“我有自由去做任何我喜欢的事，而且内心很强大，我可以做任何事情。” |
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