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| If, like many New Yorkers with a taste for Tibetan food, you are used to finding your momos and shapaley at the top of rickety staircases, or behind cellphone stores, or in the backs of gift shops, your first trip to Nha Sang in Elmhurst, Queens, may come as something of a shock. | 如果你像大多数喜欢藏人美食的纽约人那样，不是踩着快散架的楼梯，就是在手机店后面，或是礼品店深处的地方寻觅馍馍和炸馅饼，那么你第一次到访皇后区埃尔姆赫斯的那桑餐厅，你可能会感到震惊。 |
| Nha Sang is almost certainly the grandest and most elaborately designed Tibetan restaurant in the city. Behind doors decked with Tibetan prayer flags is a double-height modern space, painted nutmeg brown, with more than 100 seats on the ground floor and slightly fewer in a glassed-in balcony. The dark wood tables and tall simulated-leather chairs look as if they are waiting to welcome an annual meeting of regional sales managers in the conference center of a recently opened Embassy Suites. | 几乎可以肯定，那桑餐厅是这座城市中最富丽堂皇、设计最精美的藏餐厅。在装饰着经幡的门后是一个双层高的现代空间，漆成肉豆蔻棕色，楼下有100多个座位，玻璃阳台上还有少许座位。深色木桌和高大的仿真皮椅，看起来像是新开张的尊盛酒店会议厅，在等待前来召开年度会议的区域销售经理们。 |
| They are, in fact, more likely to be taken over by Buddhist monks in cranberry robes or by large, intergenerational families, the youngest children tearing off strips of steamed dough from fist-size braids of tingmo before shakily passing the bread to their grandparents. Big groups like this are often seated against one wall, on a long bench covered with carpets and cushions woven in traditional Tibetan patterns. Running above this bench is a backlighted transparency of Lhasa, a panoramic view of the capital city’s palaces and temples rising from the two-mile-high Tibetan Plateau. | 其实坐在这些椅子上的更有可能是穿着绛红色袍子的僧侣，或数代同堂的大家庭，幼小的孩子们把拳头大小的蒸花卷撕成小条，然后颤颤悠悠地将盘子递给爷爷奶奶。像这样的大桌通常靠墙，人们坐在长凳上，上面铺着地毯和编织有传统藏族图案的靠垫。长凳上方是首府拉萨宫殿和寺庙的浩瀚图景，海拔3000多米的青藏高原在它们脚下。 |
| The restaurant is full of large gestures. The photograph of Lhasa is at least 12 feet long. Near the entrance, a half-scale Buddha cast from bronze sits in his own room, surrounded by offerings of fruit and water. In the middle of the dining room is a modern interpretation of a nomadic dried-mud stove, equipped with an electronic flame instead of the customary bricks of burning yak dung. | 餐厅到处可见大手笔的投入。那幅拉萨照片至少有三米长。在入口附近，一尊青铜铸成的半比例佛像坐一个单独的房间里，周围供奉着水果和流水。餐厅中间是一座现代版的游牧干泥炉，配备了电子火焰，没有使用惯常的牦牛粪块作燃料。 |
| Chusang Nhasang opened the restaurant in May with her brother, sister, mother and father. She or one of her siblings will probably guide you through the menu with kindness and patience that stand out even by the high standards of Tibetan hospitality. Her father contributed the Buddha and other vintage pieces around the restaurant. Many of the Tibetan recipes come from her mother, who has been known to take over the kitchen on very busy nights. | 楚桑·那桑在5月与兄弟姐妹和父母一起开了这家餐厅。她或她的兄弟姐妹之一可能会友善并耐心地引导你浏览菜单，即使以藏人待客的标准，他们的热情也显得格外突出。餐厅周围的佛像和其他古董来自他的父亲。许多藏餐食谱来自她的母亲，晚上非常忙碌时，她会接管厨房。 |
| This is the second Nha Sang the Nhasangs have owned. The first was in Burnsville, Minn., outside Minneapolis, where they settled after immigrating from Tibet. The Minneapolis area has the second-largest Tibetan community in the United States. Nevertheless, the Nhasangs hedged their bets, fluffing out their menu of Tibetan dishes with General Tso’s chicken, Thai and Vietnamese curries, and a few recipes — like walleye in jalapeño-basil sauce and a cranberry-chicken curry — that intriguingly suggest that Minnesota might be a long-lost Asian nation. | 这是那桑一家拥有的第二间那桑餐厅。第一间是在明尼苏达州伯恩斯维尔，位于明尼阿波利斯郊外。他们从西藏移民后定居在那里。明尼阿波利斯地区拥有美国第二大藏人社区。即便如此，为了保险起见，那桑一家还是增添了左宗棠鸡、泰式和越南咖喱来丰富他们的藏餐菜单，以及其他一些菜式——如墨西哥辣椒罗勒酱烹煮的玻璃梭鲈和蔓越莓咖喱鸡——让人不禁以为明尼苏达可能是失踪已久的亚洲国家。 |
| The family closed the original Nha Sang last year and moved from the second-largest Tibetan community to the largest. With their new restaurant in Queens, they eighty-sixed the walleye. General Tso has lived to fight another day, along with a few other Chinese takeout staples. Almost everything else on Nha Sang’s menu is either Tibetan or Sichuan. | 去年，那桑一家关闭了最初那间餐厅，并从第二大藏人社区搬到了最大的藏人社区。他们在皇后区的新餐厅开张时，菜单上没有了玻璃梭鲈。左宗棠鸡和其他一些中餐外卖常见菜留了下来。那桑的菜单上几乎所有其他菜品不是藏式就是川菜。 |
| The two cuisines are not often found together in Queens, but they are in Asia. The largest population of Tibetans outside Tibet lives in Sichuan’s capital, Chengdu. Since the annexation of Tibet by China in 1951, large numbers of Han Chinese, many from the Sichuan Province, have moved in the other direction, to Tibet. Often, they go with the encouragement of Beijing, one of many tactics the Chinese government has used to mold Tibet’s people and culture to fit Han Chinese standards. | 在皇后区，这两种菜系不经常一起出现，但在亚洲却不是这样。西藏以外最大的藏人群体居住在四川省会成都。自1951年中国吞并西藏以来，也有大量汉人移居西藏，其中大部分来自四川。通常，他们在北京的鼓励下进藏，这是中国政府用来塑造西藏人民和文化以符合汉族标准的众多策略之一。 |
| The Nhasangs themselves are from Ngaba, which is in the Amdo region of northeastern Tibetan, a cultural borderland where Tibetan and Sichuan traditions meet. China has decreed that Ngaba is within Sichuan Province. | 那桑一家来自阿坝，阿坝位于西藏东北部的安多地区，是西藏和四川传统交汇的文化边界。中国将阿坝归于四川。 |
| If you are rooting for Tibetan identity to survive, you may find the restaurant’s double-barreled menu unnerving. But it reflects modern Tibet, where time has not stood still. Today, many Tibetans weaned on yak-butter tea have come to appreciate the lip-tingling power of mapo tofu. The stomach doesn’t always recognize political distinctions. | 如果你支持藏人身份认同的延续，餐厅跨越两个文化的菜单可能会让你感到不安。但这反映了现代西藏，那里的时间并没有静止。今天，许多逐渐不再喝酥油茶的藏人开始欣赏麻婆豆腐给舌尖带来的辛辣刺激。胃可并不总是能够识别出政治上的区别。 |
| “There isn’t anything political about the restaurant,” Chusang’s brother, Shenphen, said in a phone interview. “If food is good, I’ll eat it.” | “餐厅没有任何政治色彩，”楚桑的弟弟申芬在接受电话采访时说。“如果食物好吃，我就吃。” |
| Ngaba’s location may explain why certain dishes at Nha Sang seem just a bit spicier than at other Tibetan restaurants around town. | 阿坝的地理位置或许可以解释为什么那桑餐厅的某些菜肴看起来比纽约其他西藏餐馆的菜要辣一点。 |
| A non-trivial amount of fresh red chiles shows up in the ping-sha riri, which is almost but not quite a soup, made from drenching a squiggly bowlful of cellophane noodles in dark, oily liquid seasoned with beef and fragrant with Sichuan peppercorns. The nearly sweet chile paste that clings to the shapta, a classic Tibetan meat stir-fry, gives off a noticeable warmth. Nha Sang’s thentuk can be ordered with or without spice. Without, it is a fairly quiet soup of vegetables and ragged squarish hand-pulled noodles the size of Wheat Chex; the spicy version is a little pinker with chile flakes and chile oil. | 肉末粉丝(Ping-sha riri)加了不少新鲜红辣椒，这几乎是一道汤，但不完全是汤，弯弯曲曲的透明粉丝浸在深色的红油汤汁里，佐牛肉调味，并用四川花椒增香。炒牛肉(shapta)是一种经典的西藏小炒，肉片裹着有些甜辣的酱料，散发出醒目的暖意。那桑的手工拉面汤可以选择去辣。不加辣味的话，它是一碗相当清淡的蔬菜汤，煮着边缘粗糙的方形手拉面条，大小像格格脆麦片；辛辣的版本颜色偏粉红，加了辣椒片和辣椒油。 |
| Still, the back of your throat will tell you when you cross over to the Sichuan side of the menu. This is especially true if you order, as you should, the mala fish, which is made up of dozens of thumb-size bits of crunchy fish stir-fried with dried chiles and Sichuan peppercorns until they are almost smoking. The dish is similar to Chongqing chicken, which is also served, but with less exciting results. Sichuan-style seafood at Nha Sang, particularly the broiled whole fish with what the menu unhelpfully calls “spicy sauce,” is generally more compelling than the Sichuan chicken, pork or beef. | 不过，当你翻到菜单里四川菜的部分时，你的喉咙会有些感觉。尤其是当你点了麻辣炸鱼——几十块拇指大小的酥脆炸鱼用干辣椒和花椒爆炒。这道菜类似于重庆辣子鸡，也在菜单上，但效果没有那么惊人。那桑的川味海鲜，尤其是烤鱼——菜单上就写的是“辣汁”——通常比鸡肉、猪肉或牛肉类川菜更有吸引力。 |
| There is more than a sampling of Sichuan appetizers. Ignore the drab dan dan noodles and zero in on chilled beef and tripe “husband and wife” style, incandescent with chile oil; lightly crushed cucumbers whose bruises are treated with garlic, vinegar and sesame seeds; fat bricks of bean jelly in a mortar of chile paste and green onions. | 不仅仅是四川开胃菜的样品。忘记单调的担担面吧，专门来试试夫妻肺片，凉爽的牛肉、牛肚拌上鲜亮的红油；黄瓜拍碎，裂缝里钻进了蒜末、醋和芝麻粒；粗条凉粉上浇上一钵辣酱，撒上小葱。 |
| The Sichuan dumplings in chile oil aren’t bad, either. But it is hard to leave a Tibetan restaurant without having tried a momo or two. Nha Sang’s have thinner, more delicate skins than some others, a definite plus. And if the fillings (chopped beef, chicken, pork or chives) aren’t as juicy as they could be, some vivid red momo sauce can take care of that. The shapaley, those fried Tibetan turnovers, are stuffed only with beef. Again, they are improved by momo sauce. | 红油水饺也不赖。但是，来到一家藏人餐馆，很难不吃上一两口馍馍。那桑的馍馍皮比其他餐厅的更薄、更精致，这绝对是一个加分项。如果馅料（碎牛肉、鸡肉、猪肉或细香葱）还不够多汁，一些鲜艳的红色馍馍酱可以帮忙。炸馅饼——油炸的藏式卷饼——里面塞的全是牛肉。同样，蘸馍馍酱会更好吃。 |
| For dessert there is tsampa ice cream sprinkled with powdered tsampa, or a tsampa cake. Tsampa — toasted barley — is a defining flavor of Tibet’s high-altitude cooking. It is also a symbol of Tibetan identity. | 甜点是撒有糌粑粉的糌粑冰淇淋，或糌粑饼。糌粑，也就是炒过的青稞，是西藏高海拔烹饪的标志性风味。它也是藏人身份的象征。 |
| Barley on barley is a little austere for some palates, but you do not come to Nha Sang for symphonies of dense custard and shattering tuile. You come to look at Tibet in one of the few ways you can, through the eyes of the people who left it. | 青稞加青稞，对有的人来说有点艰苦，但你来那桑餐厅不是为了在炼乳和酥脆蛋卷交织的奢华中放纵。在这里，你可以通过离开那里的人的视角看待西藏，这是为数不多的看到西藏的方式之一。 |
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