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| KYIV, Ukraine — As night falls and darkness descends on Kyiv, the flashlights on smartphones begin to flicker on like fairy lights, leading the way home. Dogs wear glow sticks around their necks; flower merchants switch on headlamps to show off the vibrant colors of their lilacs and peonies; and children are outfitted in reflective clothing for safety. |
| 乌克兰基辅——随着夜幕降临基辅，智能手机上的手电筒像仙女灯一样闪烁，指引回家的路。狗脖子上戴着荧光棒；花商打开头灯，展示色彩鲜艳的紫丁香和牡丹；为了安全起见，孩子们穿上了反光衣。 |
| The streets of this capital city, illuminated with nightlife only weeks ago, are now shrouded in darkness and shadows after sunset. That’s the result of the rolling power outages Ukraine has put in place to prevent a complete collapse of the national energy grid, after repeated Russian bombardments. |
| 几周前，首都的夜生活还是灯火通明，如今一到日落，城市就笼罩在黑暗和阴影中。这是因为经过俄罗斯多次轰炸，乌克兰为防止国家能源网彻底崩溃，实施了分区轮流停电。 |
| Failing on the battlefield, President Vladimir V. Putin of Russia has stepped up his campaign to break the nation’s resolve by degrading daily life, with strikes aimed at disabling critical infrastructure like electric power. That included a missile strike this week that disabled the pumps that drive water, leaving most of the city without water for a day. |
| 在战场上失败的俄罗斯总统普京加紧行动，发动旨在破坏电力等关键基础设施的袭击，通过降低日常生活质量来摧毁这个国家的决心。其中包括本周的一次导致水泵失效的导弹袭击，致使该市大部分地区一整天没有水。 |
| After that attack, Ukraine this week imposed even more sweeping power rationing across the country. In the capital, residents were told they will need to go 12 hours a day without power, with neighborhoods rotating the times they will have access to electricity. |
| 在那次袭击之后，乌克兰本周在全国范围内实施了更广泛的电力定量配给。在首都，居民被告知每天停电12小时，社区将轮流用电。 |
| When the sun is out — even if obscured by slate-gray skies — Kyiv can still feel relatively normal, with crowded shops, busy restaurants and buzzing cafes. |
| 当太阳出来时——即使被青灰的云雾遮掩——基辅给人的感觉依然相对正常，商店热闹、餐馆繁忙，咖啡馆熙熙攘攘。 |
| The night, however, is different. |
| 然而，夜晚则不同。 |
| At night, the city is a dance of darkness and light, shadow and silhouette, at times menacing and at other moments beautiful. And because neighborhoods alternate the times they have power, moving across the city can create an eerie chiaroscuro of bold contrasts between light and dark. The shifts can play tricks on the eye. |
| 夜晚，这座城市黑暗与光明交织、阴影与剪影共舞，时而险恶，时而美丽。而且由于社区交替用电，跨区出行会制造一种鲜明而诡异的明暗对比，令人产生错觉。 |
| In the gloaming, the lamps that normally illuminate the Andriivskyi Descent — an ancient cobblestone street in the heart of Kyiv that runs from the majestic St. Andrew’s Church perched high on a hill down to the old trading quarter along the Dnipro River — were dark on Saturday. |
| 安德烈斜坡是基辅市中心一条古老的鹅卵石街道，从高大雄伟的圣安德鲁教堂一直延伸到第聂伯河沿岸的旧贸易区。通常照亮街道的灯在周六的暮色中没有点亮。 |
| Merchants selling a varied assortment of jewelry, embroidery, decorative coins, old cameras and, now, war memorabilia hurried to pack their goods before nightfall. The flashing blue lights from a police car shimmered off the wet and glistening road as a child played an accordion under a lone light. |
| 商贩们出售各式各样的珠宝、刺绣、装饰硬币、旧相机，现在还卖战争纪念品，他们在夜幕降临前匆忙收摊。警车闪烁的蓝色灯光在湿漉漉的道路上闪闪发光，一个孩子在孤独的灯光下拉手风琴。 |
| Strangers passing on the street can sometimes stir apprehension amid the shadows, but music can transform the scene. Across the capital in the early evenings, musicians strum guitars by lantern or play the piano by flashlight in alleys and on street corners, singing Ukrainian anthems and Western pop ballads. |
| 在阴影中，街上路过的陌生人有时会令人恐惧，但音乐可以改变这种情景。傍晚时分，在首都的另一边，音乐家们在小巷和街角伴着灯笼弹吉他，或者打着手电弹钢琴，唱起乌克兰赞歌和西方流行歌谣。 |
| Walking the streets of the capital might bring to mind the Emily Dickinson poem about human resilience: “We Grow Accustomed to the Dark.” |
| 走在这座首都的街道上，可能会想起艾米莉·狄金森那首关于人类复原力的诗：《我们渐渐习惯了黑暗》。 |
| “The Bravest — grope a little — And sometimes hit a Tree Directly in the Forehead,” the poet wrote. “But as they learn to see — Either the Darkness alters — Or something in the sight Adjusts itself to Midnight — And Life steps almost straight.” |
| “最勇敢者——摸索了一阵——有时额头直接撞上树，”这位诗人写道。“但当他们学着看见——要么黑暗改变了——要么视线中的某物适应了午夜——而生活几乎径直向前。” |
| Still, the darkness can bring danger. Car accidents have soared 25 percent, according to the police. The authorities have asked that parents outfit their children in reflective clothing, and President Volodymyr Zelensky urged drivers this week to be extra cautious at night. |
| 尽管如此，黑暗也会带来危险。据警方称，车祸已经飙升了25%。当局已要求父母为孩子穿上反光衣，总统泽连斯基本周敦促司机在夜间要格外小心。 |
| The Ukrainian authorities have compelling reasons to ration power. A collapse of the Ukrainian power grid would cripple sewage systems. Fuel pumps at gas stations would stop working. Traffic lights would switch off and subway systems would come to a halt. |
| 乌克兰当局有充足的理由实行定量配给电力。乌克兰电网一旦崩溃，污水处理系统将会瘫痪。加油站的燃油泵会停止工作。交通信号灯会关闭，地铁系统会停止运行。 |
| In homes, food in refrigerators would spoil and there would be no heat to protect from the bitter winter cold. Communication networks would cease to function, and hospitals would strain to treat the sick and wounded. |
| 在居民家中，冰箱里的食物会变质，而且没有暖气可以抵御严酷的寒冬。通讯网络会停止运作，医院救治伤病员的能力将会非常紧张。 |
| That is already the medieval state of affairs for hundreds of thousands of civilians still living in towns and cities along the vast, 1,000 mile front line and for those trapped in places destroyed and now occupied by Russian forces. |
| 对于仍然生活在长达1600公里的广阔前线城镇的数十万平民，以及被困在遭俄军摧毁或占领地带的人来说，生活像是回到了中世纪。 |
| As they have done throughout the war, Ukrainians are adapting. |
| 乌克兰人正在适应，正如他们在整个战争期间所做的那样。 |
| Oleksandra Yefymenko, 28, said she always had bad vision, especially at night. When the power went out at her home, she said, “I was stepping on my cats and crashing into the furniture.” So she went to the eye doctor and got corrective lenses. |
| 28岁的奥莱克桑德拉·叶菲缅科说她的视力一直很糟糕，尤其到了晚上。她说，当她家停电时，“我踩到我的猫，撞到家具上。”于是她去看了眼科医生，并得到了矫正镜片。 |
| “To see is the best possible thing,” she said. “As well as to live without Russia.” |
| “能看见真是件好事，”她说。“生活中没有俄罗斯也是。” |
| Others noted how in the darkness the stars seem brighter and the moon more brilliant. |
| 人们注意到，在黑暗中星星看起来更耀眼，月亮更明亮。 |
| Anna Pantyukhova, 36, is determined to keep doing the things that make her and her family happy. When she went to the cycling track, she was warned that the lights would switch off early. |
| 36岁的安娜·潘秋霍娃决心继续做让她和家人感到幸福的事情。当她去自行车赛道时，她被警告说场地里的灯会提前关掉。 |
| “My sons adapted quickly, but for me it was harder,” she said, of the cycling. “The only thing I could see were the white driving lines. Since then, we have been practicing with headlights.” |
| “儿子们很快就适应了，但对我来说更难一些，”她谈到骑自行车时说。“我只能看到白色的行车线。从那时起，我们练习时一直使用头灯。” |
| “But we don’t complain,” she continued. “We are grateful that we live in a relatively safe city and can do our usual things.” |
| “但我们不抱怨，”她继续说。“我们很感激我们生活在一个相对安全的城市，可以做我们平常做的事情。” |
| Still, the darkness has shifted the mood in the capital. |
| 尽管如此，黑暗已经改变了首都的气氛。 |
| In the early months of the war, Kyiv was essentially transformed into a bunker as Russian shells thundered on the city’s outskirts daily. Many people fled while Moscow’s troops bore down on the city. Then the Russians were driven out of the Kyiv region and other northern cities. Tens of thousands of people returned. |
| 在战争的最初几个月，俄罗斯的炮弹每天都在该市的郊区轰鸣，基辅基本上变成了一个掩体。许多人在莫斯科军队向这座城市发起进攻时逃离。后来俄罗斯人被赶出基辅地区和其他北部城市。数万人返回了基辅。 |
| In the summer, with Russian forces driven far from the city, a sense of security took hold. But after three straight Mondays this month of broad aerial assaults on Kyiv and other cities across the country — and the shadows over the capital now — the mood has changed again. |
| 在夏天，随着俄罗斯军队被远远赶出城市，一种安全感逐渐生根。但在本月，基辅和全国其他城市连续三个周一遭到广泛空袭，现在的首都笼罩在阴影之中，人们的情绪再次发生了变化。 |
| On Monday night, after the wave of Russian strikes that compromised the water supply, the feeling in Kyiv was tense and strange. The contours of people visible in the moonlight, straining to carry containers filled with water drawn from wells, was something new and foreboding. |
| 周一晚上，在俄罗斯的一波空袭破坏供水后，基辅的人们感到既紧张又怪异。在月光下，人们的身影清晰可见，他们用力提着装满井水的容器，这是一种从未有过的不详预感。 |
| “Obviously, I am a little bit terrified right now,” said Daria, 25, as she watched people fill water bottles in a darkened park on Monday night. “Because it is only October, and I am thinking about all the next months. And its going to be colder and colder.” |
| “显然，我现在有点害怕，”25岁的达里亚说，周一晚上，她在一个黑暗的公园里看着人们往水瓶里装水。“因为现在才10月，我正在考虑接下来的几个月。而且接下来会越来越冷。” |
| Cursing Russia, she said she had no plans to leave. |
| 她诅咒俄罗斯，说她不打算离开。 |
| But Olga Minchik, 39, said the darkness can lead to lovely moments, like when she takes her dog for a walk, with his collar illuminated with LED lights. |
| 但39岁的奥尔加·明奇克表示，黑暗可以带来美好的时刻，比如遛狗的时候，狗的项圈被LED灯照亮。 |
| “I’m walking my dog with a light and when we meet with other dog walkers we put our lights on the trees,” she said. “It looks very atmospheric — as if we were having a party.” |
| “我遛的狗戴着灯，和其他遛狗的人见面时，我们就把灯挂在树上，”她说。“看起来很有气氛——就好像开派对一样。” |
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