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| SEOUL — Seo Hyuk-jun, 36, knelt before the white chrysanthemums as he placed a lit cigarette, incense and a paper cup filled with Jack Daniel’s on the ground. He stood, knelt and bowed twice, performing a traditional Korean ritual for the dead. | 首尔——36岁的徐赫俊（音）跪在白菊花前，将点燃的香烟、熏香和盛满杰克丹尼威士忌的纸杯放在地上。他肃立，跪下，伏地叩首两次，这是韩国祭奠死者的传统仪式。 |
| Day after day, such tributes arrived at the makeshift memorial in Itaewon, one of Seoul’s most popular districts. Young South Koreans used to go there for its diversity and vibrant nightlife. They called it “Itaewon freedom.” | 连日来，人们纷纷前往梨泰院，在这样的临时纪念地表示悼念。梨泰院是首尔最受欢迎的地区之一，韩国年轻人被其多样性和充满活力的夜生活吸引，他们称之为“梨泰院自由”。 |
| Now, the neighborhood has become a sobering monument of grief and soul-searching after more than 150 young people were killed during a crowd crush while celebrating Halloween last Saturday. Bars that were throbbing with K-pop music just a week ago are now silent, their doors covered with condolence messages and a notice from the local government asking people to refrain from loud music and dancing. | 上周六，150多名年轻人在庆祝万圣节时发生的人群踩踏事件中丧生，如今，这个社区已成为一座沉痛的纪念碑，记录着人们的悲伤和反思。一周前还在播放韩国流行音乐的酒吧现在安静下来，门上贴满哀悼信息和当地政府的通知，要求人们不要放吵闹的音乐，不要跳舞。 |
| Like many South Koreans, Mr. Seo said he felt guilty being alive when so many young people were killed that night, their entire lives still ahead of them. “For them, it was no ordinary Halloween. They were supposed to feel freedom after three years of pandemic hell,” Mr. Seo said, choking back tears. “I hope my cigarette and liquor will ease their trip to the next world.” | 和许多韩国人一样，徐赫俊说，他对自己还活着感到内疚，因为那天晚上有那么多年轻人死去，他们原本还有那么长的人生。“对他们来说，这不是一个普通的万圣节。在经历了三年的疫情地狱之后，他们本应感到自由，”徐赫俊哽咽着说。“我希望我的烟酒能在他们去往另一个世界的旅途中带来安慰。” |
| Nowhere is that sense of mourning felt more acutely than near Exit No. 1 of the Itaewon subway station, once known as a bustling gateway to nightlife and fun. The alleyway where the crowd crush happened, near that exit, has remained closed all week, crisscrossed with orange police tape. Police officers stood guard on a recent evening, green light batons in hand. Pedestrians occasionally knelt and bowed in mourning. | 在梨泰院地铁站一号出口附近，这种哀悼感最强烈。这里曾经是通往夜生活和娱乐的繁华之门。发生人群踩踏事件的那条小巷就在这个出口附近，这一周一直处于关闭状态，橙色的警戒线纵横交错地封锁着外围。最近的一个晚上，警察手持绿光警棍在外站岗。行人偶尔会伏地叩首，以示哀悼。 |
| “People are still walking down the streets, cars are still driving, but I hear no noise,” said Kim Hee-soo, 24, a shop manager in Itaewon. “It’s as if this place has stopped dead. It’s not the Itaewon that I have known.” | “人们还在街上走着，汽车还在行驶，但我听不到任何声音，”梨泰院24岁的商店经理金熙洙（音）说。“这地方好像死气沉沉的。这不是我认识的梨泰院。” |
| Since the disaster, an eerie sadness has prevailed in the neighborhood. Its streets and alleys, which usually never sleep, went dark early in the evening. Many shops were closed, and restaurants empty. | 灾难发生后，一种诡异的悲伤笼罩着这个社区。通常整夜灯火通明的街道和小巷，一到傍晚就黑下去。许多商店关了门，餐馆空无一人。 |
| In front of a pork-belly restaurant, a mourner had placed a lunch box of rice and kimchi, along with a bouquet of chrysanthemums — a traditional mourning flower in Korea — and a handwritten note: “My friend, I hope you will be in Heaven, be happy and enjoy your youth, which ended so soon in this world.” | 在一家五花肉餐馆前面，一名吊唁者放了一盒米饭和泡菜，还有一束菊花（韩国传统中表示哀悼）和一张手写的纸条：“我的朋友，我希望你能在天堂里，快乐地享受在这个世界上过早结束的青春。” |
| Built long before Seoul had city planning, Itaewon has always been something of an outlier among South Koreans. Decades ago, American G.I.s stationed at a nearby military base would visit the neighborhood to drink and unwind. Locals usually stayed away. After a time, the area gained a reputation as a place for foreigners. It also served as a conduit of Western culture — rock ‘n’ roll and reggae music, exotic foods and foreign fashion — at a time when South Korea was still a postwar, developing nation. | 梨泰院早在首尔制定城市规划之前就已建成，在韩国人心中一直属于异类。几十年前，驻扎在附近军事基地的美国大兵会到这里喝酒放松。当地人通常是不来的。一段时间后，该地区获得了外国人聚集地的名声。在韩国还是一个战后发展中国家的时候，它也是西方文化——摇滚乐、雷鬼音乐、异国美食和时尚——的传播渠道。 |
| Itaewon had to reinvent itself when the American military began relocating to Camp Humphreys, a gigantic base south of Seoul, a decade ago. But even before then, by the late 1990s, young people were starting to flock to its trendy bars and restaurants squeezed into old buildings and narrow alleyways. The neighborhood earned a new reputation as a place to escape the pressures of South Korean society, bound by Confucian hierarchies and conformist views. | 十年前，当美军开始向首尔以南的大型基地汉弗莱斯军营搬迁时，梨泰院不得不重新打造自己。但在此之前的1990年代末，年轻人就开始涌向这里，前往挤在老建筑和狭窄巷子里的时髦酒吧和餐馆。这个社区赢得了一个新的名声，在这里，人们可以逃避受儒家等级制度和守旧观念束缚的韩国社会所带来的压力。 |
| “When I think of Itaewon, the words that come to my mind are freedom, openness and diversity. You see foreigners here, you can experience foods from other cultures here,” said Byun Ji-sun, 25, a photographer having dinner with friends in one of the few kebab restaurants still open on a recent evening in Itaewon. “When young people say, ‘Let’s go to Itaewon,’ we mean, Let’s go clubbing and have fun.” | “一想到梨泰院，我的脑海里就会浮现出自由、开放和多样性。你在这里看到外国人，你可以在这里体验到其他文化的食物，”25岁的摄影师边智善（音）说。最近的一个晚上，他和朋友们在梨泰院少数几家仍在营业的烤肉店之一吃晚饭。“年轻人说‘去梨泰院吧’，意思是‘去泡吧，去寻欢作乐。” |
| A popular song from 2011 honored the neighborhood’s iconoclasm: “It’s a new world there, I tell you. There is music there, there is love there, there is the world there,” say the lyrics of “Itaewon Freedom.” “Children go to amusement parks. Old folks go to nursing homes. Kids go to kindergartens. But we go to Itaewon!” | 2011年的一首流行歌曲歌颂了这个社区的颠覆性：“我告诉你，那里是一个新世界。那里有音乐，那里有爱，那里有世界，”《梨泰院自由》的歌词唱道。“孩子们去游乐园。老人们去养老院。孩子们去幼儿园。但我们去梨泰院！” |
| Conservative Koreans have long frowned upon Itaewon as a symbol of harmful foreign influence, including the annual Halloween festivities that became one of the busiest nights of the year. A Christian church once triggered a scandal by sending missionary trainees to proselytize inside transgender bars in the area. | 长期以来，保守的韩国人一直对梨泰院嗤之以鼻，认为它象征着有害的外国影响，包括每年一度的万圣节庆祝活动，它是这里一年中最繁忙的夜晚之一。一家基督教会曾因派遣见习传教士进入该地区的跨性别人士酒吧传教而引发丑闻。 |
| When a coronavirus outbreak emerged in Itaewon in 2020, disease-control officials raided bars and restaurants, plastering doors with signs declaring them off-limits. Businesses were forced to shut down because of a lack of tourists. After coronavirus restrictions eased this year, Itaewon was just beginning to resemble its come-one, come-all self. | 2020年梨泰院暴发新冠疫情时，疾控官员突击检查酒吧和餐馆，在门上贴上了禁止进入的标志。由于游客不足，商家被迫歇业。在今年放宽了对新冠病毒的限制后，梨泰院才刚刚开始恢复过去热情好客的样子。 |
| Last Saturday, the first Halloween celebration since South Korea ended its pandemic rules, was to be something of a coming-out party. Throngs of young people poured out of Exit No. 1. Clubs and restaurants were ready to welcome as many customers as they could handle. The narrow alleyway where the crowd crush happened was a popular shortcut to many bars and clubs. | 上周六，自韩国结束大流行限制以来的第一个万圣节庆祝活动本该是一场回归派对。一大群年轻人从地铁1号出口涌出。俱乐部和餐馆已经准备好迎接尽可能多的顾客。发生人群推挤事故的狭窄小巷正是通往许多酒吧和俱乐部的热门捷径。 |
| “I think every special-effects makeup artist in the country had set up little stalls along that street and were applying fake, bloody wounds that looked so real,” said Tami Overby, a senior adviser at a global business strategy firm who frequently visits Seoul from the United States and walked the main Itaewon street last Saturday. “My last Halloween in Itaewon was 2019, and the crowd was nowhere near that large,” she said. “Never have I seen that many people in that small of a space.” | “我感觉这个国家所有的特效化妆师都在那条街上摆摊，帮人们画上看起来非常真实的血腥伤口，”一家全球商业战略公司的高级顾问塔米·奥弗比说。她经常从美国去往首尔，上周六走在梨泰院的主要街道上。“我在梨泰院参加的最后一个万圣节活动是2019年，人远没有那么多，”她说。“我从来没有见过这么多人挤在这么狭小的空间里。” |
| Partygoers surged into the alleyway from both directions, creating a deadly pressure. Few police officers were there to manage the crowd, even though the city had expected a particularly large number of people in Itaewon for the Halloween weekend. Desperate calls to the police went unheeded as victims were trampled and smothered. | 参加派对的人从两个方向涌入小巷，造成了致命的压力。几乎没有警察在那里管理人群，尽管该市预期万圣节周末在梨泰院聚集的人数会特别多。当受害者被踩踏和窒息时，绝望的报警电话没有得到重视。 |
| While the government continues investigating the tragedy — one of the worst peacetime disasters in South Korean history — a steady stream of people have visited the makeshift altar built around Exit No. 1. Buddhist monks have prayed. Citizens have lit candles and shared numerous handwritten notes, many written by friends of victims whose youthful dreams ended too soon. | 这是韩国历史上和平时期最严重的事故之一，在政府继续调查这场悲剧的同时，源源不断的人来到了地铁1号出口外的临时悼念场所。佛教僧侣们在超度死者。市民点燃了蜡烛，留下了许多手写留言，其中许多来自那些英年早逝的受害者的朋友。 |
| One of them was written by Baek Hyo-bin and addressed to her friend Yoon Je-yi: “I wish this were a long nightmare that I could wake up from,” Ms. Baek wrote. “I was embarrassed when you used to scream on the street and make those weird expressions of yours, but I now miss all of that so achingly.” | 其中一张纸条是白孝彬（音）写给她的朋友尹齐义（音）的：“我希望这是一场漫长的噩梦，我可以从中醒来，”她写道。“以前你在马路上大喊大叫，做出奇怪的表情时，我感到很尴尬，但现在我心痛地怀念这一切。” |
| Itaewon has been declared a “special diaster zone” since last Sunday. As Saturday night approached, there were signs that Itaewon was slowly coming back to life. Workers had swept floors and cleaned tables after a weeklong national mourning period. | 自上周日以来，梨泰院已被宣布为“特别灾难地区”。随着周六晚上的临近，梨泰院有慢慢恢复活力的迹象。在为期一周的全国哀悼期过后，工作人员清扫了地面，擦干净桌子。 |
| Near Seoul City Hall on Saturday, thousands of people holding candles filled six lanes, calling President Yoon Suk Yeol “the true culprit of the Itaewon disaster” for failing to prevent it. | 周六，在首尔市政厅附近，数千名手持蜡烛的民众挤满了六个车道，称总统尹锡悦未能防止它的发生，是“梨泰院灾难的真正罪魁祸首”。 |
| “Out with Yoon Suk Yeol!” they chanted. | “尹锡悦下台！“他们高呼。 |
| “Around this time of the year, my shop is supposed to be bustling with customers,” said Moon Myong-woo, sitting in a leather-goods shop his family has run for 30 years in Itaewon. “We thought business was finally coming back after the pandemic, but now we have this,” he said. “But I know I should not complain when I think of the victims and their families.” | “每年的这个时候，我家的店就应该挤满了顾客，”文明宇（音）坐在梨泰院一个自家经营了30年的皮具店里说。“我们原以为疫情过后生意终于可以恢复了，但现在遇到了这样的事情，”他说。“但我知道，一想到受害者和他们的家人时，我就不应该抱怨。” |
| Longtime residents of Itaewon still struggled to fathom the implications of the tragedy, wondering how it would affect the neighborhood’s image. Across the street from Mr. Moon’s shop, Oh Soo-hee, a real-estate agent, sat in her small office, her white pet dog at her feet. “How can we recover from this trauma?” she said. “So many young people died.” | 梨泰院的老居民仍在努力消化这场悲剧的影响，想知道它将如何影响该地区的形象。在文家皮具店的对面，房地产经纪人吴苏熙坐在她的小办公室里，脚边是她的白色宠物狗。“我们要如何才能从这种创伤中恢复过来？”她说。“死了这么多年轻人。” |
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