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| MOSCOW — On a recent evening in Red Square, a corps of elite paratroopers dressed in camouflage performed a battle-like dance with pyrotechnics. An Egyptian performer dressed as a pharaoh rode back and forth in a chariot wielding an ankh, the ancient Egyptian symbol of life, as a band played “Katyusha,” a Soviet-era patriotic war song. |
| 莫斯科——最近一个晚上，一群身着迷彩服的精锐伞兵在红场的烟花伴随下表演了一场战斗般的舞蹈。扮成法老王的埃及表演者站在来回滚动的战车上，挥舞着在古埃及象征着生命的安卡，乐队演奏苏联卫国战争歌曲《喀秋莎》。 |
| Nataliya Nikonova, 44, was one of thousands of spectators cheering from the bleachers at a festival celebrating the militaries of Russia and friendly nations including Belarus, India and Venezuela. |
| 在庆祝俄罗斯和白俄罗斯、印度和委内瑞拉等友好国家军队的节日上，44岁的娜塔莉亚·尼科诺娃是数千名在看台上欢呼的观众之一。 |
| “I was so thrilled that I just about lost my voice!” she said. |
| “我太激动了，我差点失声了！”她说。 |
| Russia’s army is now waging a slow-moving war that has left tens of thousands dead and contributed to global inflation and a surge in energy prices. |
| 俄罗斯军队现在正在打一场缓慢的战争，造成数万人死亡，并导致全球通货膨胀和能源价格飙升。 |
| But Ms. Nikonova said she hadn’t experienced many disruptions to her life in the past six months. |
| 但尼科诺娃说，在过去的六个月里，她的生活并没有受到太多干扰。 |
| “Nothing has really changed,” she said. “Sure, the prices went up, but we can endure that.” She rushed off to listen to an encore of “Katyusha” from the Egyptian Military Symphonic Band. |
| “没什么真正的变化，”她说。“当然，价格上涨了，但我们可以忍受。”她赶去听埃及军乐团返场演出的《喀秋莎》。 |
| Very little about day-to-day life seems to have changed in Moscow, where people have the financial resources to weather significant price increases, unlike much of the rest of the country. GUM, the luxury mall next to Red Square, is full of shoppers — though many Western stores like Prada, Gucci and Christian Dior are closed — and restaurants and theaters do thriving business. Moscow’s roads still teem with luxury cars like Lamborghinis and Porsches. |
| 莫斯科与该国其他大部分地区不同，在这里，人们有足够的财力来抵御物价的大幅上涨，日常生活看上去几乎没有什么变化。红场旁边的豪华购物中心GUM挤满了购物者——尽管Prada、Gucci和Christian Dior等许多西方品牌都关门了——餐馆和剧院生意兴隆。莫斯科的道路上仍然充斥着兰博基尼和保时捷等豪车。 |
| “A few stores closed because of sanctions, which is frustrating but not that bad,” said Yuliya, 18, a recent high-school graduate who was hanging out on a bench in Gorky Park, where Muscovites sunbathe, dance and rollerblade. She and her friends said they don’t really think about the fighting in Ukraine that often. |
| “一些商店因为制裁而关闭，这令人感到无奈，但还不是那么糟，”18岁的尤莉亚说，刚从高中毕业的她闲坐在高尔基公园的长椅上，莫斯科人在这个公园里晒日光浴、跳舞和滑旱冰。她和她的朋友说，她们并不太把乌克兰的战事放在心上。 |
| That detachment is exactly what President Vladimir V. Putin is counting on as he executes a domestic strategy of shielding Russians from the hardships of war — no draft, no mass funerals, no feelings of loss or conflict. Much of Russia’s effort on the battlefield has not gone as Mr. Putin had planned, but at home, he has mostly succeeded in making Russian life feel as normal as possible. |
| 这种脱节正是弗拉基米尔·V·普京总统希望的，他执行了一项保护俄罗斯人免受战争苦难的国内战略——没有征兵，没有大规模葬礼，没有损失或冲突的感受。俄罗斯在战场上的大部分行动并没有按照普京的计划进行，但在国内，他基本上成功地让俄罗斯人的生活尽可能正常。 |
| Most museums and theaters are open, as long as their leadership didn’t criticize the Kremlin, and on summer evenings, party boats with effusive revelers ply the nearby Moskva River and people picnic in the grass. The fall seasons in opera and ballet have just begun — though a few anticipated premieres and ongoing productions have been canceled after their directors and stars spoke against the war or fled the country. |
| 大多数博物馆和剧院都是开放的，只要他们的领导层没有批评克里姆林宫。在夏季的晚上，人们在草地上野餐，派对游船载着喧闹的狂欢者穿梭于附近的莫斯科河。歌剧和芭蕾舞剧的秋季演出季才刚刚开始——尽管有一些备受期待的首演和正在制作中的作品被取消，因为作品的导演和主演发表了反战言论或逃离了该国。 |
| “What Russians normally do is protect their everyday lives,” said Greg Yudin, a professor of political philosophy at the Moscow School of Social and Economic Sciences, describing a coping mechanism that dates from the Soviet period but became widespread during Mr. Putin’s tenure. |
| “俄罗斯人通常的做法是保护他们的日常生活，”莫斯科社会与经济科学学院政治哲学教授格雷格·尤丁说，他描述了一种可以追溯到苏联时期、但在普京时代变得普遍的因应机制。 |
| “This is the thing that they always prioritize and that they excel at,” he said of Russia’s leadership, “and they are doing that now with a considerable degree of success, I would say.” |
| “这是他们一直优先考虑和擅长的事情，”他谈到俄罗斯的领导层时说，“我觉得，他们现在正在这样做并取得了相当大的成功。” |
| But while many Muscovites embrace revelry and willful ignorance, many of the capital’s intelligentsia, whose work and life tied them to the West or to Ukraine, are struggling to reconcile the feeling of normalcy with the enormity of being engaged in Europe’s biggest land war since World War II. |
| 但是，尽管许多莫斯科人尽情狂欢并愿意对一些事情视若无睹，但首都的许多知识分子的工作和生活将他们与西方或乌克兰联系在一起，被卷入欧洲自二战以来最大的战争所带来的艰巨负担使他们难以说服自己一切如常。 |
| That was evident on Saturday in the outpouring of sympathy and appreciation for the former Soviet leader Mikhail S. Gorbachev, expressed by thousands of Russians attending his funeral, who represented a silent protest against Mr. Putin and his policies. |
| 这在周六得以体现，数千名俄罗斯人参加了米哈伊尔·S·戈尔巴乔夫的葬礼，表达了对这位前苏联领导人的哀悼和赞赏，他们代表了对普京及其政策的无声抗议。 |
| As soon as Russian tanks rolled into Ukraine, said Anya, she started reading books about the rise of totalitarianism in Nazi Germany and grappling with the concept of collective guilt. |
| 安雅说，俄罗斯坦克一开进乌克兰，她就开始阅读有关纳粹德国极权主义兴起的书籍，奋力去理解集体罪责这个概念。 |
| “It was the end of the world for so many people,” said Anya, 34. Like several others interviewed for this article, she did not want to provide her last name for fear of retribution. |
| “这对于太多人来说是世界末日，”34岁的安雅说。和本文其他几位接受采访的人一样，她不想透露自己的姓氏，以免遭到报复。 |
| “In your name, someone is killing civilians,’’ she said. “And your country is turning into something like North Korea.” |
| “有人在以你的名义杀害平民，”她说。“而你的国家正在变得像朝鲜一样。” |
| She said she went to a protest and signed an antiwar petition, and several days later, she was invited to resign from her job at a public institution. |
| 她说她参加了抗议并签署了一份反战请愿书，几天后，她被促请辞去在公共机构的工作。 |
| For many years, Mr. Putin has been cracking down on dissent and protesters, but today it is almost impossible to express disenchantment with the system, and people expressing their views do so with the knowledge that a new law punishes criticism of the war. Almost 16,500 people have been arrested on charges of protesting the aggression in Ukraine since Feb. 24, according to OVD-Info, a Russian human rights organization. |
| 多年来，普京一直在镇压异议人士和抗议者，但在今天表达对体制的失望几乎是不可能的事，人们在表达自己观点的同时知道批评战争会受到新法律的惩罚。据俄罗斯人权组织OVD-Info称，自2月24日以来，已有近16500人因抗议乌克兰的侵略而被捕。 |
| Russians who oppose the fighting feel despised and threatened by their government, spurned by the West — which they believe blames them for not protesting the invasion — and powerless to bring about any change. |
| 反对这场战争的俄罗斯人感到被他们的政府蔑视和威胁，还被西方唾弃——他们认为西方指责他们没有抗议入侵——并且无力带来任何改变。 |
| “We all have this feeling of impotence,” said Anya. “The fact that you exist and have your opinion doesn’t mean anything. There are five, 10, 20 million of us. And it doesn’t make any difference.” |
| “我们都有这种无能的感觉，”安雅说。“你的存在和你的观点都不构成任何意义。无论我们有500万、1000万还是2000万人。没有任何区别。” |
| Muscovites like Anya spent the first months after the conflict started anxious and uncertain. Tens of thousands of them fled. But over the summer, the capital largely returned to normal, buoyed by a soaring ruble, a silenced opposition and a news media almost completely under the Kremlin’s control. |
| 冲突后的头几个月，像安雅这样的莫斯科人开始焦虑不安。数以万计的人逃离。但在整个夏天，卢布飙升，反对派被噤声，新闻媒体几乎完全在克里姆林宫的掌控之中，首都在这些因素的驱动下基本恢复了正常。 |
| Still, society is changing slowly: While Mr. Putin has sought to infuse a sense of normalcy, he is also working to further militarize Russian society. |
| 尽管如此，社会正在缓慢地发生变化：普京试图注入一种正常感的同时，也在努力让俄罗斯社会进一步军事化。 |
| Along Moscow’s artery roads there are billboards of soldiers listing their rank and title, with a QR code to scan for more information. And there is no shortage of events celebrating Russia’s military might. |
| 莫斯科的交通干道上有士兵的宣传广告牌，上面列出他们的军衔和头衔，并有二维码可供扫描，以获取更多信息，也不乏各种赞美俄罗斯军事力量的活动。 |
| Thousands of spectators gathered at the Alabino army training ground southwest of Moscow over two weeks to watch the Army International Games, a festival that includes a Tank Biathlon, in which international teams compete to drive a tank through natural obstacles and fire accurately at targets. (Since 2013, when the competition started, Russia has always come in first place.) |
| 两周以来，数以千计的观众聚集在莫斯科西南的阿拉比诺陆军训练场，观看国际陆军运动会。这个节日还包括坦克冬季两项比赛，其中各国参赛队要驾驶坦克穿过自然障碍物，并精确射击目标。（自2013年该项比赛开始以来，俄罗斯一直是第一名。） |
| “I’ve been seeing tanks on TV for all this time; I wanted to see them in real life,” said Ilya, 34, who drove out to the event from Moscow with his children, 11 and 4. |
| “我在电视上总能看到坦克，我想在现实生活里看到它们，”34岁的伊利亚说，他带着11岁和四岁的孩子从莫斯科开车来参加活动。 |
| “I think every war is bad; I am not saying I support the ‘Special Military Operation,’ or don’t,” he said, using Mr. Putin’s term for the hostilities in Ukraine. “But I trust the leadership in my country, and if they say it is necessary, then it is.” |
| “我认为所有战争都是不好的；我并不是说我支持‘特别军事行动’，也不是说我不支持，”他说，“特别军事行动”是普京对乌克兰战事的说法。“但我相信我们国家的领导层，如果他们说有必要，那就是有必要的。” |
| Others said that seeing the weapons on display at the army festival — including Kinzhal missiles being used in Ukraine — made them feel as if they had come from a strong country. |
| 其他人说，看到军事节上展示的武器——包括在乌克兰使用的“匕首”导弹——让他们感觉自己的国家很强大。 |
| Andrei Yevgenyevich, 55, who was a tank driver in Soviet-controlled Germany in the last days of the Cold War, said the weapons display brought him back to the days when the Soviet Union was a strong and feared global power. |
| 在冷战的最后日子里，现年55岁的安德烈·叶夫根耶维奇曾在苏联控制下的德国担任坦克驾驶员。他说，武器展示让他回想起苏联还是一个强大的、令人畏惧的全球大国的时候。 |
| “When you see this, you trust that all is well in your country, that everything is as it should be,” he said. |
| “看到这些，你就会相信你的国家一切都很好，一切都像它应该的那样，”他说。 |
| “We were raised in the Soviet tradition, and we love our motherland. This brings pride to our country.” |
| “我们是在苏联的传统中长大的，我们热爱祖国。这给我们的国家带来了自豪感。” |
| As for the sanctions, he said: “I don’t feel any difference. I think America and the West are suffering far more.” |
| 至于制裁，他说：“我没有感觉到任何不同。我认为美国和西方国家遭受的痛苦要大得多。” |
| This is a common refrain on Russian television. State-run media produce daily segments about the uncertainty countries like Germany are facing over gas prices and soaring inflation in Europe and the United States. |
| 这是俄罗斯电视台经常重复的一句话。国有媒体每天都会制作节目，报道德国等国家因天然气价格和欧美通货膨胀飙升而面临不确定性。 |
| At the army training grounds, children scrambled over tanks, including one that said, “Smash the Fascists,” and people of all ages shot automatic rifles. But booths inviting visitors to sign a contract to join the army stood empty, save for the recruiters, indicating that even if nationalism is rising, people are not ready to fight Mr. Putin’s war. |
| 在陆军训练场，孩子们争先恐后地爬上坦克，其中一辆坦克上写着“粉碎法西斯”，各个年龄段的人在用自动步枪射击。但邀请参观者签署参军合同的摊位前面空无一人，只有招募人员。这表明，即使民族主义情绪高涨，人们也没有准备好参与普京的战争。 |
| “Not a lot of people are coming right now,” one military recruiter said, declining to give his name, as the sounds of shots from the nearby firing range could be heard. |
| “现在来的人不多，”一名拒绝透露姓名的征兵人员说，与此同时，可以听到附近靶场传来的枪声。 |
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