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中国清零政策下的国内旅行:滞留与隔离成为常态
Trouble in Paradise: Chinese Tourists Left Stranded During Lockdowns

来源:纽约时报    2022-08-22 04:23



        A few days into a two-week tour through the island province of Hainan — known as the Hawaii of China — Nicole Chan received a message from local authorities that no traveler in the country wants to see in the pandemic.
        为期两周的海南之旅——这个岛屿省份被称为“中国夏威夷”——刚开始没几天,妮可·陈(音)就收到了地方当局发出的让疫情期间全国旅客避之不及的信息。
        On Aug. 3, a day after officials reported 11 cases of Covid-19 in Sanya, a city of more than one million in Hainan, Ms. Chan was identified by the authorities as at risk because she had been in the area that day. She was told to quarantine right away for a three-day monitoring period and to undergo two coronavirus tests.
        8月3日,也就是官员报告人口超百万的海南城市三亚出现11例新冠病例的第二天,妮可·陈被当局认定属于高风险人群,因为她当天曾去过那里。她被告知要立刻隔离监测三天时间,并接受两次新冠病毒检测。
        After her isolation period was over and her tests negative, Ms. Chan, a freelance videographer, was told that she was not allowed to come to the airport because she had traveled to Sanya. It took 10 more days, 10 canceled flights and more than a dozen negative test results before she was permitted to leave the island and fly back to Shanghai, where she lives.
        在单独隔离结束且检测结果都为阴性后,作为自由视频制作人的妮可·陈又被告知,因为曾去三亚旅行,她不可以前往机场。又过了10天,经历了10次航班取消以及十几次检测结果阴性后,她才被允许离岛,飞回她所居住的上海。
        With China’s borders still shut, some people have turned to domestic travel to find relief from the aggressive testing, mass quarantines and widespread lockdowns that have become common in cities across the country. But China’s commitment to ensuring no Covid-19 cases in a population of 1.4 billion people has meant that even domestic tourists risk traveling to the wrong place at the wrong time and getting stuck there.
        因为中国边境仍然关闭,一些民众转向国内旅行,在过度核酸检测、大规模隔离和大范围封锁成为全国各城市普遍现象的情况下寻求一些喘息空间。但在拥有14亿人口的中国,将新冠病例清零的承诺意味着,即便是国内游客也将面临因在错误的时间去错误的地点旅游而被困在当地的风险。
        “It’s like playing Russian roulette with travel,” Ms. Chan said. “So much of it is out of your hands and out of your control.”
        “这就像在旅行中玩俄罗斯轮盘赌的游戏,”妮可·陈说。“太多事情都超出了你能掌控的范围。”
        Over the last month, during the height of the summer travel season, China has shut down popular travel destinations in Hainan, Tibet and Xinjiang after outbreaks in those areas, stranding tens of thousands of tourists. In some cases, the tourists are on the hook to pay for their own hotel quarantines. In Sanya, the government ordered hotels to offer 50 percent discounts to stranded guests.
        在上个月的夏季旅游旺季,中国已经封锁了海南、西藏和新疆等有疫情暴发的热门旅游目的地,导致数以万计的旅客滞留。在某些情况下,旅客需要自行承担酒店隔离费用。在三亚,政府要求酒店为滞留旅客提供半价折扣。
        China’s hard-line approach of doing whatever it takes to keep Covid-19 under wraps — testing live fish in the port city of Xiamen, among countless other pandemic protocols — has taken a toll on the economy and weighed on the psyche of its citizens.
        包括在港口城市厦门给活鱼做检测以及无数其他防疫手段在内,中国不惜一切代价控制新冠疫情的强硬政策已经对经济造成了影响,并给国民心理带来负担。
        Travel offers little escape.
        旅行基本不能带来逃离喧嚣的慰藉。
        Chinese citizens are not allowed to go overseas for “nonessential” trips. Traveling within the country involves navigating a maze of ever-changing quarantine rules and testing requirements that vary by region — and that’s a best-case scenario.
        中国公民不得出国进行“非必要”旅行。在国内出游则要面临各地错综复杂且不断变化的检疫政策和检测要求,而这还是最乐观的情况。
        In Sanya, the local government suspended local public transportation and halted sales of rail tickets as part of a citywide lockdown on Aug. 6. A day later, all flights departing from Sanya were canceled.
        在三亚,作为全市封锁的部分措施,当地政府于8月6日暂停了当地的公共交通,并停售火车票。一天后,所有从三亚出发的航班都被取消。
        Even though flights were canceled for at least a week, crowds gathered at the airport demanding to leave, according to local media. Videos of angry travelers chanting “Go home, go home, we are going home!” quickly spread online.
        据当地媒体报道,尽管距离航班被取消已有至少一周时间,但仍有人群聚集在机场要求离开。愤怒的旅客高喊“回家,回家,我们要回家!”的视频在网上迅速传播。
        Nearby places such as Haikou, the capital of Hainan Province, and Wanning, a popular surfing spot, also shut down to curb the spread of the virus.
        三亚附近如海南省会海口和冲浪胜地万宁这样的地方也以遏制病毒传播为由封城。
        Michelle Chen, a 30-year-old engineer, traveled to Sanya for a five-day beach vacation with her husband. It was the first trip that she had taken in two years, a getaway after a two-month lockdown in Shanghai. She found the experience in Sanya “surreal,” she said.
        30岁的工程师米歇尔·陈(音)与丈夫前往三亚开始为期五天的海滩假期。这是她两年来第一次旅行,是经历上海两个月封城后的逍遥游。她说感觉自己在三亚的经历堪称“魔幻”。
        One day, people were on the beach having fun in bikinis, and the next they were trying to flee with their luggage — only to encounter a police blockade on the highway.
        前一天人们还穿着比基尼在海滩上玩耍,第二天就都带着行李设法逃跑,结果却在高速路上遭遇警察路障封锁。
        Ms. Chen and her husband were stranded in Sanya for an additional week, unable to leave their hotel room until they secured seats on a flight chartered by the Sanya government on Aug. 13. Now she’s unsure whether she wants to travel again for leisure.
        米歇尔·陈和丈夫又在三亚滞留了一周,在8月13日得到三亚政府提供的包机座位之前,他们不能离开酒店房间。现在,她不确定自己是否还想再去旅游休闲了。
        “I may not travel again for a year except for going home or business trips,” she said. “I really wouldn’t dare to travel in the future without good reason.”
        “我感觉可能一年之内除了回家以外或者是要出差以外,我可能不会旅行,”她说。“(以后)的确是不太敢随便旅行。”
        Other popular tourist destinations also experienced lockdowns after reporting confirmed Covid-19 cases. When Tibet reported 22 cases on Aug. 8, the first positive results in more than two years, the local government locked down a few popular stops in the area and closed some tourist destinations.
        其他热门旅游目的地报告确诊新冠病例后也遭遇封锁。当西藏在8月8日报告了两年多以来首批22例病例之后,当地政府封锁了几个热门去处,并关闭了一些旅游景点。
        As of Tuesday, more than 4,700 tourists were stranded in Tibet.
        截至上周二,已有4700多名游客滞留在西藏。
        Xinjiang, a prime vacation spot for outdoor enthusiasts in northwest China, has had similar challenges, with thousands of tourists prohibited from leaving the region after a recent outbreak. According to an official in Ili Prefecture, the group included not just people who had tested positive for Covid-19, but also their close contacts, close contacts of those close contacts and people staying in medium and high-risk areas.
        在中国西北的户外旅游黄金胜地新疆也面临类似的挑战,在最近出现疫情后,数以千计的旅客被禁止离开该地区。据伊犁州一名官员介绍,这些人里不仅有新冠阳性者,还有密接者、密接者的密接者,以及处于中高风险地区的人员。
        The severity and duration of the lockdowns has made domestic travel less appealing. In the first six months of this year, the number of domestic tourists in China is down 22 percent from the same period a year earlier, and tourism revenue is down 28 percent over that period, according to the country’s Ministry of Culture and Tourism.
        封锁的严厉和持久降低了民众国内出游的意愿。根据中国文旅部的数据,今年上半年,中国国内游客数量同比下降22%,旅游收入同比下降28%。
        For Zhu Yan, who owns a 16-room hostel by Qionghai Lake, a scenic destination in Xichang, a city in Sichuan Province in southwest China, the tourism business has gotten worse as the pandemic has lingered on. In 2020 and 2021, tourists returned quickly even after periods of lockdowns, she said, with most people choosing to travel within their own provinces.
        朱燕(音)在中国四川西昌市的景区邛海湖畔经营一家有16间客房的旅社,对她而言,随着疫情的持续,旅游生意越来越难做。在2020年和2021年,即使经历一段时间的封锁,旅客也回来得很快,因为大多数人都选择在所居省份旅游。
        But this year, private companies and public institutions are telling employees not to leave the cities where they live for fear of exposure to Covid-19 and being trapped somewhere else, said Ms. Zhu, 40.
        但40岁的朱燕说,今年不管是私企还是公立机构都在告诉员工,不要离开所居城市,以免接触到新冠病毒,被困在其他地方。
        “This year, no one came out, including holidays. No one,” she said, about the first half of the year. Business has picked up slightly in recent weeks, she said.
        “今年是一直就没有人出来,包括节假日都没有人,”她这样描述上半年的状况。她说近几周生意还是略有起色。
        The headaches of traveling in China during the pandemic involve difficulties not just with leaving a place dealing with an outbreak, but also with returning home.
        疫情期间在中国出行的难处不仅在于如何离开一个出现疫情的地方,也在于如何回家。
        Ms. Chan, who was stranded in Hainan, had gone to the island for work. Three colleagues from Beijing who traveled with her had to remain behind because they were told that the capital city would not yet let them return.
        滞留于海南的妮可·陈是因为工作才来到这里。与她同行的三位北京同事不得不继续滞留当地,因为他们被告知,首都还不允许他们返程。
        When Ms. Chan finally caught a flight back to Shanghai on Tuesday, she said her plane remained on the tarmac for two hours as medical professionals boarded the aircraft. It was an additional three hours before she arrived at a quarantine hotel, where the travelers finally received some food, and workers came to their rooms to administer PCR tests.
        周二,当妮可·陈终于搭上返回上海的航班,她说飞机在停机坪上停了两个小时,有医务人员登机。又过了三个小时她才到达隔离酒店,旅客们终于得到了一些食物,工作人员会进入他们的房间做核酸检测。
        On Wednesday, Ms. Chan left the hotel expecting to begin a three-day period of at-home quarantine, as required by the city. Instead, she was told by a neighborhood official that she would have to quarantine for a full seven days, she said. By the time she arrived at her apartment, it had been 37 hours since she left Hainan — usually, a two-and-a-half-hour flight from Shanghai, she said.
        周三,妮可·陈离开酒店,准备按照市政府的要求开始三天居家隔离。但一名街道官员告诉她,必须隔离整整七天才行。她说,当她终于回到自己的公寓时,距离离开海南已经过了37个小时,通常上海到海南的飞行时间也就两个半小时。
        So why would she travel to Hainan in the first place?
        那她当初为何要去海南呢?
        Ms. Chan, 27, said she was there shooting a promotional video for tourism in Hainan, an irony that was not lost on her.
        27岁的妮可·陈说,她去那里是要拍摄一条海南旅游的宣传片,这在她看来就是一种讽刺。
        “Since Covid started in 2020, I’ve done very limited travel within China,” she said. “This experience has made it even less likely. There is too much risk.”
        “自从2020年新冠疫情开始以来,我在中国国内的旅行是非常有限的,”她说。“这次经历让旅行变得更加不可能了。风险实在太大了。”
        
        
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