| 双语新闻 Bilingual News | 双语对照阅读 分级系列阅读 智能辅助阅读 在线英语学习 |
|
| 双语新闻 Bilingual News | 双语对照阅读 分级系列阅读 智能辅助阅读 在线英语学习 |
| [英文] [中文] [双语对照] [双语交替] [] |
| EMERYVILLE, Calif. — In the bustling open kitchen of Good to Eat Dumplings, the chef Tony Tung makes long, evenly stretched, generously filled Taiwanese dumplings. The bottoms are crunchy and golden, and the filling is unembellished but irresistible — a juicy mix of pork, shrimp and shredded cabbage, lightly perfumed with scallions and sesame oil. | 加州埃默里维尔——在Good to Eat Dumplings餐厅忙碌的开放式厨房里，大厨托尼·董（音）正在制作把面抻成长条形的大馅台湾锅贴。锅贴松脆的底部呈金黄色，馅料普通却让人无法抗拒——有猪肉、有虾，还有卷心菜丝，嫩滑多汁不说，还散发着葱花和芝麻油的淡淡香味。 |
| Ms. Tung was born and raised in Taichung City, Taiwan, and when she started cooking at pop-ups here five years ago, she was surprised to find that so many diners outside of the Taiwanese American community were unaware of Taiwanese food. Oh, you mean Thai food! | 董女士在台湾的台中市出生、长大。五年前开始在这里的一些快闪店当厨师时，她惊讶地发现，很多台裔之外的食客完全不了解台湾美食。哦，你说的是泰国菜吧！ |
| Sir, no. It sounds discouraging, but Ms. Tung and her wife and business partner, Angie Lin, decided to treat every question, no matter how obtuse, as an opening. Maybe explaining their ingredients, techniques and flavors could deepen customers’ context and appreciation for Taiwan. Maybe the deliciousness of the food could leverage someone’s curiosity. | 不是，先生。这种对话听来令人沮丧，但董女士和她的妻子、生意伙伴安琪·林（音）决定，不管问题多么幼稚，她们都要把每个问题当作一个契机。或许，解释它们的食材、烹饪诀窍和口味可以加深顾客对台湾的了解和认识。也许，美味可以激发人们的好奇心。 |
| At their new restaurant, which opened in May, Ms. Tung cooks as Ms. Lin hops from table to table, chatting with diners. You might hear her explain that earlier iterations of Taiwanese cuisine were more rice-centered, before Chinese immigrants brought wheat farming to the island, and before the United States shipped wheat over in mass, as part of a 15-year program after World War II. | 在5月开业的新餐厅里，董女士负责厨房，林女士则忙着招呼客人。你能听到她在跟人解释，台湾人以前主要是吃米饭的，后来随着中国移民的到来，以及作为“二战”后美援15年计划的一部分，小麦来到了台湾。 |
| Here’s one way to look at Ms. Tung’s work: She is simply cooking the food she knows and loves, with great care and attention to detail. And here’s another: As Taiwan makes headlines and faces threats of violence from the Chinese government, as it has since Speaker Nancy Pelosi’s recent visit, cooking Taiwanese food can be a way of illuminating the nuances obscured by that news. | 我们可以通过这样一个角度来观察董女士的工作：她不过是在悉心烹饪她熟悉和喜欢的食物，不放过每一个细节。还有另外一个角度：自从众议院议长佩洛西不久前访台后，台湾面临中国的恫吓威胁、登上世界的头条新闻，烹饪台湾美食可以让人看到被新闻掩盖的细微差别。 |
| Ms. Tung’s cooking is bright, delicate and constantly changing to include dishes like pickled bitter melon and opo squash leaves with sesame paste. “Beef noodle soup, stinky tofu — people know those dishes,” she said. “But in Taiwan, we’re not eating those every single day.” | 董女士做的菜色泽鲜艳、精致，而且富于变化，菜式包括凉拌苦瓜和麻酱拌瓠瓜叶等。“大家都知道牛肉面、臭豆腐，”她说。“但在台湾，我们也不是每天都吃这些东西。” |
| About once a month, the couple sells prepaid tickets to a multicourse dinner of more elaborate and labor-intensive dishes, many of them drawn from Taiwanese banquet traditions. They say they rarely have to start the conversation about Taiwan from scratch anymore. | 大约每个月，这对伴侣都会出售一次餐券，提供多道菜的晚餐。这些菜品更为精致，制作过程更耗时，其中许多都是台湾的传统宴席菜。她们说，现在不用再跟人从零开始介绍台湾了。 |
| The complexity of Taiwanese identity makes it both unique and hard to delineate in the United States. | 台湾人身份的复杂性使其在美国既独特又难以界定。 |
| That’s because it can involve more than a shared place of birth, language, race or lineage, and because the Census Bureau still doesn’t offer “Taiwanese” as an option on its forms. Experts have struggled to report the precise number of people who identify as Taiwanese here, but the Pew Research Center approximated a very wide range in 2019, somewhere between 195,000 to 697,000. | 这不仅仅是因为涉及共同的出生地、语言、种族或血统，也是因为人口普查局的表格上还没有“台湾人”这个选项。专家们一直在努力搞清楚美国究竟生活着多少台湾人，但皮尤研究中心在2019年给出了一个范围非常宽泛的估算数字，大约在大约在19.5万至69.7万之间。 |
| Taiwanese cuisine — layered, distinct, multiethnic — faces similar issues of visibility. The food of Taiwan, a self-governing democracy that has never been part of the People’s Republic of China, is often subsumed under the umbrella description of Chinese. For China’s government, which seeks unification, the conflation is convenient, and even strategic. | 层次感强、特色鲜明、具多民族特色的台湾美食也面临着类似的能见度问题。台湾是一个自治的民主政体，从来都不是中华人民共和国的一部分，但它的食物经常被归入“中餐”的范畴。对于寻求统一的中国政府来说，这种混为一谈不仅方便，甚至具有战略性目的。 |
| But considering Taiwan only in terms of its relationship to China is limiting. Taiwan’s cuisine has been shaped by many cultural forces, including the island’s Indigenous tribes, who have lived and cooked with its native ingredients for thousands of years; long-established groups of Fujianese and Hakka people; a period of Japanese colonial rule; and the wave of refugees who started arriving from China in 1949, bringing along regional foods that they adapted over time. | 但仅从与中国的关系角度考虑台湾是存在局限性的。台湾美食受到许多文化力量的影响，包括岛上的原住民部落，几千年来他们生活在这里并用当地食材烹饪；历史悠久的福建人和客家人群体；日本殖民统治时期；以及1949年开始从中国抵达的难民潮，他们带来了老家的食物，并慢慢进行了改良。 |
| “Even the dishes that came from Chinese immigrants have evolved over the last 70 years to be totally unique to our island,” said Clarissa Wei, a Taiwanese American journalist who lives in Taipei and is working on a Taiwanese cookbook. “They’re the products of refugees who merged their culinary practices.” | “即使是来自中国移民的菜肴，在过去的70年里也已经演变成台湾独有的美食，”住在台北并正在编写台湾菜谱的美籍台湾记者魏贝珊说。“它们是融合了各种做菜方法的难民产物。” |
| Vivian Ku, a Los Angeles chef and restaurateur, grew up in Bakersfield, where her parents, who immigrated from Taiwan, farmed vegetables such as garlic, chives, amaranth and honeydew melons. | 洛杉矶厨师兼餐馆老板薇薇安·顾（音）在贝克斯菲尔德长大，父母是来自台湾的移民，在贝克斯菲尔德种植大蒜、韭菜、苋菜和蜜瓜等。 |
| “I always tell our team that Taiwanese food is a representation of so many styles, on an island of so many people clustered together,” Ms. Ku said. “Yes, it can get complicated — can you call it Taiwanese, where is it from originally? — but when it hits Taiwan, it’s different. And it’s different here, too.” | “我总是告诉我们的团队，在聚集了这么多人的岛屿上，台湾菜代表了许多风味，”顾女士说。“是的，它可以变得复杂——你能叫它台湾菜吗？它最初来自哪里？——但当它一旦到了台湾就不一样了。来到这里也不一样了。” |
| An influx of Taiwanese immigrants arrived in the Los Angeles area after the Immigration and Nationality Act of 1965, settling in neighborhoods like Monterey Park, the San Gabriel Valley and parts of Orange County. The region is now home to one of the largest Taiwanese American diasporas in the country. | 1965年《移民和国籍法》颁布后，大批台湾移民涌入洛杉矶地区，定居在蒙特利公园、圣盖博谷和橙县部分地区。这个地区现在是美国最大的台裔侨居地之一。 |
| Ms. Ku opened Pine & Crane in 2014, after working with relatives in a beef-noodle shop and cooking at a banquet-style restaurant in Taiwan. Her small group of Taiwanese restaurants now employs about 180 people. | 顾女士于2014年开了松鹤面庄(Pine & Crane)，此前她曾与亲戚一起在一家牛肉面店工作，并在台湾一家宴会式餐厅当厨师。她的几家台湾餐馆现在雇佣了大约180名员工。 |
| At the second location of Pine & Crane, which recently opened in downtown Los Angeles, a team of cooks serves one of the most delicious breakfasts in the city. | 最近在洛杉矶市中心开业的松鹤面庄第二家店，厨师团队提供该市最美味的早餐之一。 |
| The fan tuan are hefty, compact, portable exhibitions of texture: sweet, delicate pork floss, crisp pickles, crunchy youtiao and soy-braised eggs. The warm, salty soy milk, which sets into delicate curds when it’s spiked with black vinegar, is a comfort. | 饭团展示出厚实、紧凑、便携的质地：香甜细腻的猪肉松、脆爽的泡菜、松脆的油条和卤蛋。温热的咸豆浆在加入黑醋后会凝结成细腻的凝乳，让人备感慰藉。 |
| Ms. Ku has never considered her work of serving Taiwanese food to be a form of representation, or any kind of political statement, but rather an extension of her love for it. “It’s just hard for it to not seem political when you’re affiliated with Taiwan,” she said. | 顾女士从不认为她做台湾菜的工作是一种表现形式，或任何的政治声明，而是她对台湾美食热爱的延伸。“但当你与台湾有关联时，这很难看起来不带有政治色彩，”她说。 |
| In her research, Ms. Wei found that the idea of distinguishing Taiwanese cuisine started to really take hold on the island in the 1980s, as the country transitioned from a military dictatorship to a democracy. | 魏贝珊在研究中发现，在1980年代，随着台湾从军事独裁走向民主，让台湾美食自成一派的想法开始真正在岛上扎根。 |
| She noted a major turning point in 2000, when Chen Shui-bian was elected president and his inaugural feast celebrated Taiwanese small dishes like milkfish ball soup from Tainan City over Chinese banquet foods. | 她注意到一个主要转折点是在2000年，当时陈水扁被选为总统，他的就职盛宴奉上台湾小菜，例如台南的虱目鱼丸汤，而不是中式宴会菜肴。 |
| But it’s not that Taiwanese food wasn’t flourishing before this. “In my parents’ era, Taiwan was under martial law, and they were told they were culturally Chinese. Before that, in my grandparents’ era, Taiwan was under Japanese colonial rule,” Ms. Wei said. “We didn’t control our narrative.” | 但这并不是说台湾美食在此之前没有蓬勃发展。“在我父母的时代，台湾处于戒严时期，他们被告知他们在文化上是中国人。在那之前，在我祖父母的时代，台湾处于日本的殖民统治之下，”魏贝珊说。“我们不能控制我们的叙事。” |
| Revisiting that narrative now, and digging up its multiplicities and erasures, is an essential part of the work for so many chefs and writers. At Good to Eat Dumplings, Ms. Lin and Ms. Tung have found that through research, phone calls and even just talking about their food in depth with other Taiwanese diners, they’re learning more themselves. | 现在重新审视这种叙事，挖掘它的多样性和被抹除的部分，是许多厨师和作家的重要工作之一。在Good to Eat Dumplings，林女士和董女士发现，通过研究、打电话甚至只是与其他台湾食客深入讨论他们的食物，她们就学到了很多。 |
| “The more we do this,” Ms. Tung said, “the more stories we have to tell.” | “我们做的越多，”董女士说，“可以讲的故事就越多。” |
| On the patio, Ms. Lin weaves around the tables greeting diners, making empty plates of her wife’s minced pork noodles disappear. Someone is marveling at the Taiwanese golden kimchi — a crisp, sweet, habit-forming pile of pickled cabbage in an almost creamy slick of fermented tofu and carrots. | 在院子里，林女士穿梭于餐桌与食客打招呼，端走妻子做的肉臊面的空盘。有人对台湾的黄金泡菜赞叹不已——一种脆爽甘甜、越吃越爱吃的泡菜，里面夹着几乎奶油般丝滑的腐乳和胡萝卜。 |
| There are questions about the seasoning on the fried peanuts, and there are questions, always, about Taiwanese cuisine and how to define it. “It’s hard to explain,” Ms. Lin says at one point. The diners go quiet, waiting for her to go on. | 食客们会询问炸花生用了什么调味品，也总会问到台湾菜，以及它如何定义。“这很难解释，”林女士有一次说。食客们安静下来，等她婉婉道来。 |
| Good to Eat Dumplings, 1298 65th Street, Suite 1, Emeryville, Calif.; 510-922-9885; goodtoeatdumplings.com | Good to Eat Dumplings, 1298 65th Street, Suite 1, Emeryville, Calif.; 510-922-9885; goodtoeatdumplings.com |
| Pine & Crane, 1120 South Grand Avenue, Unit 101, Los Angeles; 213-536-5292; pineandcrane.com | Pine & Crane, 1120 South Grand Avenue, Unit 101, Los Angeles; 213-536-5292; pineandcrane.com |
OK阅读网 版权所有(C)2017 | 联系我们