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坐上重获新生的“热狗巴士”,寻一段香港青春记忆
A Memory That Moves: A Decrepit Hong Kong Double-Decker Bus Gets New Life

来源:纽约时报    2022-07-11 04:53



        HONG KONG — Pedestrians stopped in their tracks and stared. Passengers in vehicles craned their necks and waved. Schoolboys in uniform ran like paparazzi angling for the perfect shot. They were all riveted by a cream-colored double-decker bus with ketchup-red trims on the top and bottom swerving last month into an open-air terminal.        香港——行人停下脚步,目不转睛地观看。车上的乘客们伸长脖子挥手致意。穿校服的学生像狗仔队一样跑来跑去,想拍出完美的照片。上个月,一辆顶部和底部装饰着番茄酱红色的奶油色双层巴士突然转向,驶入一个露天车站,吸引了所有人的目光。
        Vintage buses of this variety, nicknamed “hot dog buses” for their lack of air conditioning, have not picked up passengers on the streets of Hong Kong for a decade. But this soot-streaked double-decker with missing panels and a rusty engine had been lovingly restored and is owned by two pilots, Luca Tong and Kobee Ko, who have never outgrown their childhood passion for buses.        这种老式巴士因没有空调而被戏称为“热狗巴士”,已经十年没有在香港街头载客了。但是,这辆一度布满烟尘、面板缺失、引擎生锈的双层巴士得到了精心修复,如今,它的车主是飞行员汤煦风和高伟峰,他们从小就对巴士充满热情。
        When the coronavirus pandemic grounded the global aviation industry and cut their flight hours, the pilots — used to steering more sophisticated machinery at 600 miles per hour while cruising in the skies — pooled their savings to refurbish the hot dog bus. To them, it was a physical manifestation of their youth in the 1980s and ’90s, before pandemic restrictions and a sweeping political crackdown gripped the city.        新冠大流行导致全球航空业停滞,他们的飞行时间也随之减少,两位习惯了在空中以时速1000公里驾驶更复杂机器的飞行员拿出了积蓄来翻新这辆“热狗巴士”。对他们来说,这是他们青春时代的实物体现,那是上世纪八九十年代,疫情限制和全面的政治镇压还不曾笼罩这座城市。
        “Back then, there was freedom, money and a whole lot of warmth,” Mr. Tong, 35, said last month. “The bus has the feeling of Hong Kong at that time, but that feeling is disappearing from Hong Kong.”        “那时候,有自由,有钱,还有很多温暖,”35岁的汤煦风上个月说。“这辆巴士有当时香港的感觉,但这种感觉正在从香港消失。”
        The bus was among a fleet of 369 introduced in 1986 and retired in 2012. Made by Britain’s Alexander Dennis for Hong Kong’s Kowloon Motor Bus Company under the moniker Dennis Dragon, the vehicles were originally designed to fit air-conditioning units at the back window. But they were never installed because it would have cost more to ride an air-conditioned bus.        这辆车是1986年引进的369辆巴士之一,于2012年退役。这些车辆由英国的丹尼士公司为香港九龙巴士公司制造,原名丹尼士巨龙,最初的设计是在后窗安装空调,但由于乘坐空调巴士费用会更高,空调始终没有安装。
        And so the hot dog buses trundled along for another quarter of a century. With the introduction of air-conditioned subway trains and 14-seater minibuses in the city, commuters came to prefer more comfortable conditions during Hong Kong’s hot, sticky summers. One by one, hot dog buses, with their windows that slid open to let in the breeze, were replaced by newer models with sealed windows and powerful air-conditioning.        就这样,“热狗巴士”又行驶了四分之一个世纪。随着空调地铁和14座小型巴士引入香港,在香港闷热的夏天,通勤者开始青睐更舒适的环境。虽然“热狗巴士”的窗子可以推开,让微风吹进来,但它们还是一辆接一辆地被有密封窗户和强劲空调的新车型取代。
        Danny Chan, a former transportation journalist who co-founded the Hong Kong Transport Society in 1989, said that for obsessives, the appeal of buses lay in memorizing quotidian details like bus routes and schedules, specifications and models.        于1989年参与创立香港巴士迷会的前交通记者陈自瑜说,对痴迷巴士的人来说,巴士的魅力在于记住日常细节,比如巴士路线和时刻表、规格和型号。
        “Every bus ride becomes a treat,” he said. “You get to anticipate the interesting things you will come across on the bus.”        “每次乘坐巴士都是一种乐趣,”他说。“你会期待在车上将遇到怎样的趣事。”
        Many enthusiasts collect miniatures of bus models or ones tricked out with parts that could be maneuvered via remote control. Others like to photograph buses debuting or retiring. When the remaining hot dog buses owned by the K.M.B. completed their final rotation on May 8, 2012, throngs of cheering fans waved farewell with smartphones and camcorders held aloft.        许多发烧友收集巴士的微缩模型,或者可以遥控行驶的模型。也有人喜欢拍摄巴士的首次亮相或退休。2012年5月8日,仅剩的几辆“热狗巴士”完成最后一轮班次,大批欢呼的车迷举着智能手机和摄像机向它们挥手告别。
        But Mr. Tong and Mr. Ko could not wave their passion goodbye.        但汤煦风和高伟峰无法挥别自己的激情。
        “Not many people will keep memories physically rather than taking videos or photos,” Mr. Ko, 32, said. “Our memory is one that can move.”        “没有多少人会用实物来保留记忆,而不是拍视频或者照片,”32岁的高伟峰说。“我们的记忆是可以开动的。”
        He grew up watching his father drive trucks and minibuses, deftly weaving the large vehicles in and out of thoroughfares. Growing up in a cramped government-subsidized apartment, he drew hundreds of buses from memory and fantasized about living in one. Owning one was a fulfillment of a childhood dream.        他从小就看着父亲开卡车和小巴,熟练地驾驶着大型车辆穿街过巷。在逼仄的公屋里长大的他凭记忆就能画出数百辆巴士,幻想自己能够住在里面。拥有了一辆巴士,他的一个童年梦想实现了。
        In 2016, before the two colleagues met, Mr. Tong purchased an out-of-service bus from a vehicle workshop with another colleague for about $7,700. When Mr. Tong’s friend sold his share of the bus one year later, Mr. Tong asked Mr. Ko and a third pilot friend to become the bus’s joint owners.        2016年,在这两名同事认识之前,汤煦风和另一名同事以约7700美元的价格从一个车辆修理厂购买了一辆已经停用的巴士。一年后,汤煦风的朋友卖掉了他在这辆车中持有的股份,于是汤煦风让高伟峰和另一位飞行员朋友成为该巴士的共同所有者。
        They had intended to hire experienced mechanics to refurbish the bus, but their profession was plunged into uncertainty when the coronavirus spread around the world. Flights dried up amid the city’s strict travel restrictions, and their airline placed them on contracts that almost halved their salaries and allowances, the pilots said. (The bus’s third owner has since emigrated from Hong Kong.)        他们原本打算聘请经验丰富的机械师,对巴士进行翻新,但随着新冠病毒在世界各地的传播,他们的职业变得不确定起来。这两名飞行员表示,由于香港采取严格的旅行限制措施,航班大幅减少,他们与航司签订的合同将他们的工资和各种津贴几乎减半。(这辆巴士的另一位所有人已经移民离开香港。)
        With a surplus of time, the pilots decided to take on the repairs themselves. “We reached a crossroads between doing something and letting it rot,” Mr. Tong said.        由于空闲时间多了起来,两位飞行员决定自己动手修车。汤煦风说,“是行动起来还是任其烂掉,我们到了一个十字路口。”
        They scoured eBay, Facebook and Instagram for antique parts. Mr. Ko tinkered and adapted the old parts to their bus. Mr. Tong watched old news interviews for the correct font and placement of bus stickers and decals, documenting the whole process on Instagram.        他们跑去eBay、Facebook和Instagram上搜寻古董零件。高伟峰把旧零件敲敲打打改合格了,用到巴士上。为了搞清楚巴士贴纸贴花的位置和正确字体,汤煦风找来以前的新闻采访,并把整个过程记录下来发到Instagram上。
        Traveling to the outskirts of Hong Kong, where the bus is usually parked in an open-air lot, they washed, scrubbed, hammered and replaced panels. They unscrewed thousands of old rivets. They even removed several bird’s nests from the roof of the bus.        他们来到位于郊外的一个露天停车场,那辆巴士一般就停放在那里。他们给它洗洗擦擦、敲敲打打,更换仪表盘。还将数以千计的旧铆钉一一拧下来。甚至还从车顶移走了几个鸟窝。
        The maintenance costs, nearly $114,000, came mostly from the pilots’ savings. The repairs were also partly funded by other bus enthusiasts in return for memorabilia that the pilots had refurbished separately to sell.        近90万港币的维修费用主要来自两名飞行员的积蓄。其他巴士爱好者也分担了部分维修提资金,他们将获得两名飞行员在进行单独翻新后用于出售的纪念物。
        After giving the bus a fresh coat of paint, Mr. Tong and Mr. Ko relished driving it into town with the windows open, letting in a cool breeze — and fuel fumes. On a recent trip, the diesel engine rumbled and the exhaust fan whirred and whistled. A prerecorded voice on loudspeakers announced approaching stops in a singsong tone, as the opening doors beeped and the destination signs flipped at the front.        在给巴士涂上了一层新油漆后,汤煦风和高伟峰兴高采烈地把车开进城,车窗开着,让凉爽的风以及油烟味飘进车里。不久前一次兜风时,柴油发动机隆隆作响,排气扇发出呼拉声。广播系统传来预先录制好的、节奏单调的报站声,还有打开车门时发出的哔哔声,和巴士前部目的地标牌的翻转声。
        Other bus drivers gave them thumbs-up at traffic stops.        在公交站点,有其他的巴士司机朝着他们竖起大拇指。
        Once in a while, they would park the bus for a few hours at a terminal by the harbor front, inviting other enthusiasts onboard.        有时候,他们会将巴士开到海港前的码头停上几个小时,邀请其他爱好者上车。
        Ernest Chang, 19, was among a few dozen superfans who took a flurry of photos of the bus at the terminal. During his early childhood, before hot dog buses were taken out of service, he said, he tried to avoid riding them to school, preferring vehicles with air conditioning.        19岁的欧内斯特·张是在码头给这辆巴士不停拍照的数十名超级粉丝之一。他说,在小时候,也就是“热狗巴士”退出服务之前,他会尽量避开乘坐这种车去上学,当时他更喜欢有空调的大巴。
        “If I saw a hot dog bus coming, I would wait for another bus to arrive,” said Mr. Chang. “Now, all I want is to ride on one again.”        “如果看到一辆‘热狗巴士’来了,我就会再等一辆,”欧内斯特·张说。“现在,我很想再坐一次。”
        Wearing a face mask with a pattern of cartoon buses, Elke Fung, a 39-year-old garment merchandiser, said she had taken the day off work to tour the bus with her 4-year-old son, who plays with a miniature version of the bus.        39岁的服装销售员艾尔克·冯戴着印有卡通巴士图案的口罩,她说自己请了一天假,专程和四岁的儿子一起来参观这辆大巴车,他手里拿着一辆微缩巴士模型。
        “I feel really happy,” said Ms. Fung, who used to ride hot dog buses in high school. “All my memories came back.”        “我真的很开心,”冯女士说,她在念高中的时候经常坐“热狗巴士”。“我所有的记忆都回来了。”
        There are challenges to owning a hot dog bus.        拥有一辆“热狗巴士”带来诸多挑战。
        As Hong Kong has eased travel and quarantine restrictions, Mr. Tong and Mr. Ko have begun flying more. And just as thousands of people are migrating from Hong Kong, Mr. Tong says he intends to go abroad for his children’s education. Mr. Ko is not certain he can keep up with the heavy maintenance by himself when Mr. Tong goes.        随着香港放宽旅行和防疫限制措施,汤煦风和高伟峰的飞行时间开始增加了。就在成千上万的人从香港移民的时候,汤煦风表示,为了孩子念书,他打算搬去其他国家。在他走后,高伟峰不确定自己能否独自承担繁重的维护保养工作。
        The pilots have considered moving the hot dog bus to a country like Australia that has more affordable indoor parking spaces for buses and special historical vehicle licenses for carrying passengers. The Sydney Bus Museum already houses two historical Hong Kong buses.        这两名飞行员们已经在考虑,将“热狗巴士”转移到澳大利亚这样的国家,那里有更便宜的室内巴士停车位,而且还可以提供特殊的老爷车牌照用于载客。悉尼巴士博物馆已经收藏了两辆历史悠久的香港巴士。
        For now, the men hope to continue driving the bus for a good while in Hong Kong.        目前,俩人都希望在香港继续驾驶这辆巴士一段时间。
        “I really treasure the history of this place, from its people to the buildings,” Mr. Tong said, adding: “Memories live on, albeit in a different part of the world.”        “我真的很珍惜这个地方的历史,从这里的人到它的建筑,”汤煦风说道。“记忆会一直留存,尽管我会在世界的另一个地方。”
                
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