在闭环“泡泡”里打卡北京冬奥“美食地图”_OK阅读网
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在闭环“泡泡”里打卡北京冬奥“美食地图”
In the Olympic Bubble, a Small Taste of the Food Finds of China

来源:纽约时报    2022-02-17 04:47



        BEIJING — The robot bartender was an ominous sign.        北京——调酒机器人不是一个好兆头。
        It came to life on one of the first days of the Olympic Games, right around happy hour, and unceremoniously started slinging fruity drinks with its long, swaying arm.        它在奥运会开幕后头几天餐厅的优惠时段出现,长长的手臂摇摆着,不太客气地向人们递送果汁饮料。
        There were robots everywhere, in fact: Across the room, they stacked burgers and wrapped them neatly in wax paper; around the corner, they simmered dumplings; others skittered overhead, lowering plates of food from the ceiling.        事实上,到处都有机器人:房间的另一头,它们在做汉堡,用蜡纸把它们整齐地包起来;在角落里,是它们在煮饺子;还有一些机器人在头顶滑行,把一盘盘食物从天花板上降下来。
        Here was evidence, as if more was needed, that this was not a normal Olympics, that the pandemic in yet another way might steal the human heart of a global sports gathering; that one of the joys of the Games in normal times — deep dives into local culture and cuisine — could prove hard to achieve.        这就是证据——好像还需要更多证据似的——证明这不是一届普通的奥运会,证明疫情可能以另一种方式在全球体育盛会上吸引关注,而正常情况下奥运会的乐趣之一——深入了解当地文化和美食——可能很难实现。
        Yes, other topics were more pressing: performance-enhancing drugs, geopolitics, actual sports. But within the tall fences of the so-called bubble, where all participants of the Games were separated round-the-clock from the city outside, food, and where to find the best of it, sat on the tip of everyone’s tongue.        是的,有其他更紧迫的话题:提高成绩的禁药、地缘政治、赛事。但是在这个所谓的“泡泡”里,所有奥运会参与者都被24小时隔离在城市之外,在这个高高的围栏里,食物,以及在哪里可以找到最好的美食,成了每个人挂在嘴边的问题。
        And so it became something of a pleasant surprise, as the Olympics went on, that despite all the limitations, curious athletes, officials, volunteers and journalists were able to find moments of culinary diversion, however small.        因此,随着奥运会的进行,尽管有种种限制,好奇的运动员、官员、志愿者和记者们还是能够找到美食的乐趣,无论多么微小,这成了一种惊喜。
        It may have taken some effort and persistence, but good food finds a way.        这可能需要一些努力和毅力,但好的食物总是能找到的。
        A conversation about Olympic eating, like all things here, could start and end with the inescapable Eileen Gu, the Chinese American freestyle skier who in many ways is the face of these Olympics.        和这里的所有事一样,关于奥运饮食,可以从无处不在的谷爱凌开始,也可以从她结束。她是华裔美国自由式滑雪运动员,在很多方面都堪称本届奥运会的代言人。
        Gu, who was born and raised in the United States but competes for China, announced her arrival at the Beijing Games by posting a photo of dumplings — “Finished them all,” she wrote — which garnered thousands of likes on Weibo, the Chinese social media app.        谷爱凌在美国出生长大,但代表中国参赛。她发布了一张饺子的照片,宣布自己抵达北京奥运会。她写道,“全吃完了”,这张照片在中国社交媒体应用微博上获得了数万次点赞。
        After she won her first medal, she said she would celebrate with Ghirardelli chocolates, an obvious nod to San Francisco, her hometown. And while competing on the slope, she was photographed eating jiucai hezi, a Chinese pocket pie, and a roast pork bun, sending social media into hysterics each time.        在她赢得第一枚奖牌后,她说她要吃吉拉德利巧克力庆祝,这显然是向她的家乡旧金山致意。在坡道上比赛时,她被拍到吃韭菜盒子和生煎包,每次都在社交媒体上引起轰动。
        It was charming, reminiscent perhaps of an American politician chomping a corn dog at a state fair. People ate it up.        这很迷人,让人想起一位美国政界人士在州博览会上大嚼玉米热狗的画面。人们喜欢这种事。
        Similarly, Jenise Spiteri, a snowboarder who competes for Malta, became a favorite of Chinese fans, despite finishing 21st in the women’s snowboard halfpipe competition, after being filmed in the middle of competition munching on a red bean bun she had pulled from a breakfast buffet and stored in her jacket pocket.        同样,代表马耳他参赛的单板滑雪运动员珍妮丝·斯皮泰里尽管在女子单板滑雪U型场地技巧赛中仅获得第21名,但她还是成了中国粉丝们的最爱,因为她在比赛中被拍到大嚼豆包,这是她从自助早餐中拿出来放在上衣口袋里的。
        “Bun-eating snowboarder incarnation of Olympic spirit,” read a headline in the state-run Shanghai Daily newspaper.        “吃豆包的滑雪运动员是奥运精神的化身,”官方报纸《上海日报》的标题写道。
        Food from the athletes’ villages and venue dining halls tend not to inspire gushing reviews, no matter when or where the Games are happening. In Beijing, the robot-made dishes were precisely cooked — broccoli always crisp, wonton skins always bouncy — but mostly uninspiring. (Some critics have been harsher: South Korean athletes were electing to eat boxed meals provided by their organizing committee, according to a report by Yonhap News.)        无论奥运会在何时何地举行,运动员村和场馆餐厅提供的食物往往不会引起赞誉。在北京,机器人做的菜做得非常精确——西蓝花总是很脆,馄饨皮总是很Q弹——但大多数都没有什么新意。(一些批评更为严厉,据韩联社的一篇报道:韩国运动员选择吃本国奥委会提供的盒饭。)
        In Olympics past, one could simply venture into the surrounding city for a palate cleanser. Even at the Tokyo Games last summer, visitors in somewhat looser pandemic protocols enjoyed the semireligious privilege of entering the city’s ubiquitous, and surprisingly tasty, convenience stores.        在以前的奥运会,人们只需冒险到城里去寻找调剂。即使是在去年夏天的东京奥运会上,在相对宽松的防疫规定下,来访者也得以享受近乎宗教的特权,进入东京无处不在、令人惊讶的美食便利店。
        So it was dispiriting to be behind these fences in Beijing, one of the world’s great eating cities. The game plan for intrepid diners became very clear. Sampling China’s famous cuisines, in something resembling their natural state, could happen only in the several hotels within the Olympic walls.        所以,在北京这个世界上美食最多的城市之一,站在这些围栏之后令人沮丧。勇敢的食客们的计划变得非常明确。只有在奥运场馆内的几家酒店里,才能品尝到自然状态下的中国著名美食。
        This became a hot topic of the Games. People shared notes and gossip. They whispered rumors of regional dishes made by skilled cooks, of classic cocktails mixed by humans. A Google doc inviting crowdsourced reviews, including photographs and menus, made its way into journalists’ inboxes.        这成为了奥运会的热门话题。人们互传信息和八卦。他们交头接耳地谈论由手艺精湛的厨师烹制的地方菜肴,以及调酒师制作的经典鸡尾酒。一份邀请众人评论的谷歌文档——包括照片和菜单——飞入了记者的收件箱。
        One satisfying meal materialized from a tip texted to a colleague: There was potentially delicious food from the northwestern provinces of China to be had at a place called the Tarim Petroleum Hotel.        同事发来的小建议使饱足的一餐成为现实:如果去一个叫塔里木石油酒店的地方,有可能吃到来自中国西北省份的美味佳肴。
        A group quickly assembled and ventured over on an Olympic bus, finding a tattered dining room with signs reminding visitors about a recent government initiative aimed at reducing food waste: “We are serious about the Clean Plate Campaign,” one read.        一群人迅速集合并乘坐一辆奥运巴士外出,发现一间破破烂烂的餐厅,上面的标志提醒游客最近一项旨在减少食物浪费的政府举措,其中一个写道:“光盘行动,我们是认真的。”
        That was not going to be an issue. We crowded around a small table and cleaned a parade of plates: lamb ribs caked in cumin and pinned to a stainless steel tower like ornaments on a Christmas tree; translucent bits of fish head plucked from a mound of chopped peppers; garlicky, glistening eggplant, carved down to addictive little nubs.        这不成问题。我们围在一张小桌子旁,吃光了好多盘菜:铁塔般的不锈钢架上固定着蘸满孜然的羊排,像圣诞树上的装饰品一样;从大量剁椒里夹出半透明的鱼头;切成小块的油亮蒜味茄子令人欲罢不能。
        Gustatory pleasure could be attained, it turned out, with an open mind, an enterprising spirit and tempered expectations.        事实证明,只要以开放的心态、进取的精神和适度的期望,就能获得味觉的愉悦。
        On Valentine’s Day, for instance, the British speedskater Ellia Smeding joked about making romantic dinner plans with her boyfriend, Cornelius Kersten, who also skates for the national team.        例如,在情人节那天,在提到要和同为国家队速滑选手的男朋友科尼柳斯·克斯滕制定浪漫晚餐计划时,英国速滑运动员埃利娅·斯梅丁开了个玩笑。
        “We might go on a KFC date or something,” she said, referring to one of the few fast-food joints in the bubble.        “我们可能会去肯德基约会之类的,”她说,指的是泡泡中为数不多的快餐店之一。
        And in the mountains of Zhangjiakou, where some snowboard events take place, word spread of a Chinese restaurant tucked away on the fifth floor of a resort. Soon, enough hungry Olympians like Shaun White were eating there that a wall of fame formed near the door, with notes from happy customers.        某些滑雪项目在张家口的山区举办,在那里,人们口口相传一家隐藏在度假村五楼的中餐馆。很快,许多像肖恩·怀特这样饥饿的奥运选手去那里吃饭,多到门口出现了一堵名人墙,上面写着满意食客的留言。
        “So good Chinese food,” read one from the snowboarder Ayumu Hirano of Japan, who won a gold medal at these Games. “Thank you so much!!” (The note disappeared at one point, then reappeared the next day, laminated.)        “中国菜真好吃,”在本届奥运会夺金的日本单板滑雪运动员平野步梦写道。“太感谢了!!”(纸条一度消失,第二天又出现了,加了一层塑封。)
        Most of my days were a blur of hit-or-miss cafeteria food, snacks stuffed into bags for long bus rides. One haven emerged in the form of a nondescript convention center hotel around the corner from the main press center. By the second week, it was hard to get a table.        我大部分时间都是在匆忙中随便从咖啡厅买点食物,往袋子里装零食以备长途巴士路程之需。在主媒体中心的拐角处,一个不起眼的会议中心酒店出现了一个世外桃源。到了第二周的时候已是一桌难求。
        My first time there, the sight of little plumes of steam emerging from hot pots sitting on several tables gave me a jolt of adrenaline — and that was before the head rush of the Sichuan broth. I asked the waitress if I had ordered too much. Yes, she said with a laugh, and walked away.        我第一次去那里,看到几张桌子上的火锅冒出的缕缕蒸汽让我肾上腺素飙升——这还是在被川味锅底的香气冲击之前。我问服务员我点的是不是太多了。她笑着说是的,然后走开了。
        We made another quick visit, before fanning out to various late-night competitions, for a colleague’s impromptu birthday celebration. We ordered a whole roast duck, one of the quintessential foods of Beijing, which a cook wearing a mask carved by our table with an enormous blade.        在各自奔赴报道夜间比赛之前,我们又去那里小聚,即兴为一位同事庆生。我们点了一整只烤鸭,这是北京的经典美食之一,戴着口罩的厨师用拿着一把巨大的片刀在我们的桌旁片鸭子。
        I reached for a pancake, but a Chinese colleague suggested I first find the purest sliver of fat I could, then dip it into the plate of white sugar in front of me.        我伸手去拿一张卷饼,但一位中国同事建议我先挑一块最肥的脂肪,然后将它在我面前的白糖盘子里蘸一蘸。
        It melted sweetly inside my cheek. The robots, thank God, slunk further into the recesses of my mind.        它如蜜糖般在我的嘴里融化了。谢天谢地,那些机器人被埋进了我记忆中的遥远角落。
                
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