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| SEOUL — Jeong Mi-hee, a South Korean businesswoman, used to buy a lot of whisky in airports. When the coronavirus pandemic brought her travels to halt, she started paying more attention to local booze she had overlooked. | 首尔——韩国商人郑美姬（音）曾在机场买过许多威士忌。新冠病毒大流行让她无法旅行后，她开始更多关注她曾经忽视的本地酒。 |
| The best drink she found was makgeolli, a cloudy Korean rice wine with a slightly sour taste. Ms. Jeong liked it so much that, after studying ancient fermentation techniques with a master brewer, she decided to start her own label. | 她找到的最佳酒品是马格利。这是一种浑浊的韩国米酒，味道有点酸。郑美姬非常喜欢这种酒，跟随一位酿酒大师学习了古老的发酵技术后，她决定创立自己的品牌。 |
| “My makgeolli life started with corona!” Ms. Jeong, 41, said recently at a Seoul liquor store dedicated to traditional Korean alcohol. | “我的马格利生活是从新冠开始的！”41岁的郑美姬最近在首尔一家专门销售韩国传统酒品的商店里说。 |
| Ms. Jeong is among a growing number of South Koreans who have started brewing makgeolli for the first time, and one of many people around the world who developed an interest in homebrewing during the pandemic. | 和郑美姬一样，越来越多的韩国人开始自行酿造马格利，而且在大流行期间，世界各地也有很多人开始对自酿酒产生兴趣。 |
| South Korea’s craft makgeolli revival has been underway for at least a decade, but the drink’s popularity took on new dimensions during Covid lockdowns as people ordered small-batch labels online and swapped brewing recipes on social media. | 韩国自酿马格利的复兴至少已经有十年，但在新冠疫情封锁期间，人们在网上订购小批量产的品牌，并在社交媒体上交换酿造配方，使得这种饮品的流行达到了新高度。 |
| “Making makgeolli helped me pass the time when I couldn’t leave the house much because of Covid,” said Lee Young-min, 35, a makgeolli aficionado in Seoul who posts about traditional foods and liquors on Instagram. “Learning the ingredients of traditional foods and makgeolli is part of understanding the world that our ancestors inhabited.” | “因新冠疫情不能出门的时候，制作马格利可以打发时间。”首尔的马格利爱好者、35岁的李英敏（音）说，她在Instagram上发布有关传统食品和酒的照片。“了解传统食物和马格利的原料可以帮我们了解我们的祖先所生活的世界。” |
| A Lost Art | 失落的艺术 |
| Makgeolli, also known as makkolli, is made from fermented rice and nuruk, a doughlike starter. The brewing process can be as complex as that of Belgian-style beers or natural sake, said Alice Jun, a makgeolli producer in New York City who has studied the craft in Seoul. | 马格利用发酵的大米和面团状的麹（发酵剂）制成。曾在首尔学习这种工艺的纽约马格利生产商爱丽丝·全（音）说，马格利酒的酿造过程可以像比利时风味啤酒或天然清酒一样复杂。 |
| Koreans have been brewing makgeolli at home for centuries. The drink was banned during a brutal, 35-year Japanese occupation of the Korean Peninsula that ended in 1945. Some makgeolli production resumed after fighting in the Korean War ended in 1953, but it was suppressed again as the government in Seoul grappled with postwar grain shortages. | 几个世纪以来，韩国人一直在自己家里酿造马格利。在日本对朝鲜半岛长达35年的野蛮占领期间（于1945年结束），这种酒遭到禁止。1953年朝鲜战争结束后，马格利恢复了部分生产，但随着首尔的政府努力解决战后粮食短缺问题，它的生产再次受到抑制。 |
| In the 1950s, officials urged producers to use potatoes, not rice, to make soju, another type of traditional Korean liquor, according to a recent book on soju by Hyunhee Park, a history professor at the City University of New York. In 1965, they banned grain-based alcohol entirely, further suppressing traditional distillation methods. | 纽约市立大学历史学教授朴贤熙最近出版的一本关于烧酒的书中写道，1950年代，官员们敦促生产商使用土豆而不是大米来酿造另一种韩国传统酒烧酒。1965年，他们彻底禁止了以谷物为基础的烈酒，进而禁止了传统的蒸馏方法。 |
| Mass-produced makgeolli began appearing in South Korean grocery stores after the government fully lifted its restrictions on makgeolli brewing in the 1990s. But by then, many people in the country had forgotten how traditional rice wine was supposed to taste. | 1990年代，政府全面取消了对马格利的限制后，大批量生产的马格利开始出现在韩国的食品杂货店。但到那时，这个国家的许多人已经忘记了传统马格利酒的味道。 |
| “For the people that grew up in postwar Korea, their understanding of makgeolli and soju is very different from what the general population of Koreans understood in prewar,” said Ms. Jun, 28, who studied with a master brewer in Seoul before opening her Brooklyn-based label, Hana Makgeolli, during the pandemic. | “战后长大的韩国人对马格利酒与烧酒的认识和战前的普通韩国人很不一样，”28岁的爱丽丝·全说，她在首尔向一位酿酒大师学习，然后在疫情期间开办了她位于布鲁克林的品牌哈娜马格利。 |
| “It’s not that we’re taking a new approach to things,” she said of her brand and the makgeolli start-ups that are proliferating in South Korea. “It’s that we’re appreciating the traditional things, and calling attention to them in the world of the internet and social media and brands.” | “这并不是说我们在使用一种新的方式来做事情，”她在谈到自己的品牌以及在韩国激增的马格利初创企业时说。“这是我们在欣赏传统的东西，在互联网、社交媒体和品牌的世界里唤起人们对它们的关注。” |
| A New Market | 新市场 |
| South Korea had 961 registered makgeolli businesses in 2020, up from 931 the year before and 898 in 2018. People in the industry say that overall production has been growing steadily, partly because the government allowed online sales of Korean traditional alcohol beginning in 2017. | 2020年，韩国有961家注册的马格利企业，比前一年的931家和2018年的898家有所增加。业内人士表示，总体产量一直在稳步增长，部分原因是政府从2017年开始允许韩国传统烈酒在网上销售。 |
| Some Korean e-commerce sites have reported spikes in makgeolli sales during the pandemic. Brands that sell traditional liquor in South Korea have a competitive advantage because the government limits online sales of any other type of alcohol. | 一些韩国电商网站报告说，在新冠疫情期间，马格利的销量大幅增加。在韩国销售传统烈酒的品牌具有竞争优势，因为政府限制其他类型的烈酒在网上销售。 |
| Until about a decade ago, South Korea’s makgeolli industry was dominated by large companies, said Huh Shi-myung, a brewer who runs the Makgeolli School and the Korea Sool Culture Laboratory, another educational project in Seoul. He said the small start-ups emerging today have raised the bar for quality. | 经营马格利学校和韩国苏尔文化实验室——首尔的另一个教育项目——的酿酒师许世明（音）说，直到大约十年前，韩国的马格利产业还由大公司主导。他说，如今出现的小型初创企业提高了质量标准。 |
| “It’s all about individual sensitivity and choices by the next generation of brewers,” he said. | “这主要是和个人的感觉以及新一代酿酒者的选择有关，”他说。 |
| Industry experts say that the new demand for makgeolli is largely driven by young Korean professionals who see the drink — once known mainly as a tipple for Korean farmers — as a marker of cosmopolitan refinement. Mr. Huh described its appeal as “newtro,” popular slang in South Korea that combines the words “new” and “retro.” | 业内专家表示，对马格利的新需求在很大程度上是由年轻的韩国职场人士推动的，过去主要是韩国农民爱喝这种酒，如今它被这些专业人士当做国际化大都市的优雅标志。许世明说它的魅力是“newtro”，这是韩国流行的俚语，将“新”(new)和“复古”(retro)两个词结合起来。 |
| Han A-young, 33, a former bank administrator who opened the Hanayangjo makgeolli brewery in Seoul last year, said that her brand sells for about $10 to $14 per bottle — more than double the price of mainstream makgeolli in South Korean grocery stores. Her customers don’t seem to mind, she said. “They would pay for taste regardless of cost.” | 今年33岁的韩阿英（音）曾是银行管理人员，去年在首尔创办了Hanayangjo马格利酒厂。她说，她的品牌每瓶售价在10到14美元之间（约合63到88元人民币），比韩国杂货店里主流马格利酒的价格高出一倍多。她说，她的顾客似乎并不介意。“他们会不计成本地为口味买单。” |
| Back to Basics | 回归根本 |
| South Korea’s makgeolli boom isn’t just happening in Seoul, the capital. Geumjeong Sanseong Makgeolli, one of the country’s best-known makgeolli breweries, lies near an 18th-century fortress in the southern city of Busan. | 韩国的马格利酒热潮并不仅仅发生在首都首尔。金井山城马格利酒厂是韩国最著名的马格利酿造厂之一，位于南部城市釜山的一座18世纪的山城附近。 |
| For centuries, villagers in that area have made nuruk, or starter, through a traditional process in which they use their feet to knead it into discs that resemble pizza dough. After the government’s 1965 ban on grain-based alcohol, they hid their nuruk in caves. | 几个世纪以来，该地区的村民一直用一种传统方法制麹，他们用脚把麹揉成类似披萨面团的圆盘。1965年政府禁止以谷物为原料的酒精后，他们把麹藏在洞穴里。 |
| Yoo Chung-kil, a master brewer, took over Geumjeong Sanseong Makgeolli in the 1990s. His son, Yoo Hye-su, is now using the old production techniques to develop a new style of makgeolli with a lower alcohol content and a sweeter taste — an effort to appeal to women in their 20s and 30s. | 1990年代，酿酒大师柳正吉（音）收购了金井山城格利酒厂。他的儿子柳惠洙（音）现在正在使用古老的生产技术开发一种酒精含量更低、味道更甜的新马格利，以吸引二三十岁的女性。 |
| “There aren’t many people in my generation who think about preserving our heritage and culture, so I feel a sense of urgency to do so,” the younger Mr. Yoo said. | “在我们这一代，没有多少人会去思考如何保护我们的遗产和文化，所以我觉得有一种紧迫感，”柳惠洙说。 |
| Separately, Mr. Huh, the brewer in Seoul, said he had taught more than 700 students a year how to make makgeolli in both 2020 and 2021, nearly double his prepandemic enrollment figure. Several students started their own labels right after finishing the course, he said. | 另外，首尔的酿酒师许世明说，在2020年和2021年，他每年都教700多名学生如何制作马格利，几乎是疫情前注册人数的两倍。他说，一些学生在完成课程后就开始创建自己的品牌。 |
| One was Ms. Jeong, who also is a florist. She said that her brand, Mi Hee Makgeolli, quickly sold out of its first 1,000 bottles after she debuted it in late 2020. Customers who posted pictures of the label on social media essentially did her marketing for her. | 同时还是花艺师的郑美姬就是其中之一。她说，她的品牌“美姬马格利”在2020年末推出后，第一批1000瓶很快售罄。在社交媒体上发布该品牌照片的客户等于在为她做营销。 |
| “Because of Covid-19, they could not drink in restaurants, but they still wanted to somehow signal ‘I am different,’” she said. “When a new bottle comes out, they want to be the first one to post.” | “由于新冠疫情，他们不能在餐厅喝酒，但他们仍然想以某种方式发出‘我与众不同’的信号，”她说。“当新酒上市的时候，他们希望成为第一个发到网上的人。” |
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