“银发复兴”:成为网络时尚红人的韩国奶奶们_OK阅读网
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“银发复兴”:成为网络时尚红人的韩国奶奶们
In Korea, You Don’t Have to Explain TikTok to Your Grandma

来源:纽约时报    2021-06-09 04:30



        SEOUL — In 2017 Kim Yura shot a video during a vacation she took to the Australian city of Cairns and later posted it on a YouTube channel.        首尔——2017年,金宇拉(Kim Yura,音)在澳大利亚凯恩斯市度假时拍摄了一段视频,随后发布到了一个YouTube频道上。
        Like many seemingly random (and not so random) online videos, it became a mild sensation — there are 1.3 million views — and has made something of a celebrity of its co-star, Park Mak-rye, 74, who is Ms. Kim’s grandmother. Their channel, Korean Grandma, currently has 1.31 million subscribers.        就像许多看似随意(其实也没那么随意)的网络视频一样,这段视频也引起了一场不大不小的轰动——得到了130万的点击量——并让与她合作的74岁的朴麦莉(Park Mak-rye,音)成了名人。朴麦莉是金宇拉的祖母。她们的“韩国奶奶”频道目前有131万订阅用户。
        And although Ms. Park may be one of the better-known examples, she is not alone as an older person claiming a share of the spotlight in South Korea, where a “greynaissance” is helping reshape the culture. Koreans aged 50 and older are becoming key consumers and makers in the country’s economy, including the fashion and beauty industries.        朴麦莉可能是较为知名的例子之一,但她并不是韩国唯一成为热点人物的老年人。在韩国,“银发复兴”正在帮助重塑文化。50岁及以上的韩国人正在成为韩国经济的重要消费者和制造者,包括时尚和美容行业。
        Partly, it’s a result of the fact that South Korea has a rapidly aging population and partly, it’s the success of some YouTube and TikTok creators, who are an important factor in shifting beauty ideals, and who are becoming popular in Korea and abroad at the same time.        这种情况的部分原因是韩国人口迅速老龄化,一定程度上源自YouTube和TikTok的一些创作者的成功,他们在韩国和海外同时流行起来,是改变审美理念的重要因素。
        Hyeyoung Hwang, the digital editor at Vogue Korea, credits social media as the driving force of the movement. And that while “lack of senior representation in the media” has been a problem in many countries, for decades, she said, the “visibility of Korean seniors working in these industries has a particularly positive influence as pressures to follow age norms are so strictly defined.”        《时尚》(Vogue)韩国版的数字编辑黄海英(Hyeyoung Hwang,音)认为,社交媒体是这场运动的推动力。她说,尽管几十年来“媒体中缺乏老年人的代表”在许多国家都是问题,但是,她说,“在存在严格遵循年龄规范的压力的情况下,韩国老年人在这些行业工作所受的关注具有特别积极的影响。”
        Miyoung Jeon, an analyst at Consumer Trend Research Institute at Seoul National University, said that “Koreans like to see young faces, even if they’re being served at McDonalds, so the fact that even a few seniors have been able to find work as models or YouTubers is remarkable.”        首尔国立大学(Seoul National University)消费者趋势研究所(Consumer Trend Research Institute)的分析师全美英(Miyoung Jeon,音)说,“韩国人喜欢看到年轻的面孔,即使是麦当劳的服务员,所以即便是老年人也能找到模特或YouTube网红的工作,这一点很了不起。”
        Ms. Park, whose many subscribers tune in for her cosmetics reviews and kitchen secrets, is just one example. “Beauty, to me, is not about being wrinkle-free,” she wrote in email. “What’s made me youthful over the years is my ability to overcome my fears about aging and pushing myself to do new things.”        朴麦莉只是其中一个例子,她的许多订户都是为了她的化妆品测评和厨房秘诀而来。“对我来说,美丽不是没有皱纹,”她在电子邮件中写道。“这些年来,我能够克服对变老的恐惧,并且迫使自己去做新的事情,是这些令我变得年轻。”
        Ms. Kim started the channel because her grandmother began showing signs of dementia, and Ms. Kim wanted to document the fun they had together. She said she had the idea for her grandmother to focus on beauty because makeup tutorials were trending at the time, though the channel has other kinds of videos as well.        金宇拉开办这个频道是因为祖母开始出现失智的迹象,她想记录两人一起度过的快乐时光。她说,她之所以让祖母专注于美容,是因为当时化妆教程很流行,尽管她们的频道也有其他类型的视频。
        “I understood that most viewers weren’t going to follow my grandma’s tips since she used non-famous brands,” Ms. Kim said. “But I thought it was a way to tell a story about her.”        “我知道大多数观众不会听我奶奶的建议,因为她用的是非知名品牌,”金宇拉说。“但我认为这是一种方法,可以用来讲述她的故事。”
        Ashley Kim, 30, a Korean-American who lives in Melbourne, Australia, discovered Chang Myung-sook — a.k.a. Milanonna — another YouTube creator, when searching for self-care content online at the beginning of Australia’s lockdown in March 2020. “I was like, oh, it’s a granny?” Ms. Kim said of Ms. Chang, 68. “It’s a Korean granny!” Milanonna’s videos, including one called “Korean Old Lady’s Self Care Night Routine,” include skin care regimens that are similar to those of other YouTubers and to life hacks that come with age.        30岁的阿什莉·金(Ashley Kim)是住在澳大利亚墨尔本的韩裔美国人,2020年3月澳大利亚开始封锁时,她在网上搜索自我护理内容,发现了另一位YouTube创作者张明淑(Chang Myung-sook,音)——又名米兰诺娜(Milanonna)。“我当时想,哦,这是一位老奶奶?”阿什莉·金谈到68岁的张明淑时说。“这是一位韩国老奶奶!”米兰诺娜的视频中包括“韩国老太太的夜间自我护理程序”,内容是和其他YouTube用户类似的护肤方法,以及随年龄增长而来的生活技巧。
        “In Korea, there’s this idea that once you hit a certain age, you’re no longer a woman, so it’s appealing to see these grandmas not give in to that narrative,” said Esther Oh, 32, who lives in Virginia and watches videos of self-described “Korean grandmothers.”        “在韩国,人们认为,一旦到了一定年龄,你就不再是女人了,所以看到这些老奶奶们不屈服于这种说法,很有吸引力,”32岁的埃丝特·吴(Esther Oh)说。她住在弗吉尼亚州,会观看那些自称“韩国老奶奶”的人的视频。
        Jiyeon Kim, 30, who lives in Sweden, subscribes to Ms. Park’s channel but does not necessarily see it as a source of practical beauty tips. “I like seeing how passionate she is, but I wouldn’t wear my makeup like hers because it’s way too bold,” she said.        30岁的金智妍(Jiyeon Kim,音)住在瑞典,她订阅了朴麦莉的频道,但不一定从中寻找实用的美容秘诀。“我喜欢看到她的热情,但我不会化她那样的妆,因为太大胆了,”她说。
        More recently, some older Koreans are joining TikTok. One account, @thenewgrey_, highlights the Ahjusshis, a crew of fashionable men in their 50s and 60s. Jee Sung-eun, 55, a founding member of the Ahjusshis, said he hopes the crew’s success serves as a reminder that you are never too old to try anew. “They used to say, ‘Life is a marathon,’ but I think it’s more like a triathlon,” Mr. Jee said.        最近,一些年长的韩国人加入了TikTok。一个名为@thenewgrey_的帐号重点介绍了“大叔帮”(Ahjusshis),这是一群五六十岁的时尚男士。55岁的郑成恩(Jee Sung-eun,音)是“大叔帮”的创始成员之一。他说,他希望成员们的成功能提醒人们,尝试新东西永远不会太老。“他们以前经常说,‘生活是一场马拉松’,但我觉得它更像是一场铁人三项,”郑成恩说。
        Although a handful of older social media stars have garnered millions of views online, finding an audience in the commercial fashion industry has been tougher. The Show Project, a modeling school and agency in Seoul, was founded in 2015 on the idea that it would connect older people with second careers. The agency now represents Kim Chil-doo, 66, and Choi Soon-hwa, 77, two of the best-known older models in the industry, and train over a hundred aspiring models.        尽管少数年长的社交媒体明星在网上获得了数百万的浏览量,但要在商业时尚行业找到受众却比较困难。“走秀项目”(The Show Project)是首尔的一家模特学校和经纪公司,成立于2015年,当时的想法是帮助老年人找到第二职业。该公司现在代理66岁的金七斗(Kim Chil-doo,音)和77岁的崔顺花(Choi Soon-hwa,音)等业内最知名的老年模特,并为100多名有意成为模特的人士提供了培训。
        Im Sung-min, a manager at the Show Project, said the industry has made some changes since 2016 when he first took Mr. Kim to an audition. “The casting director asked why I brought him a grandpa. He said, ‘I thought I told you to bring me some real models,’” Mr. Im recalled. Two years later, the agency got its first real break when the fashion label Kimmy. J hired Mr. Kim and Ms. Choi for a runway show at Seoul Fashion Week.        “走秀项目”的经理林成民(Im Sung-min,音)说,自2016年他第一次带金七斗去试镜以来,这个行业已经发生了一些变化。“当时选角导演问我为什么给他带去一个爷爷,他说,‘我记得我告诉过你,给我带几个真正的模特来,’”林成民回忆。两年后,时尚品牌Kimmy. J聘请金七斗和崔顺花参加首尔时装周的时装秀,这家经纪公司迎来了第一次真正的突破。
        Still companies rarely use older adults as models, even though labels like Millet, MLB and Spao have. “A lot of seniors come to us looking for the kind of success that Mr. Kim has achieved, but the truth is that everything, from maintaining your body to landing gigs, is really hard,” Mr. Im said.        尽管Millet、MLB和Spao等品牌都用老年人做模特,但公司仍然很少使用老年人。“很多老年人来我们这里,希望获得金先生那样的成功,但事实是,从保持体型到获得演出机会,一切都非常困难,”林成民说。
        Choe Yun, the director of model development at the Show Project said that of the some 50 brands at Seoul Fashion Week, “only one or two of them will maybe use a senior model.”        “走秀项目”的模特开发总监崔云(Choe Yun,音)说,首尔时装周上的大约50个品牌中,“只有一两个可能会使用老年模特。”
        But that doesn’t stop Ms. Park and other older people from exploring roles traditionally dominated by more the more youthful. “Nothing makes me happier than the idea that I could have inspired a new dream for people like me,” she said.        但这并不妨碍朴麦莉和其他老年人探索传统上由更年轻的人主导的角色。“没有什么比想到我可以为像我这样的人激发新梦想更让我高兴的了,”她说。
                
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