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| MALIBU, Calif. — Look, but don’t make it obvious. Is that Bella Hadid? Or, is that a person who’s worked extremely hard to make herself look like Bella Hadid? | 加利福尼亚州马里布——快看，但别太刻意。那是贝拉·哈迪德(Bella Hadid)吗？还是一个使出浑身解数让自己看起来像贝拉·哈迪德的人？ |
| The dining room at Nobu Malibu spills outside, floating dreamily above the Pacific Ocean. It’s full of people of indeterminable ages with plumped, glowy skin and long, extra-thick eyelashes, wearing soft, unwrinkled fabrics and layers of gold chains. | Nobu Malibu的餐厅延伸至海边，犹如浮在太平洋海面一般梦幻。这里坐满了难以辨别年纪的人，他们皮肤细嫩有光泽，睫毛长而特别浓密，穿着面料柔软、没有褶皱的衣服，戴着层叠的金链。 |
| Some are regulars, power lunching; others celebrate special occasions (including the win of the reservation itself, still borderline impossible). But everyone’s playing some version of this game: Look! Is that …? | 这些人有的是常客，与权贵共进工作午餐；其他人则是来庆祝特殊的日子（包括订到了位子这件事本身，因为这仍然几乎是不可能的）。但每个人都在玩类似的游戏：看！那不是谁谁吗？ |
| In this light, with this many paparazzi on the sidewalk, the answer isn’t immediately obvious. Nobu Malibu is one of those places where the veil between worlds is so thin, the famous and the famous-adjacent blur together. Time itself goes syrupy. | 有鉴于此，加上人行道上的众多狗仔队，答案并不明显。在Nobu Malibu，区分不同世界的帷幔如此透明，以至于分不清名人和准名人。连时间都变得像糖浆一样缠绵。 |
| Was anyone surprised to see pixelated photos of Jennifer Lopez and Ben Affleck here just a few weeks ago? No, because Nobu is 2002 and Bennifer and frosted tips. Nobu is Vanessa Carlton, making her way downtown, and Season 5 of “Sex and the City” shaken together and poured into a tall-stemmed glass. | 有人会因为几周前看到詹妮弗·洛佩兹(Jennifer Lopez)和本·阿弗莱克(Ben Affleck)光临这里的模糊照片而感到惊讶吗？不，因为Nobu永远停留在2002，停留在那个流行刺头发型的年代，停留在“Bennifer”时刻。Nobu就是“正要去市中心的”凡妮莎·卡尔顿(Vanessa Carlton)，一杯将《欲望都市》(Sex and the City)第五季混在一起倒入高脚杯的鸡尾酒。 |
| A visit now should seem predictable and dated and maybe even mildly embarrassing, like coming across an old photo of yourself in a dress over bedazzled jeans. But somehow — and this is a part of Nobu Malibu’s magic — it doesn’t. | 现在再去那里，似乎老套又过时，甚至可能有点尴尬，就像看到了一张自己穿着连衣裙配亮片牛仔裤的旧照片。然而并非如此——这就是Nobu Malibu的一部分魔法。 |
| Maybe it’s because the restaurant, which opened in its current beachfront location in 2012, isn’t entirely stuck in the past. There are often new dishes on the menu, from a kitchen led by Gregorio Stephenson, and a sushi counter led by Toshiyuki Shiramizu. Some of them stay on, like the bright, fluttering, raw artichoke salad dressed with yuzu juice, only to be replicated at other Nobu locations. | 也许是因为这家2012年在现在的沙滩位置上开业的餐厅并没有完全停留在过去。菜单上常常有新菜式，来自主厨格雷戈里奥·斯蒂芬森(Gregorio Stephenson)以及负责寿司吧台的白水利幸(Toshiyuki Shiramizu)。有些菜式一直保留着，例如用日本柚子汁调味的生洋蓟沙拉，明亮灵动，被其他Nobu餐厅拿来复制。 |
| Some of the best dishes are the simplest — pristine pieces of fish dressed in brilliant citrus juices, seasoned with a concentration of dehydrated miso or a minuscule dab of chile paste or a single, tender leaf of cilantro. The rolls of crab and avocado in yuba are barely embellished at all, but wonderfully sweet and luxurious. The head-on grilled prawns are a juicy, delicious mess. | 一些最好的菜肴也是最简单的——未加工的生鱼片配上鲜亮的柑橘汁，用浓缩的脱水味噌或一丁点辣酱或一片香菜嫩叶调味。用腐竹卷起的蟹肉和牛油果几乎不加任何装饰，但甘甜美味且奢华。烤整只大虾多汁可口，软烂美味。 |
| You might be tempted by the miso cod that Nobu Matsuhisa made famous — a dish from Kyoto known as saikyo yaki. Mr. Matsuhisa cured the fish directly in miso and sweetened it for American tastes using mirin and sugar. It remains on the menu of every location, forever and always. There’s even a version of smaller pieces of slippery, white-fleshed cod, in the same glaze, in lettuce cups, because the restaurant is completely aware that first-time diners feel pressure to try it, but might not necessarily want a whole slab of an entree. | 你可能会被松久信幸(Nobu Matsuhisa)的成名菜品味噌黑鳕鱼所吸引——一种来自京都的菜肴，被称为“西京烧”(Saikyoyaki)。松久信幸将鱼肉直接腌在味噌里，并使用味醂和糖增加甜味，以适应美国人的口味。每个Nobu餐厅的菜单上都永远保留这道菜。甚至还有一个版本，使用小块滑溜的白肉鳕鱼，使用同样的酱料，放在生菜杯里，因为餐厅很清楚地意识到初次来就餐的人会感到不得不尝试这道菜的压力，但不一定想要点一整盘主菜。 |
| But I wouldn’t bother ordering either. Other old dishes, like the teeny, melt-away uni tacos, perfectly constructed in fried won ton skins, and the buttery monkfish liver pâté with caviar and green, unripe yamamomo, or Japanese mountain peach, have aged so much better. | 不过我也不会点这道菜。其他经典菜式——比如用炸馄饨皮完美制作的小巧、入口即化的海胆夹饼，以及配鱼子酱和未成熟的绿色杨梅的安康鱼肝酱，或日本山桃——随着时间变得越来越美味。 |
| Still, understanding the development of Nobu’s version of miso cod is key to the sway of the chain. | 尽管如此，了解Nobu的味噌黑鳕鱼的发展是了解该连锁餐厅影响力的关键。 |
| Mr. Matsuhisa was born in Saitama, Japan, the youngest of 4 children. When he was 8, his father died in a motorcycle crash. When he was a teenager, he was expelled from high school and started working in a small, family-run sushi restaurant in Tokyo, accompanying the head chef to the market every morning, carrying his boss’s basket of cold fish. | 松久信幸出生于日本埼玉县，是家中四个孩子里最小的一个。在他八岁时，他的父亲在一次摩托车事故中丧生。十几岁的时候，他被高中开除，开始在东京一家家庭经营的小型寿司店工作，每天早上陪主厨去市场，背着老板的鱼篮子。 |
| What he learned in Tokyo was traditional, but a few years later when a regular offered him a partnership at a restaurant in Lima, Peru, he embraced local South American fish, different from what he was used to, and a whole cast of ingredients he’d never dreamed of applying to sushi before, from lemon juice and cilantro to olive oil and tomatoes. | 他在东京学到的东西是传统的，但几年后，当一位常客请他合伙去秘鲁利马开一家餐厅时，他欣然接受了使用与他所熟悉食材完全不同的南美当地鱼类，以及从柠檬汁和香菜到橄榄油和番茄等一系列他从未想过用在寿司上的的食材。 |
| In the United States, he tried soft-shell crab for the first time, and put it in a sushi roll. When a diner turned up her nose at pieces of raw fish, he cooked the surface with a splash of hot oil to make it more palatable to her. He cut squid into noodles for a child who wanted pasta. Mr. Matsuhisa’s mythology as a chef and businessman has been built around these ideas of experimentation and hybridization — his capacity for adapting the Japanese flavors he knew to please diners all over the world, like with the miso cod. | 在美国，他第一次尝试软壳蟹，并把它卷在了寿司里。当一名食客对生鱼片嗤之以鼻时，他用一勺热油将其烫熟，帮她把鱼做得更合她的胃口。他为一个想吃意大利面的孩子把鱿鱼切成面条状。松久信幸的商业和烹饪神话建立在实验和混合的理念上——他有能力调整他熟悉的日本风味来取悦全世界食客，例如味噌黑鳕鱼。 |
| At this point in his biography, circa 1987, when he opened Matsuhisa in Beverly Hills, Madonna and Barbra Streisand become regulars, and celebrity becomes inextricable from his work. | 根据他的传记，在这个时期，大约1987年，当他在比佛利山庄开设“松久”(Matsuhisa)料理时，麦当娜(Madonna)和芭芭拉·史翠珊(Barbra Streisand)成了他的常客，从此他的工作与名人密不可分。 |
| Mr. Matsuhisa’s collaboration with Robert De Niro and Drew Nieporent produced the first Nobu in New York, and then a chain with 46 locations around the world, from Budapest and Moscow to Kuala Lumpur and Dallas. | 松久信幸与罗伯特·德尼罗(Robert De Niro)和德鲁·尼波兰(Drew Nieporent)合伙在纽约开了第一家Nobu，此后在全球46个地点开设连锁餐厅，从布达佩斯到莫斯科，从吉隆坡到达拉斯。 |
| For a short time during the pandemic, I wondered if restaurants were revealing themselves to me more completely, if takeout was a way of seeing a whole restaurant compressed into a box, stripped to its truest, barest self: just the food, packed up to go. | 在大流行的一段短暂时期内，我曾好奇，如果外卖是一种将一整个餐厅打包成一个盒子的方式，剥得只剩最真实、最赤裸的自我：只有食物，打包带走，那么餐厅是否更完整地向我展示了它们自己。 |
| Of course I was wrong, and that’s obvious now, but I didn’t realize quite how wrong until I went to Nobu Malibu, just as vaccinations were becoming more accessible and dining restrictions were lifted in Los Angeles. | 当然，现在已很明显，我是错的，但直到我去了Nobu Malibu，我才意识到我错得多离谱。这时洛杉矶的疫苗接种变得越来越容易，用餐限制也取消了。 |
| I’d forgotten how an enthusiastic, fast-moving, highly attentive team can make you feel. The vibes people can create and sustain by making the unrelenting demands of their work look effortless. | 我已经忘记了一个热情、高速运转、高度专注地团队可以给人带来什么样的感觉。人们通过将满足极高需求的工作做得看起来毫不费力，来创造和维持这种气氛。 |
| At Nobu Malibu, it’s not just the cooks and servers who are pros, who know their work inside out. The bussers are pros. The valets are pros. The man who weaves around tables at dusk to close the umbrellas and turn on the heat lamps as the temperature drops is a pro. And everyone on staff seems to have received formal training as a substitute Instagram boyfriend, ready to patiently take photos of you in front of the ocean — vertical, horizontal, and now one where you’re looking over here, perfect. | 在Nobu Malibu，不仅厨师和侍者是对自己的工作了如指掌的专业人士。杂工是专业人士。代客泊车司机是专业人士。黄昏时在桌子周围收起遮阳伞并根据温度的下降打开加热灯的人是专业人士。每一名工作人员似乎都接受过正式的培训，知道如何成为客人的Instagram上的替补男友，已准备好耐心地为你在大海前拍照——竖拍、横拍，还有现在这个你往这里看的角度，完美。 |
| Nobu Malibu may be part of a chain — a gigantic, high-end, international chain — but its pleasures aren’t exactly replicable. | Nobu Malibu也许是连锁餐厅的一员——一个巨大的、高端的、国际连锁店——但它的乐趣并不能被复制。 |
| The food is good, better than it needs to be considering the commercial power of the brand and the loyalty of its customer base, but the food is also nothing on its own. Without the charming, erudite server whispering conspiratorially to you that, you know what, the caviar white out really isn’t worth it. Without the celebrity spotting, without the clean cuts of fish, vivid and transparent in the sunlight, without the birds surfing the breeze at eye level and the ocean crashing below ledges of thirsty, flowering succulents. | 食物很好，考虑到品牌的商业力量和客户群的忠诚度的话，这些食物比它们应达到的水平还要好，但食物本身也没什么。如果没有迷人、博学的服务员对你俯身耳语，你知道吗，白鱼子酱真的不值得点。没有名人出现，没有在阳光下生动而透明的精致切割的鱼，没有视野中在微风中冲浪的鸟儿，没有海浪撞击岩石上喜水的开花的多肉植物。 |
| The food is good, but it’s not the point. If you want a respectable piece of miso cod, you can go to a number of places, including, obviously, any Nobu location. But if you want the salt-spray and the vibes, you’ll have to go to Malibu. | 食物很好，但这不是重点。如果你想要一块不错的味噌黑鳕鱼，有很多可以去的地方，当然，包括所有Nobu餐厅。但如果你想要海盐雾气和氛围，你就必须去马里布。 |
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