马背上的鹰猎人:探访蒙古阿泰尔_OK阅读网
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马背上的鹰猎人:探访蒙古阿泰尔
On Horseback Among the Eagle Hunters and Herders of the Mongolian Altai

来源:纽约时报    2021-05-07 10:03



        Nine-year-old Dastan, the son of a Kazakh eagle hunter, rode his pony alongside mine, cantering effortlessly without a saddle and giggling at my attempts to show my fluffy pony some affection — a gesture that the animal wasn’t accustomed to.
        九岁的达斯坦(Dastan)是一位哈萨克鹰猎人的儿子,他骑着矮种马跟在我骑的旁边,他不用马鞍,轻松自如地骑在慢跑起来的马上,看着我向我那匹毛茸茸的矮马表示关爱的尝试咯咯地笑——那个动物对我的示意并不习惯。
        Surrounding us was the vast, desolate landscape of the Altai Mountains of western Mongolia. From the grassy valley where horses grazed along the river, the rocky, gold-tinted terrain stretched endlessly toward the jagged ridges in the distance, with a dusting of snow heralding the arrival of winter.
        环绕着我们的是蒙古国西部阿尔泰山脉荒无人烟的地貌。从马儿在河边吃草的野草覆盖的山谷,到岩石嶙嶙、略染金色的山地,一直延伸到远处嶙峋的山脊,地上的一层薄雪预示着冬天的到来。
        On horseback with Dastan, I was reminded in some ways of my childhood in Wales, where I spent my days riding my pony through the countryside, enjoying the quiet natural beauty of my surroundings, always with a hot cup of tea waiting for me at the end of a long day.
        与达斯坦一起骑马,让我回想起我在威尔士度过的部分童年,我在那里花了很多时间骑着矮马穿越乡间,享受着周围宁静的自然美景,总有一杯热茶在漫长的一天结束后等着我的归来。
        In October 2019, after almost three years living and working in northern Iraq, where I covered the country’s efforts to defeat the Islamic State, I began working on a personal photography project that drew on my background and affinity with horses. My goal was to explore the relationships between animals — horses, in particular — and the people whose livelihoods depend on them.
        2019年10月,我结束了在伊拉克北部近三年的生活和工作,我曾在那里对该国抗击伊斯兰国的努力进行报道,开始了一个以我喜欢马的背景构想出来的个人摄影计划。我的目标是探索动物(尤其是马)与靠它们谋生的人们之间的关系。
        To start, I flew to western Mongolia to meet and photograph the iconic Kazakh hunters, horsemen and animal herders.
        一开始,我就飞到了蒙古国西部,与当地典型的哈萨克猎人、骑手和牧民相识,给他们拍照。
        With the help of a local guide and translator, I traveled from the town of Olgii, the capital of Bayan-Olgii province, to visit some of the seminomadic herding families who continue to live off the land in an extremely harsh environment.
        在一位当地导游兼翻译的帮助下,我从巴彦乌列盖省省首府乌列盖市出发,拜访了一些半游牧的牧民家庭,他们仍在极其恶劣的环境中以土地为生。
        Encompassing the westernmost area of Mongolia, Bayan-Olgii is the country’s only Muslim and Kazakh-majority province, or aimag.
         巴彦乌列盖省覆盖了蒙古国的最西部地区,是该国唯一一个以哈萨克族穆斯林为主的省(省的蒙古文是“艾马格”[aimag])。
        Deep in the Altai Mountains, where Russia, China, Kazakhstan and Mongolia meet, Kazakh people have for centuries developed and nurtured a special bond with golden eagles, training the birds to hunt foxes and other small animals.
        在跨越俄罗斯、中国、哈萨克斯坦和蒙古国的阿尔泰山脉深处,哈萨克人已在数百年的时间里与金雕建立起一种特殊的关系,训练金雕猎杀狐狸和其他小动物。
        Alankush, an eagle hunter, animal herder and father of two, said that he looks after his eagle “as if she were a baby.”
        阿兰库什(Alankush)是一位鹰猎人和牧民,也是两个孩子的父亲,他说他照顾他的鹰就像“它是个婴儿似的”。
        The ancient custom of hunting with eagles on horseback is traditionally passed down from father to son at a young age and is considered a great source of pride.
        骑在马背上与鹰狩猎的古老习俗,传统上是由父亲在儿子小的时候传授给儿子的,当地人将其视为一个极大的自豪之源。
        “All Kazakhs love to train eagles,” said Alankush. “Now we keep eagles mostly because it’s a traditional sport.”
        “所有的哈萨克人都爱驯鹰,”阿兰库什说。“现在我们养鹰主要是因为这是一项传统活动。”
        Serik Gingsbek, who was 26 when I met him, is a well-known and accomplished eagle hunter, sportsman and horse trainer. He talked at length with me about his special relationship with his eagle.
        我见到塞里克·金斯贝克(Serik Gingsbek)时,他26岁,已是位颇有名声的资深鹰猎人、运动员和驯马师。他向我详细讲述了他与他的鹰的特殊关系。
        “If my eagle feels bad, I feel bad,” he said. “If she’s happy, I’m happy. When we go to the mountains, we share everything together.”
        “如果我的鹰感觉难受,我也感觉难受,”他说。“如果它开心,我也开心。我们进山的时候总是分享所有的东西。”
        In recent generations, many Kazakh families have migrated from the countryside to urban areas, partly because of the difficulties in accessing health care, education, social services and employment opportunities. Among those who have stayed, the ancient practice of eagle hunting has provided an additional source of income from the visitors who pay to see the famed birds in action.
        在最近几代人里,许多哈萨克家庭已从农村迁徙到城市地区,部分原因是农村缺少医疗、教育、社会服务和就业机会。对那些留下来的人来说,古老的鹰猎活动为他们提供了额外的收入来源,因为游客愿意付费观看这种有名的鸟的捕猎表演。
        Training and caring for golden eagles is just one aspect of an animal herder’s life; others include training young horses, tending sheep, milking yaks and butchering meat.
        训练和照顾金雕只是牧民生活的一方面;其他方面还包括驯养幼马、放羊、给牦牛挤奶,以及屠宰动物。
        The daily demands of a traditional herding family’s life can leave little time for additional education or the pursuit of personal ambitions away from home.
        传统牧民家庭生活的日常需求让人几乎没有时间接受更多的教育,或去追求家庭以外的个人抱负。
        In response to their physically demanding lifestyles, parents who work as herders often send their children to boarding school in towns and cities, sometimes far from home, in the hope that their children will secure a more comfortable future.
        由于这种生活方式对人有很高的体力要求,牧民父母们常常把孩子送到有时离家很远的城镇寄宿学校去读书,抱着他们的孩子将享有一个更舒适未来的希望。
        Despite having lived his entire life in the mountains, Alankush said he hopes for a different path for his children. “I don’t have an education, and I’m not young,” he told me. “If I were young, maybe I’d go to Olgii to work — but for me it’s better to stay in the countryside.”
        尽管阿兰库什一辈子生活在山里,但他希望自己的孩子能走上一条不同的路。“我没受过教育,也不再年轻,”他对我说。“如果我还年轻,也许我会去乌列盖工作——但对我来说,最好还是留在乡下。”
        “Countryside life is very hard, especially for children,” he said. “That’s why I send my children to school. If they finish university, I hope they’ll find jobs in the city.”
        “乡下的生活非常艰苦,特别是对孩子来说,”他说。“这就是我送孩子去上学的原因。如果他们能念到大学毕业,我希望他们在城市里找到工作。”
        Paradoxically, such parental ambitions may result in the eventual disappearance of a culture and way of life that has survived for generations.
        矛盾的是,这些父母追求的目标可能会让一种代代相传的文化和生活方式最终消失。
        Outwardly, documenting the traditional ways of life in western Mongolia stands in stark contrast to my time spent photographing scenes of conflict and suffering in Iraq. But the two subjects share a common theme: the human struggle not just to survive, but to build a better future for oneself and one’s family.
        从表面上看,记录蒙古国西部传统生活方式的摄影,与我在伊拉克拍摄冲突和苦难的工作有很大的不同。但这两个题材有个共同的主题:那是人类的奋斗,不仅是为了生存,也是为了自己和家人有一个更美好的未来。
        That universal struggle can be found in situations of conflict, occupation and forced emigration, just as it can be found in the circumstances of a nomadic people subsisting on what many would consider meager resources.
        这种全世界都能看到的奋斗,在处于冲突中、被占领和被迫迁徙的人们中很常见,在依靠许多人认为是贫乏的资源生存的游牧民族身上同样可以看到。
        And despite the differences in the surroundings and the scope of the challenges faced by the people I met, I felt a connection — and shared a common language — with the Kazakh horsemen, through our mutual affinity with horses.
        尽管所处的环境不同,而且我遇到的人所面临的挑战也不同,但通过我们彼此对马的喜爱,我感受到了一种与哈萨克骑手们的联系,一种共同的语言。
        
        
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