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| 双语新闻 Bilingual News | 双语对照阅读 分级系列阅读 智能辅助阅读 在线英语学习 |
| [英文] [中文] [双语对照] [双语交替] [] |
| NEW YORK — At the H Mart on Broadway at 110th Street in Manhattan, the lights are bright on the singo pears, round as apples and kept snug in white mesh, so their skin will not bruise. Here are radishes in hot pink and winter white, gnarled ginseng grown in Wisconsin, broad perilla leaves with notched edges, and almost every kind of Asian green: yu choy, bok choy, ong choy, hon choy, aa choy, wawa choy, gai lan, sook got. | 纽约——在曼哈顿110街与百老汇街交界处的H Mart，明亮的灯光打在新高梨上，它们像苹果一样圆润，包裹在白色塑料泡沫网里，这样一来果皮就不会被碰坏。这里还有亮粉色的小萝卜、威斯康星州种植的雪白、分叉繁多的人参、宽阔的带锯齿边的紫苏叶，以及几乎所有种类的亚洲青菜：菜心、小白菜、空心菜、红苋菜、莴苣叶、娃娃菜、芥蓝、茼蒿。 |
| The theme is abundance — chiles from fat little thumbs to witchy fingers, bulk bins of fish balls, live lobsters brooding in blue tanks, a library of tofu. Cuckoo rice cookers gleam from the shelves like a showroom of Aston Martins. Customers fill baskets with wands of lemon grass, dried silvery anchovies, shrimp chips and wagyu beef sliced into delicate petals. | 应有尽有是这里的主题——辣椒从大拇指般短粗到巫婆手指般细长的都有，一箱箱的鱼丸，在蓝色水缸中孵化的活龙虾，种类繁多的豆腐。摆满锃亮的福库牌电饭煲的货架犹如阿斯顿·马丁斯(Aston Martins)的展厅。顾客们在购物篮里放入一根根柠檬草、风干银凤尾鱼、虾片和犹如花瓣般精美的和牛切片。 |
| For decades in America, this kind of shopping was a pilgrimage. Asian Americans could not just pop into the local Kroger or Piggly Wiggly for a bottle of fish sauce. To make the foods of their heritage, they often had to seek out the lone Asian grocery in town, which was salvation — even if cramped and dingy, with scuffed linoleum underfoot and bags of rice slumped in a corner. | 几十年来，这样的购物机会在美国是非常难得的。亚裔美国人想买一瓶鱼露的话，直接去当地的克罗格(Kroger)或小猪商店(Piggly Wiggly)是买不到的。为了烹饪传统菜式，他们常常需要去城中唯一的亚洲杂货店，就像得救了一样——即使那里逼仄而肮脏，脚下是破旧的油毡地，一包包大米堆在角落里。 |
| Il Yeon Kwon, a farmer’s son who left South Korea in the late 1970s when the countryside was still impoverished from war, opened the first H Mart in Woodside, Queens, in 1982. It was the middle of a recession. At the time, only about 1.5% of the American population was of Asian descent. | 权一研（Il Yeon Kwon，音）是农民的儿子。他于1970年代末离开了韩国，当时的农村仍因战争而处于贫困状态。他于1982年在皇后区伍德赛德开设了第一家H Mart。那是经济衰退的中期。当时，美国的亚裔只占人口约1.5％。 |
| Later that year, Vincent Chin, a Chinese American, was beaten to death in Detroit by two white autoworkers who were reportedly angered by the success of the Japanese car industry. Asian Americans, a disparate group of many origins that had historically not been recognized as a political force, came together to condemn the killing and speak in a collective voice. | 那年下半年，华裔美国人陈果仁在底特律被两名白人汽车工人殴打致死，据报道，他们是出于对日本汽车业的成功的愤怒。亚裔美国人——由许多不同血统的外族人组成的团体，历史上从未被视为政治力量——聚在一起谴责谋杀并以集体的声音发表讲话。 |
| Today, as they again confront hate-fueled violence, Asian Americans are the nation’s fastest-growing racial or ethnic group, numbering more than 22 million, nearly 7% of the total population. And there are 102 H Marts across the land, with vast refrigerated cases devoted to kimchi and banchan, the side dishes essential to any Korean meal. In 2020, the company reported $1.5 billion in sales. Later this year, it is set to open its largest outpost yet, in a space in Orlando, Florida, that is nearly the size of four football fields. | “在亚裔再次面对仇恨暴力的今天，他们是这个国家增长最快的种族或族裔群体，人口超过2200万，占总人口的7％。全国各地有102个H Mart，其中有大量冷藏柜专门用于泡菜和饭馔——韩国料理必不可少的小菜。2020年，该公司报告的销售额为15亿美元。今年晚些时候，它将在佛罗里达州奥兰多市开一家分店，面积有四个足球场那么大。” |
| And H Mart has competition: Other grocery chains that specialize in ingredients from Asia include Patel Brothers (Patel Bros, to fans), founded in Chicago; and, headquartered in California, Mitsuwa Marketplace and 99 Ranch Market — or Ranch 99, as Chinese speakers sometimes call it. They are part of a so-called ethnic or international supermarket sector estimated to be worth $46.1 billion, a small but growing percentage of the more than $653 billion American grocery industry. | H Mart也面临竞争：其他专门提供亚洲食材的杂货连锁店包括在芝加哥成立的Patel Brothers（粉丝们称其为Patel Bros），以及总部在加利福尼亚州的Mitsuwa市场和大华超级市场(99 Ranch Market)——说中文的人常叫它Ranch 99。它们是所谓的异国或国际超市行业的一部分，估计该行业价值461亿美元，在美国6530亿美元的杂货业中所占的比例很小，但是在不断增长。 |
| Many of these chains have a particular focus (H Mart’s is Korean products), but also attempt the difficult feat of catering to a variety of Asian American groups with different tastes and shopping preferences. | 许多这些连锁店都有某种专长（H Mart是韩国商品），但也尝试着迎合各种亚裔美国人群体，他们有不同的口味和购物偏好，这是一个艰难的挑战。 |
| Kwon’s first store still stands in Woodside, with a blue awning that bears H Mart’s original name, Han Ah Reum. This is commonly translated from Korean as “an armful,” but has a poetic nuance, invoking warmth and care, as in an embrace. | 权一研在伍德赛德的第一家店仍然在营业，蓝色的遮阳棚上面印着H Mart的原名“Han Ah Reum”（韩亚龙）。在韩语中通常被翻译为“满载而归”，但具有微妙的诗意，唤起温暖和关怀的感觉，就像躺在一个怀抱里。 |
| H Mart is “a beautiful, holy place,” writes musician Michelle Zauner, who performs under the name Japanese Breakfast, in her new memoir, “Crying in H Mart,” published last month. The book begins with her standing in front of the banchan refrigerators, mourning the death of her Korean-born mother. “We’re all searching for a piece of home, or a piece of ourselves.” | 上个月，以”Japanese Breakfast”为名的音乐家米歇尔·扎纳(Michelle Zauner)出版了新的回忆录《在H Mart哭泣》(Crying in H Mart)。她写道，H Mart是“美丽而圣洁的地方”。在书的一开始，她站在饭馔冰箱前，哀悼在韩国出生的母亲的去世。“我们都在寻找家的印记，或者我们自己的印记。” |
| As the 20th-century philosopher Lin Yutang wrote, “What is patriotism but the love of the food one ate as a child?” | 正如20世纪哲学家林语堂所写的：“爱国不就是对小时候吃过的好东西的一种眷恋？” |
| For an immigrant, cooking can be a way to anchor yourself in a world suddenly askew. There is no end to the lengths some might go to taste once more that birthday spoonful of Korean miyeok guk, a soup dense with seaweed, slippery on the tongue, or the faintly bitter undertow of beef bile in Laotian laap diip (raw beef salad). | 对于一个移民来说，在一个突然歪斜的世界里，做饭可以是一种让自己稳住的方式。有的人可以付出无限的努力，就为了能够再尝一口过生日时喝的韩式海带汤——一种加入大量海带的汤，入口柔滑——或是老挝生牛肉沙拉里牛胆汁的淡淡苦涩味。 |
| When Vilailuck Teigen — the co-author, with Garrett Snyder, of “The Pepper Thai Cookbook,” out in April — was a young mother in western Utah in the 1980s, she ordered 50-pound bags of rice by mail and drove 150 miles to Salt Lake City to buy chiles. She had no mortar and pestle, so she crushed spices with the bottom of a fish-sauce bottle. | 薇拉克·蒂根(Villailuck Teigen)是《辣椒泰菜食谱》(The Pepper Thai Cookbook)的联合作者——另一位作者是加勒特·斯奈德(Garrett Snyder)，该书于4月出版。1980年代的蒂根是犹他州西部的一位年轻母亲，她通过邮购订购了50磅重的大米，驱车150英里去盐湖城买辣椒。她没有研钵和杵，所以用鱼露瓶的瓶底研磨香料。 |
| When writer Jenny Han, 40, was growing up in Richmond, Virginia, in the ’90s, her family shopped at the hole-in-the-wall Oriental Market, run by a woman at their church. It was the one place where they could load up on toasted sesame oil and rent VHS tapes of Korean dramas, waiting to pounce when someone returned a missing episode. | 40多岁的作家珍妮·韩(Jenny Han)在90年代时在弗吉尼亚州里士满长大，她的家人在一个不起眼的“东方市场”购物，这个市场由他们所在教堂的女性经营。在那里，他们可以买上芝麻油，并租赁韩国电视剧的录像带，当有人归还缺失的一集时马上冲上去。 |
| A few states away, the future YouTube cooking star Emily Kim — better known as Maangchi — was newly arrived in Columbia, Missouri, with a stash of meju, bricks of dried soybean paste, hidden at the bottom of her bag. She was worried that in her new American home she would not be able to find such essentials. | 相隔几个州以外，YouTube上的未来烹饪之星艾米丽·金(Emily Kim)——或更广为人知的名字马昂基(Maangchi)——刚抵达密苏里州的哥伦比亚时，在她的背包最下层藏了大量meju——做成砖块的形状的风干的大豆酱。她担心在美国的新住地找不到这样的必需品。 |
| Then she stumbled on a tiny shop, also called Oriental Market. One day the Korean woman at the counter invited her to stay for a bowl of soup her husband had just made. | 然后，她偶然发现了一家小店，也叫“东方市场”。一天，收银台的韩国女人邀请她留下，喝一碗她丈夫刚做好的汤。 |
| “She was my friend,” Maangchi recalled. | 马昂基回忆道：“她是我的朋友。” |
| The H Mart of today may be a colossus, but it remains a family business. Kwon, 66, has two children with Elizabeth Kwon, 59, who grew up two blocks from the Woodside shop (where her mother still lives) and oversees store design. | 今天的H Mart可能是一个巨头，但仍然是家族企业。66岁的权一研和59岁的妻子伊丽莎白·权育有两个孩子。伊丽莎白·权在伍德赛德店（她母亲仍然住在那里）外两个街区的地方长大，负责店面设计。 |
| From the beginning, it was important to her that the stores were clean, modern and easy to navigate, to defy the stereotype of Asian groceries as grimy and run-down. | 从一开始，店内整洁、现代并易于寻找商品对她来说是很重要的，以打破人们心中对亚洲杂货铺肮脏破败的刻板印象。 |
| “It’s so emotional, shopping for food,” said her son, Brian Kwon, 34. “You don’t want to be in a place where you feel like you’re compromising.” | “买食物是一件有感情的事，”她34岁的儿子布莱恩·权(Brian Kwon)说。“你不想待在一个让你觉得自己在受委屈的地方。” |
| He never intended to devote his life to the store. But not long after he went abroad to take a job in Seoul — seeking to improve his Korean — his father asked him to come home and look over the company’s books, to make sure everything was running smoothly. | 他从没打算把自己的一生奉献给这家商店。但在他出国到首尔找工作后不久——为了提高他的韩语水平——父亲让他回家给公司管账，确保一切顺畅运行。 |
| It was, as Kim of the Canadian TV show “Kim’s Convenience” might say, a sneak attack. Once Brian Kwon entered the office, he never left. “My father called it his ‘golden plan,’ after the fact,” he said ruefully. He is now a co-president, alongside his mother and sister, Stacey, 33. (His father is the chief executive.) | 正如加拿大电视节目《金氏便利店》(Kim’s Convenience)中的金可能会说的那样，这是一次偷袭。布莱恩·权一进它的办公室就再也没能离开。“事后，我爸爸说这是他的‘黄金计划’，”他悲伤地说。他现在与母亲和33岁的姐姐斯泰西(Stacey)一起担任联席总裁。他的父亲是首席执行官。 |
| For many non-Asian customers, H Mart is itself a sneak attack. On their first visit, they are not actually looking for Asian ingredients; customer data shows that they are drawn instead to the variety and freshness of more familiar produce, seafood and meat. Only later do they start examining bags of Jolly Pong, a sweet puffed-wheat snack, and red-foil-capped bottles of Yakult — a fermented milk drink that sold out after it appeared in Han’s bestselling novel-turned-movie “To All the Boys I’ve Loved Before.” | 对于许多非亚裔消费者来说，H Mart本身就是一种偷袭。他们第一次来这里的时候，其实并不是来买亚洲食材；顾客数据显示，他们是被更熟悉的农产品、海鲜和肉类的品种和新鲜程度所吸引。之后，他们才开始查看一袋袋的Jolly Pong （一种甜味膨化小麦小吃）和红箔盖的养乐多（一种发酵牛奶饮料，在珍妮·韩的畅销小说改编的电影《致所有我爱的男孩》[To All the Boys I’ve Loved Before]中出现后被抢购一空）。 |
| To be welcoming to non-Koreans, H Mart puts up signs in English. At the same time, the younger Kwon said, “We don’t want to be the gentrified store.” So while some non-Asians recoil from the tanks of lobsters, the Kwons are committed to offering live seafood. | 为了欢迎非韩裔客人，H Mart贴出了英文招牌。与此同时，布莱恩·权说，“我们不想成为士绅化的商店。”因此，尽管一些非亚裔对装着活龙虾的蓄水池望而却步，但权家仍致力于提供活海鲜。 |
| Deuki Hong, 31, the chef and founder of the Sunday Family Hospitality Group, in San Francisco, remembers the H Mart of his youth in New Jersey as “just the Korean store” — a sanctuary for his parents, recent immigrants still not at ease in English. Everyone spoke Korean, and all that banchan was a relief: His mother would pack them in her cart for dinner, then pretend she had made them herself. | 31岁的洪德基（Deuki Hong，音）是旧金山周日家庭招待集团(Sunday Family Hospitality Group)的主厨和创始人，他记得自己年轻时，新泽西州的H Mart“只是一家韩国商店”——是他新移民父母的避难所，他们还不太会说英语。店里所有人都说韩语，店里卖的所有的小菜都让人安心：他的母亲会把它们装进她的餐车里当晚餐，还假装是她自己做的。 |
| Later, as a teenager, he started seeing his Chinese and Filipino American friends there, too, and then his non-Asian friends. Spurred by postings on social media, young patrons would line up to buy the latest snack sensation — “the snack aisle is notorious,” Hong said — like Haitai honey butter chips and Xiao Mei boba ice cream bars. (The current craze: Orion chocolate-churro-flavored snacks that look like baby turtles.) | 后来，十几岁的时候，他开始在那里看到他的华裔和菲律宾裔美国朋友，然后是他的非亚裔朋友。在社交媒体帖子的刺激下，年轻的顾客们会排队购买最新的大热零食——“零食通道非常有名的，”洪德基说——比如海苔蜂蜜黄油片和小美珍珠雪糕。（当前流行的是长得像小海龟的猎户座巧克力吉事果零食。） |
| In “Mister Jiu’s in Chinatown,” a new cookbook by chef Brandon Jew and Tienlon Ho, Jew, 41, recalls Sunday mornings in San Francisco with his ying ying (paternal grandmother), taking three bus transfers to traverse the city, on a mission for fresh chicken — sometimes slaughtered on the spot — and ingredients like pea shoots and lotus leaves. | 在厨师布兰登·朱（Brandon Jew，音）和泰伦·何（Tienlon Ho，音）最新的食谱书《华埠的朱先生》(Mister Jiu’s in Chinatown)中，41岁的布兰登·朱回忆童年时的周日早晨，在旧金山和奶奶一起，三次换乘公交车穿越城市，寻找新鲜的鸡肉——有时是当场宰杀——还有如豌豆芽和荷叶等食材。 |
| He still prefers “that Old World kind of shopping,” he said, from independent vendors, each with his own specialties and occasional grouchiness and eccentricities. But he knows that the proliferation of supermarkets like H Mart and 99 Ranch makes it easier for newcomers to Asian food to recreate his recipes. | 他说，他仍然更喜欢“那种旧世界的购物方式”——从独立的供应商那里购买，每个供应商都有自己的特色，他们偶尔也会发牢骚，会有一些怪癖。但他也知道，H Mart和99 Ranch等超市的兴起，让亚洲食品的初学者可以更容易模仿他的食谱。 |
| “Access to those ingredients leads to a deeper understanding of the cuisine,” he said. “And that in turn can become a deeper understanding of a community and a culture.” | “接触到这些食材可以让人对烹饪产生更深入的了解，”他说。“而这反过来可以加深对一个社区和文化的理解。” |
| These days, even mainstream markets carry Asian ingredients. Teigen, who now lives in Los Angeles, often buys basics like fish sauce, palm sugar and curry paste from the Thai section at Ralph’s. Still, she goes to 99 Ranch for coconut milk, whole jackfruit and, above all, garlic in bulk — “a giant bag that I can use for months.” | 如今，甚至连主流市场也有亚洲食材。现居洛杉矶的泰根经常从拉尔夫(Ralph’s)的泰国区购买基本食材，比如鱼露、棕榈糖和咖喱酱。尽管如此，她还是会去99 Ranch购买椰奶、整只菠萝蜜，最重要的是，买散装的大蒜——“一大袋，我可以用好几个月。” |
| (Garlic is an urgent matter for Asian Americans: Zauner, 32, writes in “Crying in H Mart” that the store is “the only place where you can find a giant vat of peeled garlic, because it’s the only place that truly understands how much garlic you’ll need for the kind of food your people eat.”) | 对于亚裔美国人来说，大蒜是一个迫切的问题：32岁的扎纳在《在H Mart哭泣》中写道，这家店是“唯一一个能找到一大桶去皮大蒜的地方，因为它是唯一一个真正了解你的族群所吃的食物需要多少大蒜的地方”。 |
| But Meherwan Irani, 51, the chef of Chai Pani in Asheville, North Carolina, and Atlanta, feels that something is lost when you buy paneer and grass-fed ghee at a Whole Foods Market. You miss the cultural immersion, he says, “getting a dunk and having horizons broadened.” | 但是，51岁的梅赫万·伊拉尼(Meherwan Irani)，北卡罗来纳州阿什维尔和亚特兰大的Chai Pani餐厅的主厨说，在全食超市买印度奶酪和草饲酥油时，你会总觉得少了点什么。他说，你怀念那种文化沉浸感，“一种浸入其中的感觉和开阔的视野。” |
| “An Indian grocery is not just a convenience — it’s a temple,” he said. “You’re feeding the soul. Come in and pick up on the energy.” | “印度杂货店不仅仅是一种便利店——它还是一座寺庙，”他说。“你可以在里面滋养灵魂。进去汲取能量。” |
| In the TV special “Luda Can’t Cook,” which premiered in February, Irani takes rapper Ludacris to Cherians, an Indian supermarket in Atlanta. Once Irani had to scrounge for spices like cumin and turmeric at health food stores; now, surrounded by burlap sacks stuffed with cardamom pods and dried green mango, he tells Ludacris, “This is my house.” | 在2月份首播的电视特别节目《卢达不会做饭》(Luda Can’t Cook)里，伊拉尼带着说唱歌手卢达克里斯(Ludacris)去了亚特兰大的一家印度超市Cherians。以前伊拉尼得在健康食品店寻找孜然和姜黄等香料；如今，在布满豆蔻荚和干芒果的粗麻袋围绕下，他告诉卢达克里斯，“这是我的房子。” |
| Writer Min Jin Lee, 52, remembers how important H Mart was to people working in Manhattan’s Koreatown in the ’80s, when it was still called Han Ah Reum and “tiny, with almost no place to negotiate yourself through the aisles,” she said. (It has since moved across West 32nd Street to a larger space.) Her parents ran a jewelry wholesale business around the corner, and relied on the store for a cheap but substantial dosirak (lunch box) that came with cups of soup and rice. | 52岁的作家李敏金(Min Jin Lee)还记得1980年代在曼哈顿韩国城工作的人对H Mart有多么重要，当时它还叫韩亚龙，“它很小，过道几乎没地方让你通过，”她说。（后来它搬到了西32街对面一个更大的地方。）她的父母在附近开了一家珠宝批发店，在这家店购买便宜但分量很大的午餐盒，里面会有汤和米饭。 |
| She sees the modern incarnation of the store as a boon for second- and third-generation Korean Americans, including thousands of Korean-born adoptees raised by white American parents, who “want to find some sort of connection to the food of their families,” she said. “There aren’t gatekeepers to say who’s in or who’s out.” | 她认为，这家店的现代形式对第二代和第三代韩裔美国人来说是一种福音，其中包括数以千计在韩国出生、由美国白人父母抚养长大的被收养者，他们“想要找到与家庭食物的某种联系，”她说。“没有一个守门人可以决定谁能进来或者让谁出去。” |
| Maangchi moved to Manhattan in 2008, and used to buy most of her ingredients from one of the H Marts in Flushing, Queens. (These days she just walks to Koreatown.) To save money, she would take the subway, bringing an empty backpack and her own shopping cart, then walk for 20 minutes. | 马昂基在2008年搬到曼哈顿，她的大部分食材都是在皇后区法拉盛的H Mart买的。（如今她都是步行去韩国城。）为了省钱，她会带上自己的购物车，背个空背包，坐地铁，然后步行20分钟。 |
| “Once I get there, my heart is beating,” she said. On the way home, she would stop at a barbecue spot and drink soju. “Come home drunk,” she said with a laugh. | “一到那里，我的心就怦怦直跳，”她说。在回家的路上，她会在一个烧烤摊停下来喝点烧酒。“喝醉再回家来，”她笑着说。 |
| Sometimes when she is at H Mart, one of her more than 5 million YouTube subscribers recognizes her and flags her down. Those seeking advice (or a photo op) are mostly non-Korean. But, she said, there are also “old ladies who come up to me and say, ‘I forgot everything — I left Korea long ago.’” | 有时候，当她在H Mart的时候，她在YouTube上的500多万订阅者中会有人认出并叫住她。那些要求建议或拍照的大多不是韩国人。但是，她说，也有“老年女性走过来对我说，‘我什么都不记得了，我很早以前就离开韩国了。’” |
| Recently, with the rise in incidents of violence against people of Asian descent, her fans have been sending her messages: “Maangchi, I’m so worried about you these days.” | 最近，随着针对亚裔的暴力事件增多，她的粉丝一直在给她发信息：“马昂基，这些天我很担心你。” |
| This is the paradox: that at a time when Americans are embracing Asian culture as never before, at least in its most accessible forms — eating ramen, drinking chai, swooning over the K-pop band BTS — anti-Asian sentiment is growing. With visibility comes risk. | 这是一个悖论：当美国人前所未有地接受亚洲文化（至少是以最容易接受的形式——吃拉面、喝印度茶、迷恋韩国流行组合BTS）的时候，反亚裔情绪正在增长。曝光的增加带来了风险。 |
| For Lee, this makes H Mart a comfort. “I like going there because I feel good there,” she said. “In the context of hatred against my community, to see part of my culture being valued — it’s exceptional.” | 对于李敏金来说，这使得H Mart成为一种安慰。“我喜欢去那里，因为我在那里感觉很好，”她说。“针对我的社区充满了仇恨，在这样的背景下，看到我的文化的一部分受到重视——这很特别。” |
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