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| I consistently give the same advice to aspiring photographers: Wherever home is, that’s where you should begin. |
| 我一直给心怀抱负的摄影师同一条建议：家在哪里，你就应该从哪里开始。 |
| It isn’t always easy advice to follow. After all, our understandable curiosity and fascination with the exotic — that which is different from what we are used to — sends us abroad by the hundreds of millions every year. And, having lived and worked everywhere but in Sweden for most of my life, I’ve been terrible at following it myself. |
| 遵循这条建议并不总是那么容易。毕竟，我们对异域的好奇和着迷无可厚非，正是这些与习惯的日常不同的事物，每年都将我们中的无数人带到国外。而一生中大部分时间都在瑞典以外的地方生活和工作的我，自己也很不善于遵循这一建议。 |
| For me, Sweden has always been a place to rest, relax and spend time with family. It’s rarely been a destination to explore in the ways that I do in Madagascar, Malawi or Zambia — until now. |
| 对我来说，瑞典一直是一个休息、放松和与家人共度时光的地方。它很少成为一个值得我像在马达加斯加、马拉维或赞比亚那样去探索的目的地——直到现在。 |
| With all of my foreign assignments and trips canceled this year, I decided to make the most of the closed borders and travel north from my home near Stockholm. What began as a single two-week trip quickly turned into a series of journeys that lasted several months and spanned the entire year, starting and finishing in midwinter. |
| 由于今年我所有的海外任务和出差都被取消了，我决定充分探索封闭边境之内，从斯德哥尔摩附近的家向北走。原定只有两周的旅途，很快就变成了持续数月、贯穿全年的一系列旅行，从隆冬开始，到隆冬结束。 |
| The first thing to know about spending winter in northern Sweden is that sunburn won’t be much of an issue. The second is that you’ll want to pack a headlamp and lots of warm clothes. Sweden spans roughly the same latitudes as Alaska, and, while climate change is bringing milder winters in its wake, it doesn’t have any impact on the length of our daylight. |
| 要在瑞典北部过冬，首先要知道的是无需担心晒伤问题。第二是要准备一盏照明灯和大量保暖衣物。瑞典和阿拉斯加的纬度大致相同，尽管气候变化带来了更暖的冬天，但对白天的长短没有任何影响。 |
| And yet, traveling across the snow and ice on dog sleds, skis or snowmobiles, or lying on one’s back staring up at the magical light show of the aurora borealis, I hardly minded the lack of daylight. Instead, what caught my attention was the mesmerizing beauty of the white, frozen landscapes and the endless shades of blue. Away from buildings and roads, the snow lit up even the darkest nights. |
| 然而，当我在狗拉雪橇、滑雪板或雪地摩托上穿行于冰雪中时，或是躺着仰面凝视神奇的北极光秀时，我一点也不介意日光稀缺。相反，吸引我注意力的是雪白、冰冻的风景，和无尽蓝色阴影的迷人魅力。远离房屋和道路，雪甚至照亮了最暗的夜。 |
| Whether basking in a sauna or going for invigorating dips in the nearby river (through a hole in the ice), I spent virtually all of my time outdoors — which made exploring Sweden’s northernmost region, known as Swedish Lapland, about as safe as travel can be during a pandemic. |
| 不管是蒸桑拿还是在附近的河里（在冰面上挖个洞）跳水，我几乎所有的时间都在户外度过——这也让探索瑞典的最北部地区，也就是众所周知的瑞典拉普兰，成为了疫情期间最安全的旅行。 |
| I was based mostly in and around the small hamlet of Kangos, and Johan Stenevad, my host at Lapland Guesthouse, showed me a world I had previously only seen in photographs: frozen bogs, lakes and rivers; gangly moose and curious reindeer; snow-covered trees; endless snow-shoveling; and a never-waning excitement whenever the sky was clear and the northern lights made an appearance. |
| 我大部分时间都住在康奥斯的小村庄及其附近，我在拉普兰宾馆(Lapland Guesthouse)的接待人约翰·斯特纳瓦德(Johan Stenevad)向我展示了一个以前我只在照片上看到过的世界：冻结的沼泽、湖泊与河流；瘦长的麋鹿和充满好奇的驯鹿；白雪覆盖的树木；无休止地铲雪；还有每当天色晴朗，北极光一出现，人们那永不减退的兴奋。 |
| But Johan opened my eyes to something else, too. One day, on a snowmobile path lined by tall trees on both sides, he turned off his engine and asked me what I saw. |
| 但约翰也在另一件事上让我大开眼界。有一天，在一条两旁长着高大树木的雪地摩托车道上，他关掉引擎，问我看到了什么。 |
| “Trees,” I answered. “A forest.” |
| “树，”我回答道。“一片森林。” |
| He shook his head. |
| 他摇了摇头。 |
| “Not a forest. A plantation. Soon, this is all that will be left,” he said, explaining that the straight rows of trees were being farmed. They were all the same species, age and size. |
| “不是森林。而是农场。这里很快就会只剩下这些了，”他说，并解释这一排排笔直的树木是种植的。它们的种类、树龄和大小都一样。 |
| Johan was right. The great northern wilderness — the ancient boreal forests that once seemed endless — has been ruthlessly clear-cut for biofuel and paper and replaced by monoculture plantations of spruce or pine for over half a century. Only a fraction of the boreal forests remains, and that fraction grows smaller every year. |
| 约翰没说错。北部大荒野——曾经看似无穷无尽的古老北方森林——被无情地砍伐殆尽用作生物燃料，取而代之的是半个世纪以来单一的云杉或松树农场。北方针叶林只剩下一小部分，而且这一小部分每年都在减少。 |
| In addition, wind turbines up to a thousand foot tall are being constructed throughout northern Sweden, their flashing lights visible for tens of miles, the previously dark nights lit up like airport runways. Many such projects are being fought tooth and nail by local communities as well as conservation organizations. |
| 此外，瑞典北部正在建造高达1000英尺的风力涡轮机，其闪烁的灯光能照亮数十英里远，以往黑暗的夜晚就像机场跑道一样亮了起来。许多这样的项目正受到当地社区和保护机构的强烈反对。 |
| “This will be the end of both tourism and of our communities,” Johan added. |
| “这将是旅游业和我们社区的末日，”约翰补充道。 |
| Meanwhile, the Sámi — an Indigenous people who live mainly in the northern reaches of Sweden, Norway, Finland and Russia — are facing an existential crisis. Their lives and culture are inexorably linked to the old-growth forests and the reindeer who populate the region. |
| 与此同时，主要生活在瑞典、挪威、芬兰和俄罗斯北部的土著民族萨米人，正面临着生存危机。他们的生活和文化与古老的原始森林和驯鹿有着不可分割的联系。 |
| The slow-growing lichen and mushrooms upon which the reindeer depend for their survival are not found in pine or spruce plantations, so the death of one means the death of the other, and an uncertain future for an entire people. |
| 松树或云杉农场里没有驯鹿赖以生存的生长缓慢的地衣和蘑菇，于是一个种类的死亡意味着另一种类的死亡，以及整个民族的前途未卜。 |
| “We are not visitors in nature,” said Brita Stina Sjaggo of the Luokta-Mávas reindeer herding district. “We are part of the forest, and the forest is part of us.” |
| “我们不是自然的游客，”在洛克塔-马瓦斯(Luokta-Mávas)驯鹿牧区工作的布里塔·斯蒂娜·沙戈(Brita Stina Sjaggo)说。“我们是森林的一部分，森林也是我们的一部分。” |
| Hers is a sentiment that resonates deep within me. It is one that too many of us have forgotten, and one that I believe to be essential for our own survival as well as that of the natural world. |
| 她的观点在我内心深处产生了共鸣。我们很多人都已经忘记了这一点，而我相信它对于我们自己和自然世界的生存都至关重要。 |
| Perhaps ironically, our curiosity-induced desire to travel — despite its undeniable impact on our climate — may prove to be one of our strongest assets in the race to save Earth’s biodiversity. What we come to know, we care about, and what we care about, we are willing to fight for. Not to mention that, for rural communities, tourism is often one of the strongest economic alternatives to logging, mining or otherwise commodifying the last of our wild places. |
| 讽刺的是，也许在拯救地球生物多样性的紧迫事业里，我们出于好奇而产生的旅行欲望——尽管这对气候有不可否认的影响——可能会被证明是我们最强大的武器之一。我们了解什么，我们就会关心什么，我们关心什么，就愿意为之奋斗。更不用提对于农业社区而言，旅游往往是对砍伐、采矿或其他将我们最后的荒野商品化最有力的经济发展替代办法之一。 |
| We will forever be curious about the world around us. And, since, curiosity often leads to understanding, I see this as an incredible net positive. But “the world around us” doesn’t have to be tens of thousands of miles away. The number of people who call a place “exotic” will always be greater than the number of people who call that place “home.” Perhaps we can learn to treat our local surroundings with the same level of engagement and the same willingness to listen as we do when traveling to faraway destinations. |
| 我们将永远对周围的世界保持好奇。而且，由于好奇往往通向理解，我认为这是一个非常棒的积极因素。但“我们周围的世界”并不一定是数万英里外的远方。把一个地方称为“异域”的人，总多于把这个地方称为“家乡”的人。也许我们可以学着像去远方旅行一样，用同样的投入态度和倾听意愿来对待我们周遭的环境。 |
| As the year draws to a close, I find myself incredibly grateful for the opportunity I’ve had to explore the northernmost parts of my native Sweden. It truly is a wonderland, especially in winter. But I am equally grateful to have seen through the veil, allowing me to add my voice to the thousands of others who wish it to remain one of Europe’s wild wonders. |
| 随着这一年接近尾声，我发现自己非常感激能得到这个探索我的祖国瑞典最北部的机会。它确实是一处仙境，尤其是在冬天。但我同样感激的是，看透真相之后，使我能够与无数希望它继续作为一处欧洲荒野奇迹的人一起发声。 |
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