知名华裔设计师王大仁遭多名男性指控性行为不端_OK阅读网
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知名华裔设计师王大仁遭多名男性指控性行为不端
Alexander Wang, Who Built His Brand Around Partying, Faces More Misconduct Claims

来源:纽约时报    2021-02-19 06:02



        There was a time when Alexander Wang threw the wildest and weirdest parties of New York Fashion Week. He built adult playgrounds inspired by carnivals and frat houses, catered by Hooters and McDonald’s, hosted at gas stations and filled with pole dancers, where uninhibited celebrities took home rolling papers as party favors.
        曾几何时,王大仁(Alexander Wang)还在纽约时装周(New York Fashion Week)举办最疯狂、最奇异的派对。他建造以嘉年华和大学兄弟会为灵感的成人游乐场,由猫头鹰餐厅(Hooters)和麦当劳提供餐饮,在加油站举办,到处都是钢管舞者,纵情狂欢的名流把烟纸带回家作为派对礼物。
        Today the designer is at a crossroads. A number of people have accused him of sexual misconduct, often at parties or nightclubs. Most of the claims were made anonymously on social media. Now, the high-profile victims’ rights lawyer Lisa Bloom told The New York Times she is representing 10 men with allegations against Mr. Wang and his company.
        如今,这位设计师处在一个十字路口。很多人指控他性行为不端,通常是在派对或夜总会上。大多数指控都是在社交媒体上匿名提出。如今,备受瞩目的受害者维权律师丽莎·布鲁姆(Lisa Bloom)告诉《纽约时报》(The New York Times),她正在代理10名男子对王大仁及其公司的指控。
        Mr. Wang has promised to defend his reputation vigorously, calling the allegations lies — “baseless and grotesquely false” in a statement released on New Year’s Eve.
        王大仁此前承诺会奋力维护自己的声誉,他在新年夜发布声明,称这些指控是谎言——“毫无根据,荒诞不经。”
        So far no legal action has been taken by Ms. Bloom or Mr. Wang.
        到目前为止,布鲁姆和王大仁都尚未采取任何法律行动。
        “I never engaged in the atrocious behavior described and would never conduct myself in the manner that’s been alleged,” Mr. Wang said in the statement.
        “我从未进行过这些所谓的残暴行为,也永远不会以我被指控的那些方式行事,”王大仁在声明中说。
        Mr. Wang has since gone quiet, hiring at least two high-profile lawyers of his own, Eric M. George and Andrew B. Brettler, while continuing to oversee his company. On Feb. 12, for the first time in six weeks, the official Alexander Wang Instagram account posted something new to its feed: an animated video celebrating the Lunar New Year.
        此后,王大仁一直保持沉默,他给自己至少聘请了两位著名律师——埃里克·M·乔治(Eric M. George)和安德鲁·B·布雷特勒(Andrew B. Brettler),同时继续管理他的公司。2月12日,王大仁的Instagram官方帐号六周来首次发布了新内容:一个庆祝春节的动画视频。
        That post came a few days before the start of New York Fashion Week, which Mr. Wang, 37, hasn’t participated in since 2018.
        这个帖子是在纽约时装周开幕前几天发布的,37岁的王大仁自2018年以来就没有参加过纽约时装周。
        Mr. Wang made his runway shows into democratic, public experiences and built a fashion empire around partying. With $350 T-shirts and ripped denim, he outfitted Manhattan’s cool kids; his entourage, the Wang Gang, was staffed with waiflike and disheveled women, rarely seen without their smudged eyeliner and Alexander Wang leather jackets.
        王大仁将自己的时装秀变成了平民化、公开化的体验,并围绕派对建立起一个时尚帝国。他那些价值350美元的T恤和破牛仔装成了曼哈顿酷孩子们的服装;他的扈从“王家帮”(Wang Gang)是一群邋里邋遢、衣冠不整的女人,总是画着脏兮兮的眼线,穿着王大仁品牌的皮夹克。
        “He was always known as very personable and professional, and also a big partyer — but look, that’s normal for fashion,” said the fashion publicist Kelly Cutrone. “It is considered pretty normal after fashion week to pound to the ground, with very, very, very late nights.”
        “他一直以亲切和专业著称,也很爱搞派对——但是你看,这在时尚界是很正常的,”时尚公关凯利·卡特罗恩(Kelly Cutrone)说。“人们认为,时装周结束后,在非常非常晚的深夜里一头倒在地上是很正常的。”
        The accusations against Mr. Wang come at a moment when people seem to have more license to speak up about mistreatment and harassment. The style of partying he and others in fashion were known for is no longer universally celebrated, but instead is often interrogated as a playground for predatory behavior.
        对王大仁的指控出现在人们似乎更能开口讨论虐待和骚扰的时刻。他和其他时尚界人士为世人熟悉的派对风格不再受到普遍赞誉,反而经常被当作掠夺行为的游乐场并遭到审视。
        The 10 men represented by Ms. Bloom include David Casavant, a 30-year-old fashion stylist and fashion archivist who occasionally worked with Mr. Wang professionally and also encountered him socially at parties and clubs.
        布鲁姆代理的10名男性包括30岁的时尚造型师和时装保管师戴维·卡萨万特(David Casavant),后者偶尔会与王大仁进行专业合作,也会在派对和俱乐部的社交场合遇到他。
        In January 2017, Mr. Casavant was at the Good Room, a Brooklyn club when, he said, Mr. Wang approached him and pulled down his pants and underwear. A friend standing next to Mr. Casavant confirmed the incident to The Times.
        2017年1月,卡萨万特去了布鲁克林的好房间俱乐部(Good Room),他说,王大仁走近他,拉下他的裤子和内裤。站在卡萨万特身边的一位朋友向《纽约时报》证实了这一事件。
        “I was so apparently in a vulnerable state,” said Mr. Casavant, who was drunk at the time and believed Mr. Wang’s intention was to “humiliate” him; he also accused Mr. Wang of trying to undress him on earlier occasions at a club. “Even if it’s at a party late at night, I don’t think that’s normal behavior.”
        “我当时显然处在难以防备的状态,”卡萨万特说。当时他喝醉了,认为王大仁的意图是“羞辱”他;他还指责王大仁早些时候曾在一家俱乐部试图脱掉他的衣服。“即使是在深夜派对上,我也不认为这是正常的行为。”
        According to a letter to The Times from Mr. George, one of Mr. Wang’s lawyers, the designer denied ever pulling down Mr. Casavant’s pants and underwear.
        王大仁的律师之一乔治在给《纽约时报》的一封信中写道,王大仁否认曾扯下卡萨万特的裤子和内裤。
        That letter attempted to discredit Mr. Casavant and said he had an “irrefutable yearslong personal animus toward Mr. Wang.” Two examples of that animus, the letter said, include Mr. Casavant once accusing Mr. Wang of “ruining Balenciaga,” and Mr. Casavant once, at the Good Room, invading Mr. Wang’s booth and refusing to leave.
        那封信试图破坏卡萨万特的名誉,称他“多年来对王大仁怀有无可辩驳的个人敌意”。关于这种敌意,信中举了两个例子,包括卡萨万特有一次指责王大仁“毁了巴黎世家(Balenciaga)”,还有一次,卡萨万特在“好房间”闯入王大仁的包间,还拒绝离开。
        Ms. Bloom, Mr. Casavant’s lawyer, said in response: “Mr. Casavant stands by his account. Mr. Wang’s ridiculous personal attacks on him say more about Mr. Wang than they do about him.”
        卡萨万特的律师布鲁姆回应说:“卡萨万特坚持自己的说法。王大仁对他荒谬的人身攻击反而更能揭露王大仁自己的真面目。”
        In late December, Mr. Casavant watched as stories about Mr. Wang’s partying circulated on social media. Most were anonymous, amplified by Diet Prada and another Instagram account dedicated to exposing the inner workings of the modeling industry.
        12月底,卡萨万特看到有关王大仁派对的故事在社交媒体上流传。讲述者大都是匿名的,被“Diet Prada”和另一个致力于揭露模特行业内幕的Instagram帐户广为传播。
        But other accusers identified themselves. On TikTok, Owen Mooney, a model, accused Mr. Wang of groping him at a club in 2017. Gia Garison, another model, told The Guardian that the designer tried to pull her underwear down at a club in the same year.
        但也有一些指控者表明了自己的身份。在TikTok上,模特欧文·穆尼(Owen Mooney)指责王大仁2017年在一家俱乐部对自己动手动脚。另一名模特吉亚·加里森(Gia Garison)告诉《卫报》(The Guardian),同一年,王大仁在一家俱乐部试图扯下她的内衣。
        In his letter, Mr. George said Mr. Casavant’s claims were “preposterous” and had been “copied” from Mr. Mooney’s statements.
        乔治在信中说,卡萨万特的说法是“荒谬的”,而且是从穆尼的声明中“抄来的”。
        Mr. Casavant decided to publicly come forward after Mr. Wang issued his New Year’s Eve statement, in which he said, “seeing these lies about me being perpetuated as truths has been infuriating.”
        在王大仁发表新年夜声明之后,卡萨万特决定公开站出来。他在声明中说,“看到这些关于我的谎言被当作真相延续下去,让人感到气愤。”
        “I didn’t like the idea that people could be branded as liars who weren’t,” Mr. Casavant said. “I didn’t feel a necessary response from the fashion industry about it. Which I can understand — I get it, they were mainly anonymous, so that’s fine. But here I am. I’m sitting in front of you. I’m saying who I am. I’m not anonymous anymore.”
        “我不喜欢无辜的人被贴上说谎者的标签,”卡萨万特说。“我觉得时尚界没有对此作出必要的回应。这我可以理解——我明白,他们大多是匿名的,所以无关紧要。但是现在我来了。我就坐在你们面前。我说出了我是谁。我不再是匿名人士了。”
        In the late aughts, Mr. Wang led a new wave of energetic talent in New York fashion. He was often mentioned in the company of other emerging Asian designers of diverse backgrounds, including Joseph Altuzarra, Jason Wu and Prabal Gurung. Of the group, Mr. Wang’s line was the most commercially embraced, and intentionally so: He provided the official uniform of the glamorous party girl.
        过去10年里,王大仁在纽约时尚界引领着充满活力的天才浪潮。他经常和约瑟夫·奥图扎拉(Joseph Altuzarra)、吴季刚(Jason Wu)和普拉巴尔·高隆(Prabal Gurung) 等不同背景的亚洲新锐设计师一起被提及。在这群人中,王大仁的品牌是商业上最受欢迎的,而且他是有意为之——他提供了迷人派对女郎的标准制服。
        He was also championed and mentored by powerful women in the fashion establishment, like Anna Wintour and Diane von Furstenberg.
        他还受到安娜·温图尔(Anna Wintour)和黛安·冯·芙丝汀宝(Diane von Furstenberg)等时尚界权威女性的支持和指导。
        He “had strong financial foundations, unlike many of his peers,” said Gary Wassner, an early investor in Mr. Wang’s business. “He had what it took to be an international phenomenon. And he understood that his success lay in creating a cool, edgy and youthful world to which everyone felt like they were invited.”
        “和许多同行不一样,他拥有雄厚的财力,”王大仁的早期投资者加里·沃斯纳(Gary Wassner)说。“他具备成为国际现象的特质。他明白自己的成功在于创造了一个酷炫、前卫、年轻的世界,每个人都觉得自己收到它的邀请。”
        In 2012, he was named creative director of Balenciaga, among the most high-profile recruitments of an American to lead a revered European fashion house since Tom Ford and Marc Jacobs were hired by Gucci and Louis Vuitton in the 1990s.
        他在2012年成为巴黎世家的创意总监,这是自1990年代汤姆·福特(Tom Ford)和马克·雅各布斯(Marc Jacobs)被古驰(Gucci)和路易·威登(Louis Vuitton)聘用以来,再一次有一名美国人受聘执掌显赫的欧洲时尚品牌。
        In 2015, he left, after just six seasons, returning to his namesake label full-time. Since then, there has been a revolving door of chief executives at the Wang label — including when Mr. Wang himself replaced his sister-in-law in 2016.
        2015年,在仅仅六个时装季之后,他离开巴黎世家,全职回到了他的同名品牌。自那以来,他的同名品牌就一直在更换首席执行官——包括在2016年亲自接替他的嫂子。
        His original party girl muses, like Vanessa Traina and Zoë Kravitz, had grown up; some had started families and cut down on their all-nighters. Some people inside his company thought the brand should mature past its wild-child image, too — past the headlines about a topless Miley Cyrus attending a Bushwick warehouse party hosted by Mr. Wang, or ad campaigns starring R. Kelly, currently awaiting trial for racketeering and child pornography charges.
        他最初的派对缪斯女神——例如瓦妮莎·特拉纳(Vanessa Traina)和佐伊·克拉维兹(Zoë Kravitz)——已不再是小孩子;一些人已经成家,减少了通宵活动。他的公司内部的一些人认为,该品牌也应该超越野孩子的形象,变得成熟一些——让那些炒作成为过去:裸露上身的麦莉·赛勒斯(Miley Cyrus)参加由王大仁主持的布希威克仓库派对,或由R·凯利(R. Kelly)主演的广告系列,后者目前正因涉嫌诈骗和与儿童色情作品在等候审判。
        Fashion has its share of #MeToo stories, with many revolving around photographers, not necessarily designers. But some people, including Ms. Cutrone, believe that the industry, notorious for enabling bad behavior, continues to lag other industries in addressing its failings around sexual misconduct.
        时装界也不乏“#我也是”(#MeToo)事件,其中许多是围绕摄影师而不是设计师。但是,包括卡特罗恩在内的一些人认为,这个行业因助长不良行为而臭名昭著,迟迟没有正视行业内的性行为不端问题。
        “I am actually surprised at how quiet fashion continues to be in its response to so many allegations,” she said. “It’s a profession where boundaries are very blurred.” She noted that fashion brands still use vulgar sexual terms to describe certain looks, and that “people turn the other way.”
        “实际上,时尚界对如此多的指控仍然如此缄默,令我感到惊讶,”她说。“这是界限非常模糊的职业领域。”她指出,时装品牌仍然使用粗俗的性用语来形容某些外表,而“人们睁一只眼闭一只眼”。
        Retailers like Nordstrom and Net-a-Porter, which carry Alexander Wang clothes, declined to comment on their buying decisions. A spokesman for Mr. Wang’s company declined to provide any recent sales or store figures or to disclose when the next collection would be released.
        诺德斯特龙(Nordstrom)和Net-a-Porter等销售王大仁品牌的零售商对于他们的采购决定拒绝置评。王大仁公司的发言人拒绝提供任何近期的销售或店铺数据,也拒绝透露下一个时装系列将在何时发布。
        For years, high-profile luxury brands have frequently had to address misconduct and offensive behavior by their designers and owners, like racism at Gucci and Dolce & Gabbana, or an anti-Semitic rant by the designer John Galliano. So far, the outrage that follows, stinging as it is in the moment, rarely seems to damage a company’s bottom line.
        多年来,备受瞩目的奢侈品牌经常不得不处理其设计师和所有者的不当和令人反感的行为,例如古驰和杜嘉班纳(Dolce&Gabbana)的种族主义,或设计师约翰·加里亚诺(John Galliano)的反犹言论。到目前为止,紧随其后的愤怒,尽管在当时和现在一样刺耳,似乎很少损害公司的利润。
        “Scandals can certainly uproot a brand,” said Julie Gilhart, an industry consultant and the former fashion director of Barneys New York, where she stocked Mr. Wang’s earliest designs. “That doesn’t mean they can’t be replanted.”
        “丑闻无疑能让一个品牌没落,”行业顾问朱莉·吉尔哈特(Julie Gilhart)说。她是Barneys New York前时装总监,在任时曾购入王大仁最早的设计。“这并不意味着他们不能从头再来。”
        
        
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