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阿斯图里亚斯,西班牙的“自然天堂”
A Local’s Tour of Asturias, Spain’s ‘Natural Paradise’

来源:纽约时报    2020-12-11 04:05



        At the onset of the coronavirus pandemic, with travel restrictions in place worldwide, we launched a new series — The World Through a Lens — in which photojournalists help transport you, virtually, to some of our planet’s most beautiful and intriguing places. This week, Mónica R. Goya shares a collection of images from northwest Spain.        新冠疫情之初,随着全球实施旅行限制,我们推出了一个新系列——透过镜头看世界,让摄影师们带着你虚拟体验地球上一些最美丽迷人的地方。本周,莫妮卡·R·戈雅(Mónica R. Goya)分享了一组来自西班牙西北地区的照片。
        Asturias, a region in northwest Spain that’s separated from the Castilian Plateau by the Cantabrian Mountains, is a land of contrasts. Once an industrial and mining powerhouse, the area has earned its nickname, Natural Paradise; a third of its territory is now environmentally protected.        阿斯图里亚斯(Asturias)地区位于西班牙西北部,与卡斯蒂利亚高原(Castilian Plateau)之间隔着坎塔布连山脉(Cantabrian Mountains),这是一片充满反差的土地。这里曾是工业和矿业重镇,如今已赢得了“自然天堂”的绰号;现在,这里三分之一的面积受到了环境保护。
        This year I had the chance to spend over two months there. It was a unique opportunity to rediscover my homeland after a decade spent living abroad. Asturias boasts a range of forests — oak, beech, chestnut, birch — and a mostly unspoiled coastline. Its beaches come in all sizes: a palette of turquoise blue waters surrounded by imposing cliffs and green pastures.        今年我有机会在这里住了两个多月。在国外生活十年之后,这是一次重新探索祖国的难得机会。阿斯图里亚斯拥有大片森林——橡树、山毛榉、栗树、桦树——和基本未受破坏的海岸线。它的海滩大小不一:碧蓝的海水被壮丽的悬崖和绿色的牧场所环绕。
        Traces of the region’s pastoral heritage are still visible. On a hike through chestnut woods, I spotted a corripa, a circular stone enclosure built near a tree to store its chestnuts in their burrs, a way of prolonging their shelf life.        在这一地区,田园文化遗迹仍然清晰可见。在栗树林里徒步时,我发现了一段corripa,这是建在树附近的圆形石头围墙,用于储存带着毛刺的栗子,以延长其保质期。
        The region is also dotted with hórreos, ancient wooden granaries built on stilts, and protected by heritage status since the 1970s.        还不时看到hórreos,这是一种古老的吊脚木头谷仓,自20世纪70年代以来就成为了受保护的遗产。
        And since tending the land is rooted in the soul of many locals, you’re never far from a bursting vegetable garden.        而且,因为照料这片土地已经根植于当地许多人的心灵,生机盎然的菜园随处可见。
        Asturias is home to just over a million people, half of whom live along the region’s midline, where its main three towns are: Oviedo, the capital city, which showcases immaculately preserved pre-Romanesque architecture, and the harbor towns of Gijón and Avilés.        阿斯图里亚斯的人口刚刚超过百万,其中一半生活在该地区的中线附近,这里有三个主要城镇:首府奥维埃多(Oviedo),它拥有保存完好的前罗马式建筑,以及希洪(Gijón)和阿维莱斯(Avilés)两座港口城镇。
        Somiedo, one of Asturias’ seven UNESCO biosphere reserves, is as far as it gets from the sun-drenched Spain of most people’s imagination. There, I was moved by the timeless beauty of the teitos, little thatched roof huts scattered across the emerald valleys. Often associated with the pre-Roman settlements known as castros, these traditional buildings are an important part of the culture of the Vaqueiros de Alzada, a nomadic people who practiced a transhumant lifestyle and who used to stay in the teitos while moving their cattle to the high mountain grazing pastures in the summer. Today there is an emerging movement to prevent this cultural heritage from vanishing.        作为阿斯图里亚斯的七个联合国教科文组织(UNESCO)生物圈保护区之一,索米多(Somiedo)距离大多数人的想象中阳光普照的西班牙不能再远了。在那里,我被散落在翠绿山谷中的teitos——有茅草顶的小屋——的永恒之美所感动。这些传统建筑通常与被称为castros的前罗马聚居地联系在一起,是阿尔扎达瓦奎罗斯(Vaqueiros de Alzada)文化的重要组成部分,后者是随季节迁移放牧的游牧民族,夏季他们把牛群赶到高山牧场时,就往往住在这些茅草小屋里。今天,这里出现了一场防止这种文化遗产消失的新运动。
        Western Asturias, where Cantabrian brown bears roam free, is considered the cradle of rural tourism in Spain. (The bears’ presence is on the rise, a result of conservation efforts.) There, castros abound and stone houses with slate roofs are the norm. Ancient oak forests — such as Muniellos, the largest in Spain and one of the best preserved in Europe — as well as beech and birch woods are at their prettiest in autumn, when the deciduous trees put on a show.        阿斯图里亚斯西部被认为是西班牙乡村旅游的摇篮,坎塔布里亚棕熊在这里自由出没。(棕熊的数量正在上升,这正是保护努力的结果。)在这里,castros和有石板屋顶的石屋比比皆是。古老的橡树林(比如在穆涅略[Muniellos]这个西班牙最大、欧洲保存最好的自然保护区之一),以及山毛榉和桦树林在秋天最美丽,落叶树的景致非常壮观。
        Across Spain, many areas that are partially uninhabited because of a rural exodus come back to life in the summer. On the way to my grandmother’s village, I took the slower route, visiting the charming fishing villages of Llastres, Cudillero and Luarca. I took time to reflect on the many rural Spaniards who emigrated to the Americas over a century ago — and to reflect on the legacy of the indianos, the few who made fortunes abroad and returned to their hometowns to build grandiose mansions and, sometimes, schools, thereby helping to reduce the widespread illiteracy among the rural classes into which they were born.        在西班牙各地,许多由于农村人口外流而部分无人居住的地区在夏季恢复了生机。在前往我祖母生活的村庄的路上,我选择了较慢的路程,参观了拉斯特雷斯(Llastres)、库迪列罗(Cudillero)和卢阿尔卡(Luarca)等迷人的渔村。我花时间思考了一个多世纪前移民到美洲的许多西班牙乡村居民,以及indianos留下的遗产,这些少数在国外发家致富的人回到家乡建造的恢弘大宅,有时他们还兴修学校,以帮助减少他们出生的农村阶层中普遍存在的文盲现象。
        Picos de Europa, created in 1918, is the only national park in Asturias. Its exquisite natural beauty cannot be understood apart from the shepherds who for centuries have shaped the park’s landscapes, tending their livestock and producing award-winning cheeses such as Cabrales and Gamonéu, still aged in difficult-to-access caves.        建于1918年的欧罗巴山国家公园(Picos de Europa)是阿斯图里亚斯唯一的国家公园。数百年来,牧民塑造了公园的景致,如果没有他们,就无法真正领略这里优美的自然风光,这些牧民一直在公园里照料牲畜,生产出诸如卡夫拉莱斯(Cabrales)和加莫尼(Gamonéu)等屡获殊荣的奶酪,它们今天仍然放在难以进入的洞穴中陈化。
        Around 80 percent of all Spanish cider is produced in Asturias, and sidrerías, or cider houses, are a staple in society. Local customs call for natural cider — which is traditionally poured into a wide-mouth glass from high above — to be drunk quickly, in one go. The local cuisine is hearty, the portions abundant and locals’ gluttonous reputation not unfounded.        大约80%的西班牙苹果酒产自阿斯图里亚斯,而sidrerías(苹果酒屋)则是这里必不可少的场所。当地习俗要求喝天然苹果酒——传统上是从高处往宽口玻璃杯里倒酒,而且要快速、一口气喝光。本地美食很丰盛,大份量与当地人贪嘴的名声并非毫无根据。
        Despite the never-ending engineering works to link Asturias with Madrid by high-speed rail (a project scheduled to be completed by 2010 and still underway), visitor numbers are increasing annually. Last year, a record 2.3 million visited Asturias, 82 percent of them Spanish nationals.        尽管从阿斯图里亚斯到马德里的高铁似乎永远无法完工(该项目计划于2010年完成,目前仍在进行中),但这里的游客数量每年都在增加。去年,前往阿斯图里亚斯的人数达到了创纪录的230万人,其中82%是西班牙人。
        And yet, in August, Asturias is a green oasis where I can blissfully find trails to walk in silence for hours without encountering another soul.        然而一到8月,阿斯图里亚斯就变成一片绿洲,我可以愉快地找到可以安静地走上几个小时的小径,也不会遇到其他人。
                
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