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| 双语新闻 Bilingual News | 双语对照阅读 分级系列阅读 智能辅助阅读 在线英语学习 |
| [英文] [中文] [双语对照] [双语交替] [] |
| Growing up, the chef David Kuo and his brothers played video games in a converted garage in the family’s backyard in West Covina, Calif. Just outside, luffa gourds, garlic chives, sweet potato leaves and other crops beloved in Taiwan grew in his grandmother’s vegetable garden. |
| 厨师戴维·郭在加利福尼亚州西科维纳长大，小时候他和兄弟们常在自家后院一个车库改建的房间里打电动。房外就是祖母的菜园子，里面种着丝瓜、韭菜、地瓜叶和其他台湾人喜欢吃的菜。 |
| Yet Mr. Kuo’s father would often come home late from work with a bucket of Church’s fried chicken, and they would dig in as they wrestled pixelated figures on the screen. |
| 但郭先生的父亲经常很晚才下班，他会买上一大袋教堂炸鸡带回家，他们一边打电动，一边啃炸鸡。 |
| The bony pieces were unlike the styles of fried chicken Mr. Kuo encountered at street vendor stalls on family visits to Taiwan: yan su ji, boneless popcorn chicken strewn with fried basil leaves, and da ji pai, butterflied boneless breast cutlets. Marinated in soy sauce, rice wine, often garlic and always five-spice powder, then coated with coarse sweet potato starch, fried and finished with a dusting of white pepper, Taiwanese fried chicken is typically served in paper bags, without any sauce, for easy on-the-go snacking. |
| 美国的炸鸡有骨头，与郭先生去台湾探亲时在路边摊看到的不同。台湾的炸鸡不带骨头，比如上边撒着炸罗勒叶的盐酥鸡，还有将无骨鸡胸肉拍平后炸的大鸡排。台湾的炸鸡通常先用酱油、米酒、大蒜和五香粉等佐料稍作腌制，挂上地瓜粉后油炸，最后撒上白胡椒粉，台湾炸鸡通常装在纸袋里卖，不加任何酱汁，易于边走边吃。 |
| At Mr. Kuo’s Los Angeles restaurant, Little Fatty, the poultry on the menu feels familiar, yet distinctive. In a nod to his Taiwanese roots, his American childhood and his fine-dining background, Mr. Kuo sells small, bone-in pieces of popcorn quail topped with fried basil, with spicy mayo for dipping. |
| 郭先生在洛杉矶开的Little Fatty餐厅菜单上的禽肉，给人以一种即熟悉又特别的感觉。郭先生做的盐酥鹌鹑，结合了他的台湾根源、他的美国童年，以及他的高级餐厅背景，带骨的炸鹌鹑上点缀着炸罗勒叶，用辛辣的蛋黄酱蘸着吃。 |
| “It symbolizes Taiwanese cuisine, obviously, but for me, it brings back memories,” he said. “Eating something with bones in front of the TV was the ultimate fun.” |
| “很明显，这道菜是台湾美食的象征，但对我来说，它唤起记忆，”郭先生说。“坐在电视机前吃有骨头的东西是最有趣的事情。” |
| Interest in Taiwanese cooking is surging in the United States, with cookbooks that chronicle the cuisine dotting the horizon and new shops and pop-ups opening left and right. A cultural tentpole, Taiwanese fried chicken is finding a wider audience of diners and selling out at restaurants in the process. The crispy, aromatic chicken, which often can be found popcorn-style at boba shops in the United States, is gaining its foothold in the American culinary landscape amid a fried-chicken fervor: Fast-food chains battle for the title of best crispy chicken sandwich. Korean fried chicken chains dot college campuses. Indian fried chicken sandwiches draw crowds and inspire spirited reviews in New York City. |
| 美国人对台湾美食的兴趣正在高涨，介绍台湾美食的烹饪书比比皆是，新开张的餐馆和快闪店遍地开花。作为这种美食文化支柱的台湾炸鸡正受到越来越多的食客喜爱，成为餐馆的热销菜。通常在珍珠奶茶店里能找到的那种台湾香酥鸡已在美国美食风景线上出现的炸鸡热中站稳脚跟。在这场炸鸡热中，各种风味的快餐连锁店都在争夺最佳脆皮鸡肉三明治的称号。韩式炸鸡连锁店已遍布大学校园。印度炸鸡三明治吸引了大批食客，引发了纽约市食评家的热议。 |
| Mr. Kuo is among a generation of Taiwanese American chefs who are molding this night-market fixture to fit their own upbringings and tastes. They’re tucking Taiwanese fried chicken into sandwiches and steamed buns, serving it atop sliced white bread with pickles and drenching it with sauces in acknowledgment of regional American specialties and their life experiences. |
| 郭先生是新一代台裔美国厨师的一员，他们正在用自己的成长经历和口味来改造台湾夜市上的这种标配食品，他们把台湾炸鸡塞进三明治和馒头里，放在白面包切片上，配上泡菜，浇上酱汁，认证美国的地区特色和他们生活经历的独特性。 |
| At Java Saga in Atlanta, Alvin Sun serves four different Taiwanese fried chicken sandwiches, the most popular of which is the A.B.C.: Southern-style coleslaw, sweet pickles, jalapeño-American cheese and habanero-mango sauce atop what he calls his Taiwan No. 1 fried chicken cutlet. Customers love it, whether or not they have any concept of what Taiwanese fried chicken should be. |
| 在亚特兰大的Java Saga餐馆，阿尔文·孙提供四种不同的台湾炸鸡三明治供食客选择，最受欢迎的一种叫ABC：在他称之为“台湾第一炸鸡排”的鸡排上放上青辣椒—美国奶酪和哈瓦那辣椒芒果酱，配上美国南方风味的卷心菜沙拉，还有甜醋泡黄瓜。这款三明治深受顾客的喜爱，不管他们是否知道台湾炸鸡本来的样子。 |
| “As long as they have an interest in trying it, they do seem to like it,” Mr. Sun said. |
| “只要尝一口，他们似乎就会喜欢上，”孙先生说。 |
| When he opened his restaurant in 2020, Mr. Sun was obsessed with Nashville hot chicken, sampling varieties from chains like Hattie B’s and Gus’s and watching videos on how to prepare it. Inspired by the regional specialty, Java Saga also serves a version of the No. 1 cutlet slathered in a cayenne-based “lava” sauce atop a slice of brown-sugar milk toast and sweet pickles. |
| 孙先生的餐馆2020年开业时，曾痴迷于纳什维尔的辣炸鸡，他尝了Hattie B’s和Gus’s等连锁店的各种辣炸鸡，看了许多如何制作辣炸鸡的视频。受这种地方特色美食的启发，Java Saga的菜单上还有一种用台湾第一炸鸡排做的三明治，这款涂的是用红辣椒做的“熔岩”辣酱，炸鸡排放在一片红糖牛奶吐司上，配甜醋泡黄瓜。 |
| “It’s not something you can find in Taiwan,” he said, “and some of our customers say ‘Taiwan doesn’t have this — but this is really good.’” |
| “这在台湾是吃不到的，”他说，“我们的一些客户说，‘台湾没有这个——但这个真的很好吃。’” |
| For purists, he still offers straightforward dark-meat nuggets and a breast-meat cutlet, in the styles of yan su ji and da ji pai. |
| 他仍为追求正宗的食客准备了显而易见的选择：用鸡腿肉做的香酥鸡和用鸡胸肉做的大鸡排。 |
| Java Saga’s chicken recipe is well traveled and closely guarded: Mr. Sun adapted it from the one his mother and kitchen collaborator, Amy Lee, used to prepare hundreds of pounds of yan su ji for Atlanta’s Lunar New Year festival when he was in middle school. She, in turn, had adapted the recipe from a friend who owned a fried chicken business in Taichung, Taiwan. |
| Java Saga的炸鸡做法颇有来历，而且配方严格保密：孙先生对他母亲兼厨房合作伙伴艾米·李的一个食谱进行了修改。他在亚特兰大上中学的时候，他母亲曾用那个食谱为一次农历新年的活动做了几百斤香酥鸡。而他母亲用的食谱则是从一个在台中开炸鸡店的朋友那里学来后做了一些改动而成。 |
| It may be tempting to conclude that Taiwanese fried chicken evolved from Japanese fried chicken styles like karaage and katsu, given Japan’s colonization of Taiwan from 1895 to 1945. But Taiwanese fried chicken’s history is quite contemporary, said Katy Hui-wen Hung, a co-author of “A Culinary History of Taipei.” |
| 考虑到日本曾在1895年至1945年间对台湾实行殖民统治，人们很容易认为台湾炸鸡是从日式炸鸡块(karaage)和炸鸡排(katsu)演变而来的。但据《台北烹饪史》(A Culinary History of Taipei)一书的合著者洪惠文说，台湾炸鸡的历史没有那么久远。 |
| Yan su ji dates back to the night markets of the 1970s, around the time the Taiwanese chain TKK Fried Chicken, modeled after Southern-style chicken joints, was founded. As fried chicken’s prominence in the country’s urban dining scene grew in the 1980s, American chains like KFC proliferated across Taiwan. Da ji pai didn’t become a popular street food until the 1990s. |
| 盐酥鸡的历史可以追溯到20世纪70年代的夜市，大约在那个时候，模仿美国南方风味炸鸡店的台湾连锁店顶呱呱炸鸡成立了。随着炸鸡在20世纪80年代台湾城市餐饮中的地位日益重要，像肯德基这样的美国连锁店在台湾雨后春笋般出现。大鸡排成为一种受欢迎的街头小吃是20世纪90年代的事情。 |
| “Spaghetti, fried chicken and pizza were the sort of things that young Taiwanese people go out for, like a treat,” Ms. Hung said. |
| “意大利面、炸鸡和披萨是台湾年轻人喜欢出去吃的东西，是一种享受，”洪惠文说。 |
| Traditionally, Taiwanese fried chicken is not dipped in a wet batter, and according to some Taiwanese American chefs, it’s not Taiwanese fried chicken if it’s not lightly coated with sweet-potato starch, which creates an irresistibly crackly crust. And signature to the popcorn chicken style are those deeply jade crystalline shards of fried basil that garnish the bite-size pieces. |
| 传统上，台湾炸鸡不蘸面糊，据一些台裔美国厨师称，台湾炸鸡必须拍上一层薄薄的地瓜粉，这样就会产生令人无法抗拒的脆皮。而鸡米花的特色是用油炸后如翠玉般的罗勒片装点鸡块。 |
| Many of today’s Taiwanese American chefs are eager to individualize their yan su ji and dai ji pan while evoking nostalgia for the classics. Eric Sze, the chef and an owner of 886 and WenWen in New York City, does so in a few ways. |
| 如今许多台裔美国厨师都渴望在唤起对经典的怀念同时，赋予他们的盐酥鸡和大鸡排个人特色。纽约市886餐厅和文文餐厅的主厨兼老板史官通过几种方式做到了这一点。 |
| There’s the popcorn chicken drenched in a hot-honey glaze at both restaurants, and the Notorious T.F.C. sandwich at 886: a da ji pai-style breast on a toasted sesame seed bun (inspired by the 2000 debut of a fried chicken sandwich at a Taipei McDonald’s) with pickled daikon and carrot (a hat tip to a vegetable condiment at the Vietnamese restaurant Madame Vo, in the East Village of Manhattan), and a housemade sea mountain sauce (a tomato-y condiment served with oyster omelets in Taiwan). |
| 这两家餐厅的鸡米花都浸上了一层热蜂蜜。886的劲辣鸡腿堡(The Notorious T.F.C.)是这样的：烤过的芝麻面包夹大鸡排式鸡胸肉（灵感来自2000年台北麦当劳首次推出的炸鸡三明治），配腌渍白萝卜和胡萝卜（灵感源自曼哈顿东村越南餐厅Madame Vo的调味小菜）和自制海山酱（一种番茄味的调味品，在台湾吃蚵仔煎时使用）。 |
| And then there’s the B.D.S.M. (brined, deboned, soy milk) fried chicken at WenWen, which opened in Brooklyn’s Greenpoint neighborhood in March. The elaborate sharing plate defies convention: It’s a whole young hen with its feet intact, dredged in an airy, wet batter of whipped silken tofu, soy milk and sweet potato starch that forms a brittle, light crust. The deep-fried bird is sliced into crispy strips for easy eating. |
| 还有文文的“BDSM炸鸡”（腌制[brined]、去骨[deboned]、豆浆[soy milk]），这家餐厅3月在布鲁克林的绿点区开业。精致摆放的拼盘打破传统：一只完整的小母鸡，鸡脚完好无损，通透湿润的面糊由嫩豆腐、豆浆和地瓜粉搅打而成，形成一层又脆又轻的外壳。炸鸡被切成酥脆的条状，方便食用。 |
| Mr. Sze says living in New York City has provided him endless inspiration for reimagining classics. |
| 史官说，生活在纽约为他重新构想经典作品提供了无尽的灵感。 |
| “To see the boundarylessness of cuisines and just kind of unapologetically stealing from other cultures — that’s what’s done around the world,” Mr. Sze said. |
| “看到美食无边界，以及大胆地从其他文化中偷师——这是世界的通行做法，”史官说。 |
| If anyone at his restaurants is complaining about the interpretation, it may be because they can’t get enough of it. The dish consistently sells out before 6 p.m. |
| 如果有人在他的餐厅抱怨他对美食的演绎，那可能是因为他们还不满足。这道菜总是在下午6点前售罄。 |
| Other chefs are riffing on Taiwanese fried chicken while incorporating influences from beyond the island and the United States. Before his grandfather died in 2009, Erik Bruner-Yang spent a lot of time in Taiwan visiting him, deciding then that he would become a chef. |
| 其他厨师也对台湾炸鸡进行了改良，并融合台湾以外以及美国的影响。在杨震宇的祖父于2009年去世之前，他花了很多时间在台湾探望他，然后决定成为一名厨师。 |
| “I’m in my early 20s and I realize, I’m half-Asian and a military brat, and I had this weird self crisis,” Mr. Bruner-Yang said. “What part of my culture is important to me? I began using cooking as a way to figure it out.” |
| “我才20岁出头，我意识到，我是半个亚裔，是军属，我有过这种奇怪的自我危机感，”杨震宇说。“对我具有重要意义的，究竟是我身上的哪一部分文化？我开始用烹饪来解决这个问题。” |
| At Maketto, his restaurant and cafe in Washington, D.C., Mr. Bruner-Yang wanted to reflect his background and his wife’s Cambodian heritage throughout the menu. Fish sauce is added to the five-spice-infused mala caramel that liberally coats a large piece of fried, butterflied chicken breast. The dish is served with toasted points of white bread in homage to the restaurant’s former neighbor, the revered fish fry Horace & Dickie’s. |
| 在杨震宇位于华盛顿特区的集市(Maketto)餐厅和咖啡馆，他希望在菜单中体现他的文化背景和他妻子的柬埔寨文化传统。加了五香粉的马拉焦糖添加了鱼露，厚厚地涂在一大块油炸的蝴蝶鸡胸肉上。这道菜配有烤三角白面包，以向餐厅以前的邻居、口碑载道的霍勒斯和迪基炸鱼店致敬。 |
| “At first the dish was called Taiwanese fried chicken,” Mr. Bruner-Yang said. “Now it’s just called Maketto fried chicken.” |
| “起初，这道菜叫台湾炸鸡，”杨震宇说。“现在就叫集市炸鸡。” |
| This moment is especially meaningful to chefs like Katie Liu-Sung, who has been cooking professionally since she was 16. Her first job was at a Church’s Chicken in Taichung, Taiwan, where she lived after spending her early childhood in Southern California. The Texas-born fried chicken chain had locations throughout Taiwan in the 1980s and ’90s, and she worked at a couple of them over the years, following their formulas for frying chicken and baking biscuits. |
| 这样的时刻对于凯蒂·宋柳(Katie Liu Sung)这样的厨师来说有特别的意义，她从16岁起就从事专业烹饪。她在南加州度过了童年时光后住在台湾，第一份工作是在台中的教堂炸鸡店。这家起源于得克萨斯州的炸鸡连锁店在1980年代和1990年代在台湾各地都有分店，多年来，她在其中几家店工作，遵循他们的炸鸡和烤饼干配方。 |
| Ms. Liu-Sung is now the chef and owner of Chewology, a Taiwanese restaurant in Kansas City, Mo., that serves a classic rendition of popcorn chicken, as well as a steamed bun sandwich with Taiwanese fried chicken, cucumber pickles and chile mayo. |
| 宋女士现在是密苏里州堪萨斯城一家台湾餐厅Chewology的厨师和老板，该餐厅提供经典的鸡米花，以及夹着台湾炸鸡、黄瓜泡菜和辣味蛋黄酱的刈包。 |
| “There’s no limitation to what we have to push out on the menu, and that is becoming a really inspiring thing,” Ms. Liu-Sung said. “If people are really accepting of that here, I think it’s really beautiful.” |
| “我们对菜单上的菜品不设限，这正成为一件非常鼓舞人心的事情，”宋女士说。“如果这里的人真的接受，我觉得真的很美妙。” |
| One night this year, a woman walked into the restaurant and began tearing up. The smell of freshly fried Taiwanese fried chicken permeating the room made her emotional, she told Ms. Liu-Sung. |
| 今年的某个晚上，一个女子眼泪汪汪地走进餐厅。她告诉宋女士，餐厅里弥漫着新鲜出炉的台湾炸鸡的香味，让她情绪激动。 |
| “Because it reminded her of home.” |
| “因为那让她想家了。” |
| Recipe: Taiwanese Popcorn Chicken With Fried Basil |
| 食谱：台湾鸡米花配炸罗勒 |
| And to Drink … |
| 配酒 |
| Few things go better with fried chicken than Champagne or a sparkling facsimile. That goes even for this dish, flavored with five-spice powder and soy. The frying supersedes the flavoring. See for yourself. Or try a good cava or crémant. Not in the mood for sparkling wine? Riesling would go beautifully, whether dry or a moderately sweet example like a kabinett or spätlese from Germany. Other white wines like chenin blanc or sauvignon blanc would be delicious, as would Chablis or a Mâconnais white. A dry rosé would work well. If you prefer a red, look for something fresh, with few tannins and little oak influence. It could be Beaujolais, or maybe a new-wave garnacha from Spain or a wine from the Cahors vanguard. ERIC ASIMOV |
| 没有什么比香槟或起泡酒更适合搭配炸鸡了。用五香粉和酱油调味的这道菜也是如此。油炸的香味胜过了调料味。亲自体验一下吧。或者试试优质的卡瓦酒或克雷芒气泡酒。如果不想喝气泡酒怎么办？雷司令是个极佳搭配，无论是干红还是像德国的kabinett或spätlese这样的中等甜度。如白诗南、长相思、沙布利或马孔等白葡萄酒也很美味。干桃红葡萄酒也不错。如果你喜欢红酒，找一瓶口感清爽、单宁少、橡木味少的东西。博若莱就可以，或者西班牙格那希的新浪潮或卡奥尔的先锋葡萄酒。（埃里克·阿西莫夫，品酒师） |
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