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| BEIJING — Beneath a curving concrete overpass, behind a wall of green fencing, surrounded by the roar of traffic, a swimming hole beckons in the heart of Beijing. |
| 北京——在弯曲的混凝土立交桥下，喧嚣的车流之中，一堵绿色围栏背后，一个游泳之所在北京市中心召唤着人们。 |
| The water, a slim current running along Beijing’s often-congested innermost ring road, may not look like an ideal spot for a dip. Vaguely oily-looking algae drifts on its surface. In places, it is a bit pungent. |
| 这是一条细长的水流，在北京通常极为拥堵的最内层环路旁边，看起来不像是一个理想的游泳地点。水面上漂浮着隐约可见黏滑的藻类。一些地方气味有点刺鼻。 |
| But for those in the know, it’s an oasis. |
| 但对内行来说，这里是一片绿洲。 |
| The shore is lined with willows, and a concrete ledge doubles conveniently as a diving platform. And some regulars have made the hideaway their own: They have set up chairs, a cream pleather couch and even a makeshift shower station of plastic water jugs strapped to the beam of a shed. |
| 岸边种着一排柳树，一个混凝土平台正好可以当跳台用。一些常客把这个隐秘的地方变成了自己的家园：他们摆上了椅子、一个奶油色的人造革沙发，甚至还搭起棚子，在横梁上绑上塑料水壶，作为临时的淋浴点。 |
| Every day, from early morning until dark, two dozen or so people filter in and out of this unlikely retreat, one of several destinations for what is sometimes locally called “wild swimming.” They sunbathe, gossip, eat takeout — and, of course, swim. The bravest arrive year-round, even when Beijing temperatures plunge below freezing, with knives for breaking up the ice. |
| 每天从早到晚，有20多人会进出这个意想不到的世外桃源，这里是一些当地人称为“野泳”的几个地点之一。他们在这里晒日光浴、聊八卦、吃外卖——当然，还游泳。最勇敢的人一年四季都在这里，即使在北京气温骤降至冰点以下的时候，也会带着破冰的刀子前来。 |
| The crowd is mostly older, mostly male. But this being the wild, anyone can join. |
| 大多是老年人，且大部分是男性。但由于是野外，任何人都可以加入。 |
| “There’s no ‘allowed’ or ‘not allowed.’ There are no bricks or stairs. But if you have abilities like the Monkey King, then you just go on down,” said Zhang Xiaojie, a retiree in her 60s, referring to the mythical Chinese simian hero — and to the precarious approach to the water. |
| “没什么可以不可以，反正也没有砖头也没有台阶，你有孙悟空的本事就下去游了呗，”60多岁的退休老人张晓杰的话语中提到了中国神话中的猴王孙悟空——以及下水的危险。 |
| Beijing, this sprawling, concrete, highly regulated metropolis, is not exactly known for natural refuges, nor for the kind of rule-bending that takes place in them. The policies around swimming in the city’s waterways are fuzzy, when there are not outright bans. But these swimming holes have been fixtures of city life for decades, thanks in large part to the longtime Beijingers who just won’t be kept away. |
| 在北京这座高度管制的混凝土大都市中并没有太多自然的避世之地，发生在这些地方的这种擦边球行为也不多。在没有完全禁止的情况下，有关在城市水域游泳的政策是模糊的。但是几十年来，这些游泳场所一直是城市生活的一部分，这在很大程度上是由于那些长期在北京生活的人，他们不愿意离开。 |
| And during the coronavirus pandemic, as the government has imposed control after social distancing control, they have become even more of a sanctuary. Indoor pools were closed for weeks amid a new flare-up of infections in Beijing last month. Though now reopened, many have maintained restrictions. |
| 在新冠病毒大流行期间，随着政府实施一个又一个社交距离控制，这里就更有避世的味道了。上个月，北京出现了新一轮感染暴发，室内游泳池被关闭数周。虽然现在已经重新开放，但许多地方仍然保持限制。 |
| Technically, rivers were supposed to be off-limits, too — hence the green fencing, which was erected during the new outbreak and remained in place even as cases fell. But you wouldn’t know it from the crowd. |
| 严格来说，河流也应该是禁区——因此，在新的疫情暴发期间，这里竖起了绿色围栏，即使病例减少了，它仍然留在那里。但是人们不理会它。 |
| “If the conditions don’t exist, then you create the conditions,” said Ms. Zhang, who was volunteering on a hot Monday afternoon as a swim coach for her 8-year-old grandson and several of his friends. |
| “没有条件创造条件也要上，”张晓杰说，一个炎热的周一下午，她志愿为八岁的孙子和他的几个朋友担任游泳教练。 |
| Before the pandemic, many Beijing parents would have hesitated to allow their children to swim outdoors, worrying that the water was dirty, she said. But the pool closures had left no other options, and Ms. Zhang said she was glad that more children could now experience what she had when she was growing up in the capital. |
| 她说，在疫情暴发前，许多北京家长都不愿让孩子在户外游泳，担心水很脏。但游泳池的关闭让他们别无选择，张晓杰说，她很高兴现在有更多的孩子可以体验她从小在首都长大的经历。 |
| Stopwatch in hand, between barked orders — “Six laps! Head underwater, no cheating” — Ms. Zhang rattled off the virtues: It was free, there were no set hours and swimming under a roof felt oppressive. |
| 张晓杰手拿着秒表，大声发号施令——“六圈！头进水，不许作弊。”——她说了室外游泳的一堆好处：免费，不限时间，在室内游泳感觉很压抑。 |
| Open water has always been a precious, and contested, commodity in landlocked Beijing, which, until the 1930s, had only three swimming pools. |
| 在内陆城市北京，开阔水域一直是一种珍贵的、需要争夺的东西，直到1930年代北京也才只有三个游泳池。 |
| In the mid-20th century, an official water treatment campaign led to the creation of several “open-air swimming pools,” some in city lakes. But rapid development, as well as safety and hygiene concerns, eventually led to their closures. In 2003, the parks department officially prohibited swimming in non-designated areas, though even officials aren’t always sure where it’s OK and where it’s not. |
| 在20世纪中期，政府的一场水治理行动带来了几个“露天游泳池”，其中一些建在城市的湖泊里。但快速的发展，以及安全和卫生方面的问题最终导致它们被关闭。2003年，公园管理部门正式禁止在非指定区域游泳，尽管官员们有时也不确定哪里可以游泳，哪里不可以。 |
| State-owned media outlets regularly print articles warning about the danger of drowning, and there are several deaths each year in outdoor swimming areas. Other complaints are more aesthetic: One critic told The Beijing News that swimmers “blocked the view” in parks, ruining photographs. |
| 官方媒体会定期发表文章，警告人们溺水的危险，每年都有数人在户外游泳区溺水死亡。还有其他视觉美感方面的抱怨：一位评论人士告诉《新京报》，公园里的游泳者“有碍观瞻”，拍照都得避开他们。 |
| But in this long-running battle, the swimmers have proved the more determined side. After the 2003 rule was introduced, a professor of Marxist philosophy at Minzu University in Beijing wrote an impassioned column in a local paper. |
| 但在这场旷日持久的战斗中，游泳者被证明是更坚定的一方。2003年的规定出台后，中央民族大学的一位马克思主义哲学副教授在当地一家报纸上撰写了一篇充满激情的专栏文章。 |
| “The city government has seriously infringed upon citizens’ basic right: the pursuit of happiness,” she wrote. “Everybody says that ducks swimming in a lake are beautiful. Are people swimming in a lake not beautiful? Could it be that people are not as beautiful as ducks?” |
| “市政这样做，严重侵犯了公民的基本权利：追求幸福的权利，”她写道。“大家都说鸭子在湖中游是美的，人在湖中游反倒不美？难道人不如鸭子美？” |
| The periodic dismantling by city officials of swimmers’ makeshift changing rooms and ladders has done little to keep people from coming back. Loudspeaker announcements don’t dissuade, either. |
| 城市官员定期拆除游泳者临时搭建的更衣室和梯子，这没能阻止人们回来游泳。扩音器里播放的通告也无济于事。 |
| Even as China’s hard-line virus control polices have transformed virtually every other aspect of daily life — locking residents in their homes, supercharging government surveillance, shrinking the already tiny space for dissent — the authorities seem to have had little success governing these swimming spaces. |
| 尽管中国强硬的病毒控制政策几乎改变了日常生活的方方面面——将居民封锁在家，加强政府监控，缩小原本已经很小的异见空间——但当局在管理这些游泳区方面似乎收效甚微。 |
| That may be, in part, because of the relatively low stakes of some retirees’ aquatic diversions. But it also speaks to the strength of their stubborn enthusiasm. |
| 部分原因可能是一些退休人员从事的水上娱乐活动危险性相对较低。但这也说明了他们执拗热情的力量。 |
| Along the Liangma River, which runs through one of the city’s embassy districts, officials in May erected not only fencing but also several metal screens, with signs explicitly banning swimming. But on a recent Saturday afternoon, about a dozen men were bobbing in the water. |
| 今年5月，在流经北京一个使领馆区的亮马河沿岸，官员们不仅竖起了围栏，还竖起了几块金属挡板，上面有明确的禁止游泳标志。但在最近一个周六的下午，有十几人在水中上下翻飞。 |
| One swimmer, in a silver cap, had brought a snorkel. Another wore floaties, blue on one arm, pink on the other. Several park security guards walked by but did not stop. |
| 一个戴银色泳帽的游泳者戴着呼吸管。还有一个人胳膊上有漂浮板，一边是蓝的，另一边是粉的。几名公园保安走过，但没有驻足。 |
| Farther west, at the spot beneath the overpass, swimmers have essentially incorporated the fencing there into their adventure. To get from the street to their platform, they haul themselves around the end of a makeshift wall that runs all the way to the water’s edge, momentarily dangling over the water before jumping down to the other side. |
| 在更西边的立交桥下面，游泳者把那里的围栏当成冒险活动的一部分。为了从街上去往他们的平台，他们要绕过一堵临时搭建的墙壁一端，这堵墙一直延伸到水边，他们得越过水面，才能跳到另一边。 |
| You Hui, a wiry retiree who worked in public relations, skipped that technique on his way out, opting instead to clamber directly over the top of a different section of fencing. He landed with a flourish. |
| 从事公共关系工作的退休人士由辉没有使用这种技巧，而是从另一段围墙上直接翻了过去，稳稳落地。 |
| “It’s just for fun,” he said of his day out. “There’s nothing to do staying at home.” |
| “就是玩呗，”谈到他在外面度过的这一天，他说道。“在家待着也没事。” |
| Mr. You, who said he had swum as a child at Xihai, a lake northwest of the Forbidden City, explained that different swimming holes had different reputations. This one under the overpass was for a more down-to-earth crowd, whereas Bayi Lake was where retired high-ranking officials went. Liangma River attracted foreigners. |
| 由辉说，他小时候曾在紫禁城西北方向的西海游泳。他说，不同的游泳点名声也不一样。立交桥下面这个湖是给普通人游的，八一湖是退休高级官员的去处。亮马河吸引了外国人。 |
| Recently, a once-rare species has appeared more frequently in and around the waterways: young people, looking for alternative activities with many of Beijing’s bars still closed and travel out of the city restricted. While some of these newcomers hit the water on stand-up paddleboards or blowup rafts, others simply revel on the sidelines, picnicking, lounging in the sun or drinking takeout cocktails. |
| 最近，一个一度稀有的“物种”也出现了，在北京的许多酒吧仍然关闭、外出受到限制的情况下，越来越多的年轻人出现在水道及其周围，寻找其他可以参与的活动。这些新来者当中，有人乘着站立式桨板或坐着充气筏子下水，也有人只在水边放松，野餐，懒洋洋地躺在阳光下或者喝外卖鸡尾酒。 |
| Some of the swimming regulars, like Ms. Zhang, said they hoped more young people would be converted. A few old-timers lamented that those new to the scene would never know how much better it was in their younger days, when Beijing was less regulated, less commercialized. |
| 张晓杰这样的游泳常客说，希望更多的年轻人能够转变观念。一些老前辈哀叹说，那些新来的人永远不会知道他们年轻的时候这里有多好，那时候北京没什么管制，也不怎么商业化。 |
| Key Guan, an office worker in his 30s, was inflating a kayak on a Tuesday afternoon, a little way down from the swimmers. Normally, work was too busy, and on weekends he would go to bigger rivers on the city outskirts, but with working from home encouraged because of Covid, he decided he could sneak in a shorter outing. |
| 基·关（音）是一名30多岁的上班族，周二下午，他在游泳者的下游找了个地方给皮艇充气。他平时工作很忙，只有周末才能去往城郊较大的河流，但由于新冠疫情下倡议大家在家办公，他决定溜出去进行一次短暂的郊游。 |
| That day was his first time boating inside the city center, he said, and he was still leery of the water quality. “I haven’t spent much time on the water in the city because I still don’t really trust it,” he said. But he could not deny his curiosity, after seeing so many others paddleboarding there recently: “They sucked me in.” |
| 他说，那天是他第一次在市中心划船，他对那里的水质仍然心存疑虑。“市区的河里我是没有玩过什么别的，因我是觉得这个水游泳我是不太放心的，”他说。但他无法否认自己的好奇心，因为最近看到这么多人在那里划桨板：“对，被拉入坑了。” |
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