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| The chef Tsang Chiu King is preparing a subtle-but-significant change to his menu: He’s replacing the fish in some dishes with a plant-based alternative. |
| 曾超敬大厨准备为他的菜单来一次不易察觉却意义重大的改变：他将一些菜品中的鱼换成了一种植物基替代品。 |
| “Its flavor is light and bland and the texture, like grouper, is a bit tougher,” Mr. Tsang said, referring to the alternative fish varieties he has been testing at Ming Court Wanchai, a restaurant in Hong Kong. To boost the flavor, he adds ingredients like dates and goji berries. |
| “它味道清淡，口感有点硬，像石斑鱼，”曾超敬说的是他在香港明阁（湾仔）餐厅测试的替代鱼菜品。为了增加风味，他加入了红枣枸杞等配料。 |
| “This may give our customers a new experience or surprise, and that will help our business,” he said. |
| “这也许会给我们的客人带来新体验或惊喜，让生意更兴隆，”他说。 |
| Plant-based products have been breaking into the foodie mainstream in the United States, after years in which vegan burgers and milk alternatives hovered on the market’s periphery. That is partly because more companies are targeting omnivores who seek to reduce the amount of meat they eat, rather than forswear it altogether. |
| 素食汉堡和牛奶替代品在市场边缘徘徊多年之后，植物基产品已经受到了美国美食界主流的推崇。这在一定程度上是因为越来越多的企业瞄准了那些寻求减少肉类摄入，而非完全放弃肉食的杂食顾客。 |
| Now, as sophisticated fish alternatives begin to attract investment and land at restaurants in the United States and beyond, people who track the fishless fish sector say that it could be on the cusp of significant growth. |
| 如今，随着优质的替代鱼产品开始吸引投资，并在美国等诸多国家的餐厅登堂入室，素食鱼行业的观察者表示，该行业可能即将迎来显著增长。 |
| One reason, they say, is that consumers in rich countries are becoming more aware of the seafood industry’s environmental problems, including overfishing and the health risks of some seafood. Another is that today’s plant-based start-ups do a better job of approximating fish flavor and texture than earlier ones did — an important consideration for non-vegetarians. |
| 他们表示，其中一个原因是富裕国家的消费者愈发认识到海鲜行业带来的环境问题，包括过度捕捞和一些海鲜的健康风险。还有一个原因是，如今植物基产品初创企业在仿鱼类味道和口感方面比以前的企业做得好——这对非素食者来说是个重要的考量因素。 |
| “This isn’t your grandfather’s alternative fish stick,” said Joshua Katz, an analyst at the consulting firm McKinsey who has studied the alt-protein industry. |
| “这不是你爷爷做的替代鱼柳，”咨询公司麦肯锡研究替代蛋白质产业的分析师约书亚·卡茨说道。 |
| “There are a number of people already looking at alternative hamburgers,” he added. “You might actually say, ‘I should work on something else,’ and seafood is still a massive market with compelling reasons to work on it.” |
| “已经有很多人在关注替代汉堡了，”他补充道。“你可能会说，‘我应该研究点别的’，海鲜仍然是个巨大的市场，有充足的理由对它进行研究。” |
| ‘Smarter’ seafood |
| “更聪明”的海鲜 |
| People who scale back their consumption of animal proteins for environmental reasons often stop eating red meat, which requires enormous amounts of land and water to cultivate and belches a lot of methane as a byproduct. |
| 出于环境原因而减少动物蛋白摄入的人通常会停止食用红肉，因为红肉需要耗费大量的土地和水资源，同时还存在产生大量甲烷的副作用。 |
| But alt-fish advocates say that seafood also comes with environmental problems. Unsustainable fishing practices have decimated fisheries in recent decades, a problem both for biodiversity and the millions of people who depend on the sea for income and food. |
| 但替代鱼产品的倡导者表示，海鲜也会造成环境问题。近几十年来，不可持续的捕捞行为严重破坏了渔业，不仅损害了生物多样性，也影响了成百上千万依靠海洋获取收入和食物的人。 |
| “It’s simply a smarter way to make seafood,” said Mirte Gosker, the acting managing director of the Good Food Institute Asia Pacific, a nonprofit advocacy group that promotes alternative proteins. “Full stop.” |
| 旨在推广替代蛋白的非营利组织好食亚太研究所的代理总经理默特尔·戈斯克表示，“这只是一种更聪明的制作海鲜的办法，就是这样。” |
| So far plant-based seafood products in the United States account for only 0.1 percent of the country’s seafood sales, less than the 1.4 percent of the U.S. meat market occupied by plant-based meat alternatives, according to the Good Food Institute. |
| 据好食研究所统计，到目前为止，植物基海鲜在美国海鲜销售中的占比仅为0.1%，还不及植物基肉类在美国肉类市场中所占的1.4%比重。 |
| But alt-seafood ventures worldwide received at least $83 million from investors in 2020, compared with $1 million three years earlier, according to the institute’s data. As of this June, 83 companies were producing alt-seafood products around the world, a nearly threefold rise since 2017. |
| 但该研究所的数据显示，2020年，全球替代海鲜企业从投资者那里至少获得了8300万美元，而三年前这一数字为100万美元。截止今年6月，全球有83家企业在制作替代海鲜，较2017年增长近三倍。 |
| All but 18 of those 83 companies focus on plant-based products. Six others, including a French start-up that makes smoked salmon from microalgae, specialize in proteins derived from fermentation. A dozen others are developing lab-grown seafood, which is not yet commercially available in any country. |
| 在这83家企业中，除了18家之外，其余都专注于植物基产品。另外六家，包括一家用微藻制作烟熏三文鱼的法国初创企业，专攻通过发酵产生的蛋白质。还有十几家企业正在研发实验室人造海鲜，这些海鲜目前还没有在任何国家上市销售。 |
| Plant-based moves |
| 植物基的变化 |
| Impossible Foods, a dominant force in the alternative protein industry, has been developing a fishless fish project for years. Jessica Appel, a spokeswoman for company, said that it was not yet manufacturing alternative fish products. |
| Impossible Foods公司是替代蛋白行业的主导力量，多年来一直在研发素食鱼项目。公司发言人杰西卡·阿佩尔表示，它尚未生产出替代鱼产品。 |
| Other big companies are. The California seafood giant Bumble Bee Foods, for instance, said last year that it was partnering with Good Catch, a plant-based seafood company in Pennsylvania that sells products like fake fish sticks and crab cakes at Whole Foods and other retailers. |
| 其他大企业也是如此。例如加州海鲜巨头Bumble Bee Foods公司去年表示，它正在与宾夕法尼亚州的植物基海鲜公司Good Catch合作，后者在全食超市等零售商销售素鱼柳和蟹饼等产品。 |
| Some start-ups are developing alternative fish protein designed to mimic raw fish. One of them, Kuleana, sells a plant-based version of sushi-grade tuna at markets in Los Angeles and nationally through the Poké Bar restaurant chain. |
| 一些初创企业正在研发仿鱼生的替代鱼蛋白。其中一家名为Kuleana的公司通过Poké Bar连锁餐厅在洛杉矶当地和全美范围内售卖一种植物基的寿司级金枪鱼。 |
| Even though breaded fake fish sticks have done well so far, products that try to approximate raw fish will need to improve further if the industry wants to woo non-vegetarians, said Jacek Prus, Kuleana’s chief executive. |
| Kuleana的首席执行官杰克·普鲁斯表示，尽管裹着面包糠的素鱼柳迄今为止销量还不错，但如果这个行业想要吸引非素食者，还得进一步改进仿鱼生产品。 |
| “Fundamentally we still need to make the product better,” he said. “That’s the biggest challenge: How to recreate structure in really, really convincing ways, and mouth feel?” |
| “从根本上说，我们仍然需要改进产品，”他说。“最大的挑战在于：如何以真正令人信服的方式再现食物的结构和口感？” |
| Eyes on Asia |
| 聚焦亚洲 |
| Of the 65 companies currently producing plant-based seafood products, 47 are outside the United States, according to the Good Food Institute. People in the industry say the Asia Pacific region is a logical place to anticipate significant growth because it already consumes more than two-thirds of the world’s fish, according to a United Nations estimate. |
| 根据好食研究所的数据，在目前生产植物基海鲜产品的65家企业中，有47家都不在美国。业内人士表示，预期出现合理大幅增长的地区会是亚太，因为据联合国估计，该地区已经消耗了全世界超过三分之二的鱼类。 |
| Thai Union, one of the world’s largest processors of conventional canned tuna, said in March that it had created OMG Meat, an alt-protein brand targeting “flexitarians” who want to reduce their carbon footprint. And the start-up New Singularity has been selling algae-based, fermented alt-fish products since last year in mainland China. |
| 全球最大的传统金枪鱼罐头加工商之一泰万盛在3月表示，该集团打造出替代蛋白品牌OMG Meat，其目标人群就是希望减少碳足迹的“弹性素食者”。初创公司New Singularity从去年开始在中国大陆销售藻基发酵替代鱼产品。 |
| In Hong Kong, the company Green Monday has been rolling out alternative fish at several venues since June. That will soon includes Ming Court Wanchai, where Mr. Tsang is creating a dish that flavors fake grouper with his kung pao sauce. |
| 在香港，绿色星期一公司自6月以来就在好几个地方开始销售替代鱼产品。这很快就将包括明阁，曾超敬正在该餐厅创作一道用宫保酱调味的素石斑鱼料理。 |
| Green Monday sells its fake pork brand, OmniPork, at roughly 40,000 places around the world, including in Britain, the United States and most of the Asia Pacific region. David Yeung, the company’s chief executive, said that he expected OmniSeafood to be in most, if not all, of the same markets within six months. |
| 绿色星期一的素猪肉品牌OmniPork已经销往全球约四万家商户，包括英国、美国和大部分亚太地区。该公司的首席执行官杨大伟表示，他预计OmniSeafood品牌将在未来六个月成功打入上述的大部分（如果不是全部）市场。 |
| Mr. Yeung said his company designed its fake fish products to cater to various tastes and cooking methods. Americans like to grill or pan-fry fish, for example, while people in China often boil it in a hot pot. |
| 杨大伟说，他的公司设计的素鱼产品迎合了各色口味和烹饪方法。例如美国人喜欢烤鱼或煎鱼，而中国人则经常涮火锅。 |
| “You cannot tell consumers that you can only fry but you cannot steam, or you can only steam but you cannot put in a hot pot,” he said. “You cannot do that because to them, fish is fish.” |
| “你不能对消费者说只能煎而不能蒸，或者是只能蒸却不能下火锅，”他说。“你不能那样做，因为对他们来说，鱼就是鱼。” |
| A lab-grown future? |
| 实验室培育的未来？ |
| The next frontier is lab-grown seafood, in which edible products are grown from real cells in a lab. That technology is still a ways off from retail sales and broad commercialization, though perhaps not as far as many consumers would assume. |
| 下一个前沿领域就是实验室人造海鲜，让实验室里真正的细胞培育出可食用产品。这项技术距离上市零售和大规模商业化还有很长的路要走，但可能也没有许多消费者想像的那么遥远。 |
| So far the only company selling cultivated protein of any kind is Eat Just, a San Francisco start-up whose cultured chicken nuggets were approved for sale in Singapore late last year. The city-state’s Food Agency said in a brief statement that it had not yet approved “any other cultured meat products.” |
| 目前唯一一家销售培养蛋白质的公司，是位于旧金山的初创企业Eat Just，该公司推出的人造鸡块去年获准在新加坡销售。新加坡食品局在一份简短的声明中表示，尚未批准“其他任何人造肉类产品”上市。 |
| Ms. Gosker of the Good Food Institute said that more cultivated protein start-ups could receive regulatory approval later this year in the United States. The Food and Drug Administration said last October that products containing cultured seafood cells “may soon enter the U.S. marketplace.” |
| 好食研究所的戈斯克表示，今年年底，美国可能会有更多培养蛋白质的初创企业得到监管部门的批准。美国食品药品监督管理局去年10月曾表示，含有培养海鲜细胞的产品“可能很快就会进入美国市场”。 |
| At least two cultivated fish companies in California — BlueNalu of San Diego and Wildtype of San Francisco — have already announced plans to start selling commercially in the near future. Shiok Meats, a cell-based meat and seafood company in Singapore, has also said that it plans to “commercialize” next year. |
| 加州至少有两家生产培养鱼的企业——圣地亚哥的BlueNalu和旧金山的Wildtype——已经宣布，计划在不久的将来开始商业化销售。新加坡一家以细胞培育为基础的肉类海鲜公司Shiok Meats也声称，计划在明年实现“商业化”运作。 |
| Frea Mehta, a scientist in Germany who specializes in cellular agriculture, said that whatever cultivated seafood hits the market would almost certainly be a hybrid of lab-grown and plant-based technologies. That is because companies will need to encase cells in a plant-based “scaffolding” to give them structure, at least until the science of cellular agriculture improves. |
| 研究细胞农业的德国科学家弗拉·梅塔称，无论哪种培养海鲜进入市场，基本上肯定都是实验室培育和植物基技术的混合物。这是因为至少在细胞农业科学取得进步之前，企业都必须将细胞包裹在植物基的“支架”之中，为其提供结构。 |
| Ms. Mehta, who works for the cultivated seafood company Bluu Biosciences, said one challenge to developing lab-grown seafood products was that scientists generally don’t know as much about marine species as they do about mammals. |
| 梅塔供职于栽培海鲜公司Bluu Biosciences，她说，实验室培养海鲜在研发上的一个挑战是，科学家对海洋物种的了解通常不如对哺乳动物的了解多。 |
| It won’t help, she added, that animals defined as “seafood” are often far away from one another in the classification system for organisms. That means it would be a challenge to switch from producing cell-based fish to, say, lobster, a marine invertebrate. |
| 她还表示，在生物分类体系中，被定义为“海产品”的动物相互之间往往有天壤之别，这个事实也增加了麻烦。这意味着从制造细胞鱼转向制造某种无脊椎海洋动物（比如龙虾）将是个挑战。 |
| “From a cuisine perspective it makes sense,” she said. “From a biological perspective, it doesn’t at all because they are wildly, wildly different.” |
| “从美食的角度看，这是合理的，”她说。“但从生物学的角度看则完全不然，因为它们真的太不一样了。” |
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